...There seems to be no lack of designers willing to collaborate with these lower-end retailers. However, among those who follow fashion, there are deep reservations about these partnerships. The idea seems to be that the designers are “selling out” or otherwise trading their credibility for a few bucks. This argument seems to miss the point. It’s all well and good to be artistic and artistic integrity is a wonderful thing; however, the fashion industry is a
business. Those beautiful clothes you see going down the runway and in the magazines cost lots of money to produce. In addition to the personal artistic satisfaction all designers, I’m sure, reap from their work, they also, quite simply, want you to buy their clothes.
Smaller designers have little financial backing and name recognition compared to larger houses. How many people who don’t closely follow fashion know who Giles Deacon and Thakoon Panichgul are? Additionally, bigger name designers like Alexander McQueen and Stella McCartney, for example, whose lines are owned and backed by the
Gucci Group, are being told to make their lines profitable, or else risk being shut down or sold - like respected, but not particularly profitable, fashion house Rochas, which was shut down earlier this year by its owner, Procter & Gamble.
Designers partner with lower-end chains for the same reasons they launch fragrances. Do you think Michael Kors or Ralph Lauren have a deep, artistic interest in their various perfumes? I doubt it, but they sell like hotcakes, generating significant revenue, as well as growing the number of people familiar with the brands. I don’t see anyone complaining about Viktor & Rolf’s
Flowerbomb
, but I see plenty of people up in arms over the H&M collaboration. I fail to see how trying to make a design business successful - by designing clothes - is a bad thing.
In addition to the benefits for the designers, the collaborations also benefit the consumer. Can most of us afford high-end designs? Certainly not. However, that doesn’t mean that we don’t want to be well-dressed. While the quality of these lower-end collections is obviously not on par with the ready-to-wear designs, the items are designed in order to allow the average consumer an opportunity to buy stylish, well-designed, and yet affordable clothing. I can’t find a single thing wrong with that.
The arguments against these collections smack of elitism. It isn’t exactly news to me that the fashion industry, and discussion thereof, is rife with elitism, but I always find it disappointing. There’s no benefit that I can see to keeping fashion out of the reach of the masses. The overwhelming frenzy surrounding the H&M launch this week just goes to show that thousands of people the world over are in favour of these designer/high street collaborations.