Tess Giberson Fall 2005 NY

[runner]

"magnification"

"I don't want to be seen as a "handwork" designer, nor put into a certain category. first comes the concept, and if the handwork is necessary, then I'll do it. but if not, then I won't."

I can understand why Giberson put it this way. this season was her first full-scale runway show since her debut. as an overall impression, her line became simpler and more elegant with less handwork, which has until now been considered one of her strengths. so some people said that her collection became commercial, or that there had been a change in the way she makes her clothes. her theme for this season was "magnification".a huge collar attached to a slender coat. large pockets and buttons on a small jacket. thick and long top stitches. long stretched sleeves. magnified herringbone patterns. or a widely pleated skirt. when she came up with this concept, there was a phrase in the beginning. it was about three years ago when she felt something in the word "magnification" and wrote it on her notebook. ever since when she was a student, Giberson has written down any words that she finds interesting. after looking back at her notebooks filled with the words that she has written down randomly, reading books on architecture or art and talking to her husband, Giberson put her ideas together, and then a word gradually becomes real and forms a concept for her work.

"I've long wanted to try this theme. I touched the cloth to see how it feels, and then I was finally able to draw actual sketches. looking at these sketches, I imagined which parts to magnify. I wanted the audience to look at both the fronts and backs of my clothes, so we made a runway square so that the models would be able to walk around. ideas came to my mind one after another, like if we'd play music or which models to choose. I'm not the kind of a designer who makes clothes by drawing sketches at a desk."

she says she focused most on the overall silhouette and not the details this time. to make the details of magnified parts look interesting and eye-catching, she made the silhouette loose and relaxing. what was hard for her was the patterns, she says.

"the most difficult patterns were the trench coat and long dress, because I had to make these patterns thinking carefully about the overall proportion and balance. I feel that I've improved my skills by making all these types of silhouette patterns for this collection."

Giberson was pregnant when she was working on this season's collection. a month after the show, she gave birth to a boy. she says she doesn't know if having a child will have any influence over her work yet, but she's looking forward to the future. anyway, she says she's proud to be "a clothes designer, not a fashion designer." fashion that changes so rapidly is a waste. she hopes to keep making clothes that people can wear in everyday life.

from high fashion

 

[helena]

thanks runner thats an interesting article. she is quite cerebral in her approach to design which is very encouraging.

Still can't get it here though.

 

[Scott]

That's lovely,Runner! Thanks

I must say,I am one of those who was quite disappointed she went away from the handwork. I liked this collection but like the article,that is indeed her strength and it made her work stand-out amongst most everything it was near. They were special.

 

[Scott]

Helena,have you been back to Paris in the last months? I still believe Colette is carrying her stuff. I dunno about London...perhaps they have this season? Maybe Browns or Focus?

 

[runner]

you are welcome helena, Scott

 

[Spacemiu]

Thanks runner


I don't mind that she moved away from ahnd working, btu I still don't think this was oen of her better colelctions, still very ncie off coarse.

 

[jhaime]

I love that sweater in post 3#...it's bloody gorgeous...

 

[nqth]

Thanks Runner:-)

 

[helena]

Helena,have you been back to Paris in the last months? I still believe Colette is carrying her stuff. I dunno about London...perhaps they have this season? Maybe Browns or Focus?

have never seem tess giberson clothes in colette Scott, but with colette you have to ask the SA's to bring stuff out for you to see, it takes them ages & even then its wrapped up in about a million polythene bags an dthey have to lay it out on a sofa thing for you...a bit of a pain (colette is just like a gallery I find).

Hmmm maybe browns focus would do it - its their sort of look I guess.

 

[travolta]

i like the outfit posted by lena. also, thanks runner for that article, interesting concept about the magnification... for a reason that is only my own she reminds me of alice in wonderland -- big and small, zoom in and out..

 

[orlem]

Joining those who think the more handwork, the better... as a general principle though, because this collection was really good in spite.

The talk about her stuff being hard to find is funny, it's impossible for me to find too, but I love chasing it around, I bug a lot of shop owners with my e-mails and phone calls when I'm trying to track something down. It's kind of like a hunt though

 

[cerfas]

Tess Giberson fans
check out the article on the Verdopolis FutureFashion show on the fair trade fashion thread...
this was her contribution to it


http://www.verdopolis.org