Very beautiful collection, very chic and quite subtle.
I'm actually surprised by this. Tom is known for doing the 180° thing but i didn't expect this to be so...Romantic in a way.
It looks very Carine...Maybe the most "Carine" thing he has done since Gucci FW 2002. I know she styled it but it's so obvious...
The turban is something she has done many times in editorial, the length is very her, the Mary Jane pumps, the corsets, the jackets over the shoulders...
It's sometimes almost MaxMara-ish (And Carine does a lot at Max Mara)
In terms of clothes, it's very referencial of his past but in a much modern way. Sometimes, it feels like he is referencing people who referenced him. The corsets are very JWA for Loewe but at the same time, he did the corsets at Gucci. The same with the fringes in the eveningwear...It looks very Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy but at the same time, Tom did that in 2004. I also see some touch of Alaia vintage that i like.
I love a lot of things: the big trench coat, the gown on Gigi, the Marabout feathers big coat, the tuxedo, the YSL fw03 skirts, the bags and the shoes.
It's funny because it looks more modern and desirable than S/S18...I mean, it looks now but at the same time, i can't put my fingers in what changed because he was also referencing himself for that collection.
It's a good start for NYFW. Bravo Tom! (Now i need to buy one of those acid suit from the fw18 show).