http://www.***************/image/2005/Q4/1116200513042.jpg
Who'd have guessed Tom Ford's comeback would start with a rethink of your (and his) grandmother's favorite fragrance? Maggie Bullock talks calories, cosmetics, and caftans with the master of reinvention.
Photographed by Gilles Bensimon
Vodka and tonic in hand, crisp white shirt unbuttoned down to
there, Tom Ford is standing in ELLE's New York City photo studio holding forth on how to dress—what else?—a bed.
Über-model Carolyn Murphy, who at this moment is swathed in little more than a black satin sheet, is pro-linen. “No, no, no,” Ford chides, “too rough. Chafes your elbows and knees.”
A year after his abrupt departure from the helms of Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent, fashion's former king of high-end kink and Estée Lauder's golden girl have formed a new beauty dream team. He is Lauder's first-ever guest designer; she is the face—and flawless body—of his inaugural project, Youth Dew Amber Nude. Dusting off a long-overlooked fragrance may not sound like a particularly Ford-worthy project, but Youth Dew happens to be a scent with a surprisingly colorful past. When it was launched, in 1953, perfume was considered a gift, not something women bought for themselves. So Estée came up with a revolutionary idea: She would introduce the fragrance as a potent, boldly sensual bath oil. After her customers were irrevocably hooked, she would give them perfume. The visionary gamble not only revved up the American fragrance game, it made Estée Lauder MVP. In a streamlined version of the original gold-beribboned bottle, Ford's lighter, clearer Amber Nude contains notes of dark chocolate, grapefruit, and (surprise) something the company calls “bare skin.” As for what her grandmother would think of the provocateur sexing up her lovingly built, family-run empire, Aerin Lauder Zinterhofer, the company's senior vice president, laughs. “Everyone remembers Estée as an older woman, but she knew there was value in shocking people,” Aerin says. “She'd get a kick out of him. In her forties, she was Tom times 20.”
Why Youth Dew?
I walked in knowing I wanted it. It's the fragrance that built Estée, part of the DNA of the brand. It's iconic. Joan Crawford said it was how she snagged Alfred Steele, the Pepsi guy. And my grandmother wore it. I bought her former home in Santa Fe in 1995, and when I moved in I could still smell Youth Dew all over the house. That tells you how strong it was. The first thing we did with Amber Nude was cut the concentration of the original by 50 percent.
Wasn't your grandmother a bit of a character?
You could say that. She was the Texas version of Auntie Mame. She had six husbands, but number three was the one she loved, so she called numbers four, five, and six by his name, Harold. She was the first to wear Courrèges transparent pantsuits, the first to wear bell-bottoms. When I was a child, she was just…magic.
I read that she once had a high-heeled cast made.
Is that true?
Absolutely. At 75, she slipped on some ice in heels and a fur coat and broke her leg. The doctor made her a cast with a heel so she could still wear her shoes.
So the shoes were nonnegotiable?
She had them custom-made in Las Vegas. Her closet was full of hundreds of pairs of identical Lucite platforms with different flowers suspended in their heels to match each of her caftans. Once, she was trying on a pair and I said, “Aren't those a little high?” She had the best line: “Honey, I'm not going to let six inches stand in the way of my being beautiful.”
You're the master of telling women what we want to wear. What do we want, beauty-wise?
Young girls suddenly think it's cool to carry a tube of lipstick again. When everyone else is slathering on the same wand of lip gloss, suddenly it becomes a luxurious ritual to pull a beautiful lipstick out of your bag. The one thing I hate is seeing women put on their makeup in the car. I'm not saying you have to spend a lot of time on it, but even if it's just five minutes, it should be precise. It should be perfect.
Carolyn Murphy looks pretty perfect in the new ad.
I wanted to show a completely different side of the Estée Lauder woman—more glamorous, more evening. The fragrance itself is dark, rich, like maple syrup, so we made Carolyn look like a piece of butterscotch, like cognac, stretched out like a
Playboy centerfold—a very expensive
Playboy centerfold.
The Ford Formula strikes again.
Of course people will say, “Oh, it's skin, it's naked. It's so Tom Ford.” But I didn't put sex into this fragrance; it was already there. The original ad shows a woman stepping out of the shower, totally nude. You feel like you're spying on her. And that came out in 1953!