Technical design? | the Fashion Spot

Technical design?

Aaliah326

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Does anyone know of a book/website/class that can teach you how to measure garments?
 
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do you mean measure bodies for clothesmaking?
 
No, I mean when you are a technical designer they measure garments such as the length of the inseam,etc. I was just wondering if there was a book or something that teaches you the basics of measuring garments.
 
Any good grading book will tell you about specs. Since you're in BK go the
FIT bookstore. They should have a couple in stock.
 
Try FashionDex, first. There are several books on vendor compliance available. Though, to be honest, the best info comes on-the-job.

If you work for a mfg, spec sheets are part of the technical package that's delivered with the patterns. The specs are for QA to determine if sizes are sewn accurately.
 
I'm a technical designer (womens sweaters), and I've never seen a book on how to measure. That being said, it's not that difficult to do. Most companies follow the same procedure, but there are some weird ones that have their own way of measuring. Here is how you would measure a sweater or cut-and-sew knit top:
A) lay the garment flat on the table, aligning the front and back hem so that they are at the same level (i.e. the back hem can't be longer than the front hem).
B) Smooth out the garment (very gently, just lightly pat it down so that there are no bumps/lumps).
C) Move the Sleeves so that they do not "bunch up" at the underarm (sleeves will need to be folded so that the garment is flat on the table).
D) Usually you start off with the body measurements and then move on to the neck and then the sleeves (i.e. "Body Length" "Shoulder Width", "Across Front", "Across Back" "Chest", "Waist", "Bottom Opening", "Neck Width", "Front Neck Drop", "Back Neck Drop", "Sleeve Length", "Armhole", "Muscle", "Cuff Opening", and then the details). Some styles require to be measured "Seam to Seam" other styles are measured "Edge to Edge".
E) HPS is "High Point of Shoulder" (which is taken from where the Neck Seam meets the Shoulder Seam on "Seam to Seam" measured styles (or where the Neck Edge is on "Edge to Edge" measured styles). That determines length, across front/back placement, waist placement, and neck drops.
Again, I'm in knit tops, so this is for knitwear only. Woven bottoms, outerwear, etc. has different measurement specifications (called specs).
 
Portfolio Presentation for Designers has a whole chapter on flats and spec and it tells you how to measure with diagrams. It's by Linda Tain.
 

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