Tom Ford - Designer

[softgrey]

Originally posted by kit@Mar 6th, 2004 - 9:11 am
In deference to the multiplicity of opinons on Tom Ford here , wouldn't it be an idea to rename this site as the ' Tom Ford Spot ' , eg TFS ? !!! ( at least until after the Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche show tomorrow evening )

Geddit ?

KIT

 

[Lena]

PPR replies

Weinberg Rebuts Tom Ford Comments

PARIS — Serge Weinberg, chief executive of Pinault-Printemps-Redoute, was said to be hot under the collar after reading Tom Ford’s exit interview in these columns Friday, in which the designer called Weinberg “naïve” about the fashion industry.

“I have a lot of respect for Tom’s talent, and I understand his disappointment,” Weinberg said in response to Ford’s comments. “His presentation of the negotiations is completely inaccurate. In accordance with our commitment, I will make no comment at this stage.”

It is understood that the gloves won’t come off until April 30, when Ford and Gucci Group chief executive Domenico De Sole officially exit their posts — and confidentiality agreements expire.

In the interview, Ford questioned PPR’s strategy to have a trio of designers helming Gucci, which is expected to be announced this week.

At Stella McCartney’s show on Sunday morning, Weinberg declined to elaborate on his statement, saying, “I am the ceo of a public company and I won’t make statements like [Ford’s].”

 

[tealady]

I only thought that to direct a film, you had to know something about filmmaking. Producer would seem to be more up his alley, or costuming! Hollywood needs another Edith Head!

Suppose Lord of the Rings director Peter Jackson announced he was quitting filmmaking to take up fashion design and thought Paris would welcome him with open arms...

 

[faust]

Originally posted by tealady@Mar 8th, 2004 - 12:38 pm
I only thought that to direct a film, you had to know something about filmmaking. Producer would seem to be more up his alley, or costuming! Hollywood needs another Edith Head!

Suppose Lord of the Rings director Peter Jackson announced he was quitting filmmaking to take up fashion design and thought Paris would welcome him with open arms...

You mean to direct a GOOD film. Tom can do for Hollywood what he did for Gucci, hire young talent while dangling his brand name in front of the crowd...

 

[Orochian]

Originally posted by Lena@Mar 8th, 2004 - 4:54 am
“His presentation of the negotiations is completely inaccurate. In accordance with our commitment, I will make no comment at this stage.”

Funny, I don't think I ever heard a single word from Ford about the details of the negotiation, as he more than once made clear that no such talks would be made due to an agreement between him and PPR.

Even if I'm not a fan of Ford's, Serge Weinberg has struck me as a rather unsavory person since day one. I think this is just another Bertelli-Jil Sander fiasco waiting to happen - except that, this time, the Tom and Dom team most probably won't consider a come-back, and unlike Bertelli who owns the company, Weinberg's hide would be in hot water once the sales are in a slump.

 

[pennyfei]

i agree

 

[softgrey]

Excellent interview from today's WWD.

Friday March 5, 2004
Ford on the Record: Tom Blasts Weinberg, Gucci Team Strategy

By Bridget Foley

PARIS — “Money had absolutely nothing to do with it. It was about control.”

In those words, Tom Ford denied recent rumors that his salary demands were the deal-breaker that ultimately ended his and Domenico De Sole’s reigns at Gucci Group and with it, a dazzling 10-year moment in fashion. “We had always been very clear that it was important that we maintain control of the company…it’s clear to me that Serge [Weinberg, chief executive officer of Gucci’s parent Pinault-Printemps-Redoute] intends to control the company.”

Three days before presenting his eighth Yves Saint Laurent collection, his last under the auspices of Gucci Group, the man whose presence has dominated this collection season sat for an exclusive interview with WWD at the Yves Saint Laurent headquarters here, in the spacious office he will vacate on April 30, completion date for the now infamous Gucci Group put.

While honoring an agreement with PPR executives not to discuss the particulars of the contract negotiations, Ford maintained that both sides had agreed on the matter of money. “All I can say is the financial settlement had been reached,” he said. “Both Domenico and I agreed to take less than we had over the past five years. I was going to sign a seven-year contract. Domenico was going to sign a two-year contract.”

Ford also stated that two years ago, “it was approved by the board that I would replace Domenico as ceo” upon De Sole’s retirement. “Before this deal fell apart, that was the plan of succession. Then came the turn of events.”

D: You won’t discuss what went on during the negotiations?

TF: No, I don’t really want to discuss it. It’s over, it’s done. I don’t know what the point of discussing it now is. We had always been very clear that it was important that we maintain control of the company.

WWD: If your understanding was with François Pinault that you were putting a succession plan in place, then in your view it was Serge Weinberg who had a different idea?

TF: Yes. It’s clear to me that Serge intends to control the company.

WWD: One rumor is that you were in negotiations asking for major money — $100 million.

TF: All I can say is that the financial settlement was done. We agreed to something for the next seven years. What I would have been paid for the next seven years would have been substantially less than I got for the previous five. Domenico also, but he was going to sign a two-year contract.

WWD: Why were you willing to do that?

TF: Because I love the company. I believe in it.

WWD: So money really had nothing to do with the whole thing?

TF: Money had absolutely nothing to do with it at all. It really was a question of control, and fortunately or unfortunately, I realized that I have nothing to learn about luxury from Serge Weinberg. I actually said this to Serge in a meeting and I think that put the nail in the coffin.

WWD: That was about the same time François Pinault was saying you were going to be the next ceo?

TF: Yes. I think Serge does a fine job at what he does, but he has absolutely no experience in the luxury industry, in the fashion industry. But PPR paid a lot of money for Gucci. It’s their company and they can run it as they choose.

I have absolutely nothing against Serge as a person. I like him a lot. But I think that a little knowledge is a dangerous thing. The path Serge will choose will be his own, and I wish him the best of luck. It’s not the path I would have chosen.

WWD: On your succession plan, you would have removed yourself from the design process?

TF: If I had stayed, Stefano would have been the person for Yves Saint Laurent. At Gucci, I had not yet finalized my successor.

orochian...um...maybe you need to re-read this interview...ford said he wasn't going to say anything, but here are all the things he actually said...and he called weinberg naive...(which he probably is in terms of the fashion industry)...

personally, i don't think it's a bertelli/sander thing 'in the making'...i think it's already done!!

 

[Lena]

one does not need experience in lux companies to run a lux company..

i fear its Ford who's been naive here, steinberg can actually hire a whole
group of experienced and well payed luxe consultants
with the right team anyone can drive well a lux brand,
just as Gucci did with De Sole.

 

[softgrey]

Originally posted by Lena@Mar 8th, 2004 - 5:26 pm
one does not need experience in lux companies to run a lux company..

i fear its Ford who's been naive here, steinberg can actually hire a whole
group of experienced and well payed luxe consultants
with the right team anyone can drive well a lux brand,
just as Gucci did with De Sole.

you're right lena...

but i've seen people who can run very successful companies just lose it when it comes to fashion...i've seen this personally...they were, of course, stubborn and did not listen to the advice of those around them...(grumble,grumble...serves them right, ha!..what?... oh,no... i'm not bitter...hmph!)

as you say...with the right team in place...one can do most anything...

 

[Orochian]

Originally posted by softgrey@Mar 8th, 2004 - 5:11 pm
orochian...um...maybe you need to re-read this interview...ford said he wasn't going to say anything, but here are all the things he actually said...and he called weinberg naive...(which he probably is in terms of the fashion industry)...

personally, i don't think it's a bertelli/sander thing 'in the making'...i think it's already done!!

All Ford ever mentioned was PPR's plan for the Gucci group to evolve over the next few years, the way he understood it, before the negotiations for their contracts came up. He didn't mention the specifics of what deterred him and De Sole from reaching an agreement with Weinberg, in other words, the "deal breaker" of their dispute is still a myth. All we'll ever know is that it revolves around the issue of control - and nothing beyond that.

If Ford actually uttered a single word about what he had agreed on paper not to discuss with the media, he could very well get sued. Obviously that's not the case here.

From Weinberg's comment regarding Miuccia's role in Prada, I'd say calling him naive is already a vast understatement. "Clueless" might've been more appropriate. Whether the typical Prada customer knows of Miuccia or not, they are drawn to their products because of their unified vision and coherent aesthetic, something that is tightly within the control of creative director. Take away that tight grip, or underestimate its importance, and the very essence of a brand is lost. I very much fear that's the path Gucci is eventually heading towards under PPR. We do not need another LVMH.

And Lena, it'd be very smart of Weinberg to hire a team of luxury goods specialists to assist him in running the Gucci Group, especially if he's aware of his own shortcomings in this field. However from the looks of it he's far too confident to head that route, and Ford's concern is well founded. We shall see.

 

[Lena]

Originally posted by Orochian@Mar 9th, 2004 - 12:58 pm
be very smart of Weinberg to hire a team of luxury goods specialists to assist him in running the Gucci Group, especially if he's aware of his own shortcomings in this field. However from the looks of it he's far too confident to head that route, and Ford's concern is well founded. We shall see.

Trust me that all fashion companies work with consultants,
even the smallest manufacturing units.

Nobody does this alone, there is too much revenue to play single handed.
Profitable decisions are always a matter of information, insight and focus.

and i'm sure PPR has not developed to super group by sheer chance,
they know the game

 

[e-Tom]

there are lots of SPECULATIONS on FIGHT between TOM FORD AND SERGE WEINBURG


BOTTOM LINE : I HOPE EVERYTHING WOULD BE FINE FOR BOTH SIDES ...

 

[e-Tom]

Originally posted by e-Tom@Mar 9th, 2004 - 5:26 am
there are lots of SPECULATIONS on FIGHT between TOM FORD AND SERGE WEINBURG


BOTTOM LINE : I HOPE EVERYTHING WOULD BE FINE FOR BOTH SIDES ...

"down, down, down...would the fall never come to an end?"

 

[Orochian]

I'm sure PPR is a resourceful conglomerate, but isn't the purchase of the Gucci group their first foray into the luxury goods /fashion industry? Francois Pinault's background is in middle-market department stores, no?

I get the feeling that, among the top-ranking executives at PPR, the sheer magnitude of resentment caused by Tom and Dom's departure hasn't quite yet fully registered. If they knew just how much it'd upset its core clientele and the media people, I doubt they'd let those two go so easily. I sense a gross underestimation of the weight Tom Ford holds in the brand value of Gucci.

I, for one, will stop buying anything made by them after Ford's last collections. Not as a juvenile form of protest, but because the brand's become something I no longer aspire to. I'd be much happier spending my money elsewhere on clothes whose designers with which I'm familiar and whom I admire.

 

[Lena]

Originally posted by Orochian@Mar 9th, 2004 - 1:32 pm
...because the brand's become something I no longer aspire to.

how do you know what the brand will become,
it may be even better..
come on be fair and give them a chance,
after all its exactly the same team minus TF
it shouldnt be that alien a product for the Gucci clients

 

[Lena]

there are lots of SPECULATIONS on FIGHT between TOM FORD AND SERGE WEINBURG


BOTTOM LINE : I HOPE EVERYTHING WOULD BE FINE FOR BOTH SIDES ...

i had to merge since there is already a discussion on this

 

[softgrey]

Originally posted by Orochian@Mar 9th, 2004 - 5:32 am
I'm sure PPR is a resourceful conglomerate, but isn't the purchase of the Gucci group their first foray into the luxury goods /fashion industry? Francois Pinault's background is in middle-market department stores, no?

I get the feeling that, among the top-ranking executives at PPR, the sheer magnitude of resentment caused by Tom and Dom's departure hasn't quite yet fully registered. If they knew just how much it'd upset its core clientele and the media people, I doubt they'd let those two go so easily. I sense a gross underestimation of the weight Tom Ford holds in the brand value of Gucci.

I, for one, will stop buying anything made by them after Ford's last collections. Not as a juvenile form of protest, but because the brand's become something I no longer aspire to. I'd be much happier spending my money elsewhere on clothes whose designers with which I'm familiar and whom I admire.

i can't believe you would be that narrow-minded...you are basically judging the collection without ever haviing seen it...tom ford is not the only designer there-(i hope you're not kidding yourself into beleiving that he is) and i'm sure that the others are talented...

as lena said-how do you know it won't be even better...

if you don't like what gucci has become...then you don't like what tom ford has done...so then you don't like tom ford...either way...it's ridiculous to judge a collection that hasn't been designed yet...

the bottom line is that with ford's departure there is a rare and huge opportunity in the luxury goods market and everyone will be doing their best to fill it and rake in those profits for themselves....


the race is on!...finally, something exciting and interesting going on in fashion...

next season should be very interesting...

 

[Spike413]

I feel bad for the new designers heading Gucci. Let's face it, good or bad, Tom Ford defined what that brand is. You couldn't pay me enough to send out a collection for a label that was headed by such a popular designer who is no longer there. There are way too many people waiting for you to fail. Myself included, not beacause of the new designers, but because it would serve Serge right for underestimating creators of fashion.

 

[Orochian]

Originally posted by softgrey@Mar 9th, 2004 - 5:24 pm
i can't believe you would be that narrow-minded...you are basically judging the collection without ever haviing seen it...tom ford is not the only designer there-(i hope you're not kidding yourself into beleiving that he is) and i'm sure that the others are talented...

as lena said-how do you know it won't be even better...

if you don't like what gucci has become...then you don't like what tom ford has done...so then you don't like tom ford...either way...it's ridiculous to judge a collection that hasn't been designed yet...

the bottom line is that with ford's departure there is a rare and huge opportunity in the luxury goods market and everyone will be doing their best to fill it and rake in those profits for themselves....


the race is on!...finally, something exciting and interesting going on in fashion...

next season should be very interesting...

I don't think you quite get my point softgrey. Gucci is on its way to become something that I don't aspire to, specifically because there are now 3 designers at its helm creatively. However talented they may be (and I'm sure they all are), the lack of a single unified vision and coherent aesthetic is sufficiently off-putting for me to spend my money elsewhere, where such a tight creative control exists. Their plan for splitting the creative responsibilities within the house is an inherently flawed strategy, and goes against everything that Gucci had stood for.

This is important to me; when I pay the premium for a designer piece I want to be intimately familiar with, and have enormous respect for, its designer's aesthetic and the integrity of its brand. I like some of Hedi Slimane's work; however I can't stand everything else that Dior produces and its overall image, and hence I don't usually go anything made by Dior Homme. One may argue that's a bit extreme, but that's entirely my prerogative as a consumer.

As Tom Ford once famously said, a dress doesn't exist in a vacuum. To make a piece of garment truly desirable, you need to envelope it with a coherent, consistent brand image. That is essentially what made Gucci, at its peak in the late 90's, head and shoulders above the rest of the luxury goods industry before the competition started catching up. This is also something that LVMH doesn't quite seem to "get".

 

[softgrey]

Originally posted by Orochian+Mar 9th, 2004 - 10:34 pm--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Orochian @ Mar 9th, 2004 - 10:34 pm)</div><div class='quotemain'> <!--QuoteBegin-softgrey@Mar 9th, 2004 - 5:24 pm
i can't believe you would be that narrow-minded...you are basically judging the collection without ever haviing seen it...tom ford is not the only designer there-(i hope you're not kidding yourself into beleiving that he is) and i'm sure that the others are talented...

as lena said-how do you know it won't be even better...

if you don't like what gucci has become...then you don't like what tom ford has done...so then you don't like tom ford...either way...it's ridiculous to judge a collection that hasn't been designed yet...

the bottom line is that with ford's departure there is a rare and huge opportunity in the luxury goods market and everyone will be doing their best to fill it and rake in those profits for themselves....


the race is on!...finally, something exciting and interesting going on in fashion...

next season should be very interesting...

I don't think you quite get my point softgrey. Gucci is on its way to become something that I don't aspire to, specifically because there are now 3 designers at its helm creatively. However talented they may be (and I'm sure they all are), the lack of a single unified vision and coherent aesthetic is sufficiently off-putting for me to spend my money elsewhere, where such a tight creative control exists. Their plan for splitting the creative responsibilities within the house is an inherently flawed strategy, and goes against everything that Gucci had stood for.

This is important to me; when I pay the premium for a designer piece I want to be intimately familiar with, and have enormous respect for, its designer's aesthetic and the integrity of its brand. I like some of Hedi Slimane's work; however I can't stand everything else that Dior produces and its overall image, and hence I don't usually go anything made by Dior Homme. One may argue that's a bit extreme, but that's entirely my prerogative as a consumer.

As Tom Ford once famously said, a dress doesn't exist in a vacuum. To make a piece of garment truly desirable, you need to envelope it with a coherent, consistent brand image. That is essentially what made Gucci, at its peak in the late 90's, head and shoulders above the rest of the luxury goods industry before the competition started catching up. This is also something that LVMH doesn't quite seem to "get". [/b][/quote]
if you think you are buying anything other than a piece of clothing...then you have become a victim of the marketing machine...in the end...you are not buying a 'lifestyle' but a shirt...

it's the marketing that makes consumers think otherwise...

don't believe the hype!! B)

and i still think it's ridiculous to judge a collection that hasn't been designed yet


you are free to spend your money anywhere you like, of course...

what i find inherently flawed is that you don't buy great clothes(fr hedi for example) because you don't like lvmh...why limit your options? and why punish the designer?...you're right, i don't get your point