excellent new article on the recent overflow of celebrity designers, posted at The Guardian of today
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First it was Madonna, now it's Kate Moss, next week it's Lily Allen - celebrity fashion collections are the style story of the summer. But will wearing them make you look like a star ... or a tragic wannabe? Three writers find out.
Wednesday May 2, 2007
The Guardian
As chance would have it, my day as Kate Moss started by me going on the Today programme to talk about Kate Moss. There are so many postmodern layers to this scenario I hardly know where to begin, which is just as well, as I don't imagine Kate fusses too much about postmodern layers. I reckoned the poppy print summer dress was the best Kate outfit for the occasion - probably better than the denim hotpants that might have thrown John Humphrys off his rhythm, thereby knocking large swaths of middle-class Britain off kilter. Such concern was unnecessary, however, because it was Ed Stourton, not Humphrys, in the chair. Stourton, I am almost positive, raised an appraising eyebrow over the microphone at my dress, doubtless admiring how the poppy print has a satisfyingly vintage look to it.
The poppy dress is undoubtedly my favourite piece in Kate Moss's new collection for Topshop because, almost uniquely, it doesn't require its wearer to be Kate Moss's physical twin to look halfway OK. I had been harshly reminded of this peril the night before at the range's launch event, when Moss turned up looking fabulous in a long slinky red dress. Pah, what a cheater, I thought, turning up to the party for her own clothing range in Galliano. A few minutes later when I was burrowing through the rails I came across a long red dress that seemed to be made out of cheap mesh. God, look at this tat, I thought dismissively before realising, of course, that it was the very same dress Moss was wearing. This is why she made a reputed £30m last year and I did not: because she makes everything look like haute couture and I, um, don't. Which rather raises the question whether it is wise for us all to be copying Moss's wardrobe, seeing as she is hardly a reliable guide.
Of course, Ms Moss is not the only celebrity to be launching her own fashion range this summer. In the coming weeks the streets of Britain will resemble the backstage of Stars in their Eyes, swarming with very specific lookalikes. Whereas for the past few years the trend has been to get fashion designers to create ranges for the high street - Stella McCartney at H&M, Roland Mouret at Gap - this year retailers have simply gone for the jugular and got celebrities to design the clothes themselves. Really, you have to admire the logic: if the reason the majority of high-street shoppers have heard of Roland Mouret is because Cameron Diaz was photographed wearing his dresses, then why bother with Mouret when you could just get Diaz to knock out a range of clothes? Diaz hasn't, as yet, done this, but I wouldn't be overly shocked if there was a Cameron Diaz surfwear line come July - mark my words. Heck, it's only surprising that she hasn't already, what with Matt Helders, the drummer from the Arctic Monkeys, making a clothing line for Supremebeing [sic] and Paul Weller doing a limited range of shirts for Ben Sherman. Never mind that the former is not exactly a fashion icon and barely a celebrity, and the latter's image is best summed up as "grumpy".
Admittedly, celebrities' lack of designing skills might be seen by the naive few as a bit of a disadvantage when it comes to creating clothing lines. Ditto the scepticism surrounding the extent of their involvement in sewing the actual clothes. But adjudicating Madonna or Lily Allen's skill at cross-stitch is not the point of these ranges: it's to let customers dress up like them.
This is particularly true in the case of Kate Moss, whose range for Topshop is overtly based on her own clothes. It's a bit of a rum proposition, seeing as Topshop has made good hay out of copying Moss for years, but I guess at least this time it has her overt blessing.
It's here that we come to the downside of my new, already beloved, Kate Moss poppy dress: it is such an obvious copy of something Moss has been photographed wearing - as, of course, it is meant to be. One could just about get away with the surprisingly flattering cropped jeans and vests from the collection without looking too much of a tragic wannabe mini-me, but a distinctively printed dress is a bit trickier to pass off as mere coincidence. If part of Moss's appeal has always been her originality, then wearing a dress that literally thousands of others have also bought, even if it does have Moss's imprimatur, does seem to bypass a certain degree of logic. Although I received nothing but compliments for my dress at the office, these were invariably preceded by the question: "Oh, is that the Kate Moss dress?"
This is even truer for the lemon pleated one-shoulder dress reckoned to be one of the collection's fastest sellers. Partly this is because the photographs of Moss in the dress that inspired it have been reprinted so many times, and partly - granted - because the sight of me in a yellow party dress in the office probably does merit some kind of comment. But also it's because the range itself has been so heavily publicised in the media. And while I can just about cope with being out-starred by a supermodel, I'm not so happy about being outdone by a £120 dress.
Kate Moss's collection for Topshop is available from Topshop outlets nationwide ... Yeah, right - dream on, ladies! Unless you were in the queue at 6am yesterday and have the stamina and concentration of a Thai boxer, these clothes are as unattainable as the supermodel herself. It's all about exclusivity, yeah? Fashion may be getting more democratic but they're not going to make it easy for you, you know.
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