LVMH Sells Lacroix
Monday, January 10, 2005
LVMH Nears Lacroix Sale
By Miles Socha
PARIS — LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton is no longer going for baroque.
Christian Lacroix confirmed Friday that Bernard Arnault, who launched the designer to stardom by setting up a couture house just for him in 1987, is in talks to off-load it to Falic Group, the Florida-based travel retail firm.
Simon Falic, chairman of the Florida-based Falic, stated, “We are in final negotiations to acquire the entire brand.”
The designer himself, meanwhile, said that, while he is not party to LVMH’s negotiations, he is hardly opposed to having new owners as he has been increasingly vocal about lackluster development at his fashion house.
“I’m still very confident in the future, with these people or whoever else,” Lacroix said Friday. “Before that, I want to finish my couture collection [to be shown on Jan. 25] because it’s my best answer.”
LVMH declined comment on any deal, but Falic said the company met with the workers’ association at Lacroix last week. He added that “we would continue to respect all licensing agreements,”
Miami-based Falic Group is best known for its Duty Free Americas chain of 90 duty-free, news and gift stores in U.S. airports and along the U.S. borders with Canada and Mexico.
Lacroix fits the travel retail operator’s strategy of acquiring high-end brands, Falic noted, adding that this would be the third beauty brand acquired by the group. Previous acquisitions include the Hard Candy and Urban Decay cosmetics lines. Those two California-based upstart indy brands also were acquired from LVMH in December 2003.
It is believed that Falic would maintain Lacroix’s money-losing, but critically acclaimed, couture business — and his design services.
It also is understood that Lacroix would continue to work for LVMH as ready-to-wear designer for Emilio Pucci. He joined Pucci in 2002 and, while his contract there is said to be up for renewal later this year, he has given the label fresh buzz and currency.
Lacroix characterized his work at Pucci as giving him “a second breath.”
Should a deal be reached, Lacroix might not be the last of LVMH’s brands to go. Thomas Pink, which the French luxury group bought in 1999, has been on the block for some time, and sources suggested Arnault might be willing to part with Givenchy, Kenzo, Guerlain or Donna Karan — if the price is right. Arnault also has described DFS and Sephora as “noncore.”
“I am very confident, very serene. I am very open-minded, and why not [sell Lacroix] if they [LVMH] don’t know how to manage the future of the house?” Lacroix said in an interview. “I want to find the right formula, the right everything for the house of Lacroix.”
In an interview last March, Lacroix blasted LVMH for its one-size-fits-all approach to the fashion business, a lack of funding and for misuse of his name.
At the time, Lacroix also complained about having to forego the ready-to-wear runway for three seasons because of financial constraints and expressed embarrassment that LVMH, without his consent, lent his name for Schwarzkopf home hair coloring in “couture” shades.
“I’m not against success made without me,” he said last year. “But I’m sorry — we have to focus on one image, which is mine. I’m interested in designing a fragrance bottle for my next perfume.”
Lacroix’s rich vision has not been easy to translate into commercial success and it is believed the house has yet to generate profits.
Lacroix has contracted his services to LVMH since 1999 via his design firm, XCLX, whose client list spans opera companies, France’s high-speed train operator and a Paris hotelier, which, last week, opened the first of four Lacroix-designed inns.
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