Thom Browne Haute Couture F/W 2023.24 Paris

He has done this before and with better results and creativity.
 
I think the fabrics development was quite exceptional. Crisp and clean…
But my god that show felt like a torture on livestream so I can imagine how it was for the guests.

In a way, doing commercial Couture is clever but it’s confusing as the RTW, that is totally OTT and borderline ridiculous has that Wow factor lacking here. I guess he wants to sell clothes to clients this time.

The biggest disappointment was the lack of flou and classic Couture techniques. You want to see plissés, drapés, biais cut, fluid fabrics… That is the real challenge for him.

It gave firecrackers tbh.
 
When the stream finally ended I breathed a sigh of relief. The theatrics were so unnecessary. Now I appreciate MGC's straight to the point presentations even more.
As @Lola701 said, the fabric development was indeed exceptional. It reminded me of Fendi HC by Karl. Simple silhouettes would highlight that. Simplicity is what this collection needed.
 
I’m not gonna lie I was expecting it to be a little bit different because it does look a lot - it is - pretty much of what we already see on his RTW shows.

the execution however is flawless, his play with volume is pristine and it’s a shame he didn’t allow himself to get immersed into the Haute Couture bubble. at the same time this what he is.
 
His technique and theatrics normally look couture level so there's nothing shocking here and am not sure if 'Thom Browne couture' was even necessary. Nice to see Alek out there admiring the items like an actual client which she most likely is.
 
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(media-amazon.com)
 
whoever it was said the collection lacked flou was spot on. this is stiff and ugly. overwrought, more of the same. desperate and sycophantic. aimless and yet aiming tirelessly to please. it has no purpose or reason for existing, much like his ready-to-wear offerings.
 
But... why? I'm so confused. Does he intend to make his RTW more wearable and actually sell it, while moving his more ~quirky~ designs to HC?
Otherwise, this is just "been there done that" again.
 
More of the same from him. I don't see the point of this when he already does the exact same thing, if not more extravagant, ready to wear shows.

Would be great to see him do flou but he's conditioned himself to work with a particular style for so long now I don't know if he'd have the guts to do it. He does what he does really well, it's just become a broken record although I suppose the social media fashion masses adore this for the avant-garde-isms.

He looks ridiculous in his outfit by the way. Absolutely heinous. Sorry but not sorry.
 
He looks ridiculous in his outfit by the way

Atleast we have one collection where the designer's outfit is the best of the collection...

Like everyone said, he has done much better things on his rtw collections. i always love it when he does colors like that beach/lifeguard collection.
 

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