Will His Singularity Lead to Pluralism?
By
GUY TREBAY
Published: September 11, 2008
“When I was growing up, people called me Powder and White-out,” Shaun Ross said the other day. “They called me other names you wouldn’t want to hear.”
Standing backstage before the Patrik Ervell men’s wear show, held on Pier 59 at the start of
Fashion Week, Mr. Ross seemed jittery. If he was less self-consciously blasé than the other models in the show, all of whom had perfected the obligatory model slouch and “What, me sexy?” yawn, he had reason.
At 17 and as an African-American, Mr. Ross is already a rare enough commodity in the business. But with his pale skin and light green eyes and with hair a color his agency describes as “brond,” he is decidedly singular. It is possible Mr. Ross is not the first male fashion model with albinism, but he is the sole example that even those with long memories of the industry recall.
“It’s tricky and loaded to talk about human beings and talk about rarity,” Mr. Ervell said when asked how he had happened to cast Mr. Ross, a virtual unknown, for his show. “It sounds silly, but he is about rarity. He looks unique.”
Shaun Ross is not unique, of course; albinism, a genetic condition that impairs normal pigmentation, affects about one in 17,000 in the United States. In some parts of the world, albinos are persecuted as witches, regarded as having magical powers, murdered for their body parts or done in at birth. In the West they are treated mostly as oddities.
“As a kid, he was called Casper a lot,” said Mr. Ross’s mother, Geraldine.
Several celebrated figures, including the musicians Johnny and Edgar Winter and Salif Keita, are albino, but there had been only one model: the Hong Kong-born Connie Chiu. Now there is Mr. Ross.
“I’m the first, or anyway the only man, in the industry, and it feels good,” said Mr. Ross, who grew up in the Bronx and lives in upstate New York and who, until modeling fell into his lap, was more focused on a career in modern dance.
It perhaps says as much about shifts in a business often criticized for a lack of diversity as about Mr. Ross’s special qualities that he was discovered (as everyone seems to be these days) in a YouTube video, then quickly picked up by Djamee, a boutique modeling agency, and cast in short order for pictorials in magazines like Trace, Another Magazine and in an ad campaign for Gap.
If a glimmer of real change was seen during Fashion Week, it was in the increased chromatic diversity of the runways. Where once one saw only the wan obligatory Olgas and Mashas from countries in Eastern Europe, there are now plenty of Asian giantesses like Hye Park and black beauties like Nana Keita and full-lipped Latinas like Arlenis Sosa and South Asians like Lakshmi Menon and Brazilians representing the depth of that country’s gene pool (and not just the southern regions where German ancestry dominates).
There are male models, too, like Dominique Hollington, Shawn Sutton and Salieu Jalloh, who is surely the first in the business from Sierra Leone.
“Little by little, it’s changing,” said Bethann Hardison, a model agent and a seasoned advocate for diversity in fashion. “The business was dry as a desert for a decade, and now you have
Thom Browne, who makes clothes for skinny white boys, putting a very dark-skinned black boy in a show. That says a lot.”
Not everyone in the business shares Ms. Hardison’s optimism.
“We’re still stuck in tokenism,” said George Brown, an owner of Red NYC, an agency whose roster is filled with models of the moment. “I thought this season, with Italian Vogue, we would see a more dramatic uptick,” he added, referring to the July issue of the magazine, which featured only black models. “It didn’t bear fruit.”
Modeling is still “stuck in novelty mode,” Mr. Brown said. Casting agents want “one model that’s really dark skinned or else really mixed and light.”
Or else, perhaps, they want a black man whose skin is white.
“Somebody gave me this name, trailblazer,” Mr. Ross remarked this week. “At first I was like, ‘What is that?’ Then I learned it means someone who goes first and makes a path. So now I’m getting used to that idea.”
NyTimes