Tom's interview to ELLE
Tom's interview to ELLE
Who'd have guessed Tom Ford's comeback would start with a rethink of your (and his) grandmother's favorite fragrance? Maggie Bullock talks calories, cosmetics, and caftans with the master of reinvention
Does sex still rule the world?
Believe it or not, I am a little older now. My mind isn't exactly where it was in the mid-'90s, when we were confronting AIDS and there was a retraction of all things sexual. Back then, in-your-face sex like this [
mimics ripping his shirt open] was refreshing. I'm still obviously into seduction, but I'm also into sensuality, which can be part of the rapport you have with people all day long—male-female, male-male, female-female, whatever. Sensuality doesn't necessarily end in sex. Although sex is almost always better when it begins with sensuality.
Do you have to be young to be sexy?
I do find it strange when a 60-year-old woman looks 25 until you get close to her. There's a good side to that: In the '50s, you would never have thought of a 65-year-old woman as someone who had sex. Now she is. But it's okay to do it with a few wrinkles.
Who gets it right?
For me, Lauren Hutton is the ideal older woman. She lets herself have a few lines, but at 62 she still looks amazing. Ali MacGraw is the same way. They're both so beautiful and sexy. Of course, they were gorgeous 22-year-olds, which never hurts.
Who doesn't?
Women who deform themselves with plastic surgery. I can't stand those
things people put in their lips. And I do not like a fake breast. I just don't understand it: We can send a man to the moon, but when it comes to designing a breast implant, we get grapefruit halves. Why can't we make one with a natural slope? Remember the days of “Cross your heart”? No one wants to be lifted and separated anymore. Women want to be blown up. It's all part of our pumped-up SUV culture.
But you said it yourself: We all want to look young and perfect.
That's where women go wrong. People think a face-lift makes them look younger, but the truth is, they're not fooling anyone. There's nothing wrong with surgery, but you have to be so careful. Look at Pamela Harriman. You read about all those men being crazy about her when she was in her thirties and forties, so she clearly had a certain something. But I think she was more attractive when she died at 76 than she'd ever been. After she started her work as an ambassador. And after she'd had a couple of very smart face-lifts.
How do you stay so age-proof?
I believe in doing subtle things as you go along. I get a little Botox, a little collagen. I would have a really deep crease here [
points to a smooth spot between his brows] if I didn't.
But it's not just your face that's picture-perfect 24/7.
I'm not always dressed like this! When I'm out in Santa Fe, it's Levi's, boots, and T-shirts. But I do control my image. When I first arrived at Gucci and started to be photographed a lot, I realized I wanted to look a certain way. It's partly perfectionism, partly a Virgo control-freak thing. Appearance is a gift. Like all gifts, it has to be respected.
How do you show your respect?
I don't eat. [
Laughs] I was drinking Slim-Fast at 13. I have a constant calorie count going in my head. I know the number of calories in everything.
Okay, how about a Coke?
135.
A candy bar?
180 to 300.
Hold on—what about that vodka and tonic?
I do drink a lot, though much less than I used to. When I was living in London, which is basically an alcoholic society, I went out drinking every night, then took aspirin to keep from having a hangover. Now I have two or three drinks a night with veggies and salad at dinner. I eat protein every day, but only at lunch.
Sounds like a Hollywood meal plan.
When I was growing up, I wanted to be a movie star. Not an actor—a star. I used to sit and think about what I'd say to Johnny Carson. A fashion designer is not so different from a performer—public people are all driven by a weird insecurity. Obviously I need that little pat of approval on the back. I need the outside world to say, “Job well done.”
Is it hard to live without that approval after having it for so long?
I was really crushed after Gucci. One day I had ten thousand employees and offices in New York, L.A., Paris; the next day that all evaporated. I kept thinking, What will I do? Where will I go? That company was my child. When I watched the video of the last show, I couldn't quit crying. I just kept thinking about all the work that went into getting it to that point. And I had a hard time understanding why I'd essentially been fired. I still don't understand it. But I've realized it was the best thing that ever happened to me.
Why is that?
Now I have the ability to do only what I want to do. That's my new credo.
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