Schiaparelli Haute Couture F/W 2025.26 Paris

[svpernova]

Love this collection, one of my favorite so far, especially the first look and Consani's dress. I also do love that it's all black, or in limited shades of gray, since black is such a luxurious and elegant color. It provides statement. He's one of the few people whom we can call a worthy couturier in 2025, and I think he has improved.

 

[fashionlov]

Small consideration: Adut Akech is returning to the catwalks on a regular basis, but nobody is talking about it. Not that I mind or that it's necessary, but she's gone completely unnoticed.

 

[Lola701]

Small consideration: Adut Akech is returning to the catwalks on a regular basis, but nobody is talking about it. Not that I mind or that it's necessary, but she's gone completely unnoticed.

Nobody really created « a moment » for her either. No opening or closing.
She is sneaked between looks…

 

[KilltheLook]

It's a beautiful collection, but I still like his F/W2025 RTW one more (Lone Star). This one reads a bit too dusty and not fresh. It's lighter than his usual things for sure but it's a bit tame.

 

[fruitdots]

I'll never warm to his Schiaparelli; it's always so heavy-handed and without charm. Makes sense that Lauren Sanchez wore it to marry Jeff Bezos, and looked like an over-squeezed tube of toothpaste.

 

[Squizree]

Although I prefer his last HC collection, I love knowing that he has the flexibility to swing from the ostentatious highs of last season to the more streamlined silhouettes and embroidery of this collection. I do agree that more color would have really cinched this collection a bit better but a fantastic display nonetheless.

 

[GivenchyHomme]

Would it be totally unhinged to say this feels like Balenciaga during the Alexander Wang era? It’s simplistic, yet It lacks refinement. I don’t find the ideas here to be particularly interesting or original. Slip dresses and bullfighting suits? Is that the best he can do? Then there is that big ruffled coat with that technique that has been done a million times before. It’s a disappointing collection, plain and simple. He needs to shake things up and move forward with something innovative and confident. This is not it.

 

[QuantumCouture]

Bravo! First, the technical side: impeccable cuts and sewing. Look 12 is a master class in haute couture: it has surgical sewing precision and the underpinning is well executed. Weight management on beaded pieces is also comme il faut. Textures and fabrics create an optical conversation. The accessories are part of the architecture of silhouettes. The references would have delighted Elsa Schiaparelli.

 

[Monsieur Cristobal]

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I love a woman genuinely gagged and speechless at Haute Couture.

Not only Schiaparelli is having one of the best shows, they also have some of the coolest clients.

 

[Squizree]

Oh I thought she was yawning.

 

[hamburgers]

I appreciate he’s trying to get away from all the gold and entombing corsetry, but his way with silver and flou lack the same conviction

Maybe I am boring, but I find his RTW more engaging

I just wish he would work more with colour.

His use of color in his first 3 collections was so horrific I am ok with him avoiding it until he thinks he’s ready to try again lol

 

[dancv]

Love the Matador looks and the saddle corset. The polka dot and the fur lined tweed sets are lovely in it’s simplicity.

 

[Lola701]

I think it’s fantastic and quite great for him to explore a more quite, subtle side of his repertoire. It allows also to pay more attention to the details. Sometimes, the surrealists effects are on steroid but here it’s really about a woman and a dress.

Look 7 would make Azzedine proud.

 

[marines]

The LCD Soundsystem soundtrack, the makeup, the color palette, the futuristic atmosphere

 

[Snejana Onopka]

this is really nice! as other users pointed out this collection feels much lighter, subtler and not as stiff. also daniel is an amazing visual artist his drawings are stunning

its quite interesting how unmodern daniel's sensibilities are, from the presentation and fabrics to the archetypes he likes to show on the runway, almost diametrically opposed to elsa's ultramodern (even contemporain) ethos.

 

[jeanclaude]

From designing walking totems; to designing walking Christmas trees...well, that´s an improvement??

 

[LadyJunon]

this is really nice! as other users pointed out this collection feels much lighter, subtler and not as stiff. also daniel is an amazing visual artist his drawings are stunning

its quite interesting how unmodern daniel's sensibilities are, from the presentation and fabrics to the archetypes he likes to show on the runway, almost diametrically opposed to elsa's ultramodern (even contemporain) ethos.

Heavy embroidery and decoration aside, Elsa's designs were quite slick and futuristic; willowy silhoettes, bias cutting, geometric forms, sharp graphic elements. Roseberry's Schiaparelli, on the other hand, is much more precious, more baroque, but it works in the current context of how HC is perceived.

 

[Snejana Onopka]

Heavy embroidery and decoration aside, Elsa's designs were quite slick and futuristic; willowy silhoettes, bias cutting, geometric forms, sharp graphic elements. Roseberry's Schiaparelli, on the other hand, is much more precious, more baroque, but it works in the current context of how HC is perceived.

exactly!! not only her silhouettes but also her way of thinking about garments/fashion were very futuristic. as you said daniel's approach is precious but it definitely works, even if his ethos is more Gaultier/montana/mugler than elsa at least he knows and respects his clientele.

maybe this futurism is what makes it hard to design for a house like schiaparelli, her innovations are so well incorporated into contemporary fashion that most people won't associate them with elsa. daniel's strategy of presenting this mainstream kinda of old fashioned idea of what HC is, is what makes his output work so well + it looks nice on an instagram feed

 

[Cocteau Stone]

I still can’t get behind his Schiaparelli. It’s very marketable to the audience of now, but it’s all just so heavy handed and stiff. Yeah it’s lighter than seasons prior, but marginally so.

Main issue is how afraid he is of colour. He isn’t much of a colourist of course (we’ve seen his attempts), it’s just Schiaparelli has an archive that is so vibrant and taste challenging. Not just with the fabrics alone, but with her combinations. He’s just not very sensual or evocative.

Who am I to judge though. He’s there and I’m here. Just get sick of his ways of ornamenting the body rather than actually dressing it.

 

[Frida]