When Joan Smalls walks down a runway, she sometimes says to herself, “Get outta my way, I’m coming through!” And it’s a mantra that has served her well. Last year, the 22-year-old model became the first Hispanic woman to represent Estée Lauder in its ads for cosmetics and skin care. Aerin Lauder may have touted Smalls as a “global beauty,” but it took a while for anyone to take notice.
Smalls, who grew up in the Puerto Rican countryside, had been floating around the fashion industry since 2007, doing small-time runway shows for the likes of Benjamin Cho or Heatherette, or the occasional department-store catalog shoot, and she once appeared in a Ricky Martin video — but her look hadn’t really caught on.
Current trends notwithstanding, the fashion world is a pretty matchy-matchy place. An Asian model here. A black model there. Rare and often fleeting points of color on the vast, blond landscape. Then, in a break Smalls describes as nothing short of a rebirth, Riccardo Tisci booked her exclusively for his 2010 fall/winter couture collection. A succession of Gucci campaigns followed. And stories in all of the requisite Vogues — British, Italian, French, American. And now she regularly walks for designers like Marc Jacobs, Rodarte and Alexander Wang.
But despite her meteoric rise, she remains very down-to-earth. When the money started to come in, her first splurge was a pickup truck for her dad. “I would love to see ethnic barriers abolished and an equal opportunity available to all,” she says of her ambitions. “On a personal level, I would also like to achieve things professionally that no model has ever done before.” (Top on her list for now: an American Vogue cover.)
All that may sound like an extremely tall order, even for a girl with the stamina of a fighter (she used to box for exercise back home in Puerto Rico) and legs that don’t quit. When asked whom in the industry she most identifies with, she doesn’t toss out the expected Iman or Beverly Johnson, and says, more generally, “models who have worked their way to an admirable career and have taken their time to get there.” Which is perfectly in line with her personal definition of beauty: confidence.