Talk about a moment of change. Stella McCartney, fashion’s newest multitasker, is a brand-new mom spending Paris Fashion Week at home in London with week-old baby Miller. On the work front, like all of her designing Gucci Group colleagues, McCartney finds herself within a dramatically altered corporate landscape. Once both shielded and shadowed by an invincible flagship, her company and the group’s other fledgling brands now must feel pressure to develop not only on the runway but also at retail, and fast. Yet in challenge lies opportunity.
Though she staged her show from a distance, McCartney still seized the moment to send a distinct message — this is a more grown-up, grounded Stella McCartney. It was a savvy shift and made for one of her best collections. Certainly it was her most refined, as McCartney seemed to close the door definitively on the rock-chick shtick from which she’s been distancing herself in recent seasons.
In its place: clothes with a broader reach and greater chic. Always a fan of tailored cool, for fall she expanded its appeal beyond the London “It” girl set. Blouson jackets wrapped at the waist read racy Eighties, while beautiful coats, some cut with long torsos and belled skirts, looked positively lady-fied. Well, almost, since McCartney slipped in just a touch of the bad girl in over-the-knee laced boots that lost not a bit of edge in faux leather. Sweaters made for another motif. Though they came cozy, overgrown and in chunky tweeds — a long, cutaway cardigan over pants-in-boots; a big-sleeved turtleneck stretched into a dress — they escaped dishevelment. McCartney went gentler with silk dresses, such as a blue computer-dot print cinched at the waist and a blush pink dress worn with a sorority-girl pullover. Evening was all about the little cocktail dress, and sometimes Stella tried to work too much detail into too little space. But the real strength of this collection was its wealth of inviting clothes for the bright light of day.