Law Roach has assembled a group of investors to buy the French fashion house Emanuel Ungaro
From Puck News:
There was much ado about
Law Roach’s “
retirement” from the world of celebrity styling more than two years ago. In the end, it meant nothing. Roach still has a lucrative arrangement with his top client,
Zendaya, wherein he receives a percentage of her earnings on fashion-related projects. Otherwise, he’s been busy writing a
book, appearing on multiple television shows, and adding clients back to his pruned roster, including up-and-comer
Ryan Destiny and
Ariana Grande.
However, it seems that Roach
does have something unexpected in store: The image architect may soon become a brand proprietor. I’m told that Roach has assembled a group of investors to buy the French fashion house Emanuel Ungaro from
Asim Abdullah, the Silicon Valley tech investor who acquired the brand for $84 million from the
Ferragamo family in 2005. The Ferragamos had purchased a majority stake less than a decade earlier and enlisted a young
Giambattista Valli to design it, but never managed to turn a profit. (
Ungaro, the eponymous designer who founded the brand in 1965, died in 2019.)
Abdullah’s story is pretty extraordinary. As
documentedby
Cathy Horyn in
The New York Times five years after the purchase, he bought Ungaro on a whim after growing bored with the tech industry that made him rich in the first place during the dot-com boom of the 1990s. “The fashion thing was not a planned event,” he
told the
San Francisco Chronicle in 2007. “And even though I knew very little of it, I knew with a brand like Ungaro, I could refurbish it, and that I’d be able to do other things as well. It gives me a platform to build upon. I’m very committed to this business, but I see it as a stepping stone to other things.”
At the time, the dizzying prints that made Ungaro famous in the ’70s and ’80s were discordant with the ’60s-informed styles of the mid-aughts, best represented by
Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga,
Phoebe Philo, and others. Abdullah hired several ill-fated creative directors—from
Peter Dundas to…
Lindsay Lohan—and by 2010, there were already rumors that he was angling to sell. Twenty years since his purchase and
nine designers in (a lot, even for the musical chairs era), Abdullah somehow still owns it, despite persistent speculation that he’s saddled with debt. In 2021, he contracted Israel-born, New York–based
Kobi Halperin—whose namesake line performs well at stores like Saks Fifth Avenue on the contemporary floor—to design the collection. In 2021, Abdullah signed a 10-year deal with Inter Parfums to create and distribute fragrances. I hear the real value, though, is in the archives in Paris, which are robust.
Enter Roach, who has long been obsessed with Ungaro, and seems to have found some money to make this dream come true. I don’t know (yet) who is backing Roach, but it’s worth noting that he has worked with India’s
Ambani family and has access to many people of that financial stature. If the deal goes through, Roach would own a majority stake in the business.
As for what his exact role will be, that’s still undecided. He may hire a new designer, he may design the collection himself; no matter what, he’ll have creative control. Not a giant leap, given that stylists like Roach often design red carpet garments in collaboration with the V.I.P. teams—and many stylists have gone on to be costume designers. (Never forget
Rachel Zoe’s role in
Harvey Weinstein’s ill-fated purchase of Halston.) But does Roach have the ability to make people care enough about Emanuel Ungaro for this to work? It’ll be tough, even with the right talent in place. The infrastructure needs to be there, too. Roach declined to comment when I called him. A representative for Ungaro and Abdullah did not respond to a request for comment. I’ll report back with more details soon.