Tory Burch F/W 2024.25 : Vittoria Ceretti, Mona Tougaard & Chu Wong by Jamie Hawkesworth

[chrisand489]

(Weibo: I-rma)

 

[Lola701]

It works, it’s good!

 

[lhhbl]

Hate it. All of it.
The models are stiff and with debatable posing, the style is atrocious on the top photos, the colors are unispiring and I don't get why they're wearing heels on the sand + water.

 

[tigerrouge]

Hate it. All of it.
The models are stiff and with debatable posing, the style is atrocious on the top photos, the colors are unispiring and I don't get why they're wearing heels on the sand + water.

The heels in the water, oh god.

The sensation of the front of the shoe filling up with water, the high heels sinking into the sand and getting suction-stuck in it, the shoes falling off your feet (or you falling out of the shoes), then having to pick sediment out of them for the next two years... it's just not selling me the fantasy or the practicality of it.

 

[fashionlov]

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(Weibo: I-rma)

The first shot is very similar to previous Tory campaigns always taken by Hawkesworth. It's very reminiscent of the SS23 ADV

 

[fashionlov]

More pics
Via Tory Burch's Instagram account

 

[fashionlov]

And here 6 more
Via toryburch.com

 

[chrisand489]

 

[alwaysademo]

his gorgeous photography seems to stumble when it comes to less editorial clothes. Please pull a Mr. Penn Jamie and tuck the straight away, learn about fashion seriously and use it meaningfully, you're in it anyway.

 

[Urban Stylin]

Beautiful campaign looks better than many of the mainstream brands.

 

[WinstonH20]

his gorgeous photography seems to stumble when it comes to less editorial clothes. Please pull a Mr. Penn Jamie and tuck the straight away, learn about fashion seriously and use it meaningfully, you're in it anyway.

Well said. Hawkesworth's fashion work seems to excel in primarily in two contexts: street cast non-models in everyday 'fashion', and high fashion models in strong editorial looks. With this campaign, the idiosyncrasy of the everyday faces and the graphic compositions of strong editorial looks are missing, and the result falls a little flat. For a brand like Tory Burch, it kind of works for what it is though.

I also think the biggest issue with Hawkesworth is that his signature warm-toned, sun drenched and somewhat off-kilter aesthetic has been co-opted into the work of so many photographers in the past decade (Colin Dodgson, Theo de Gueltzl, even Alasdair McClellan and many of the newer generation of photographers immediately come to mind) that it no longer feels as potent or unique as it did in 2014/15. As you point out, I also feel he is just not that passionate about fashion itself.

Still, his black and white work remains extremely strong, as well as his more documentary focused work (in fashion and beyond).

 

[alwaysademo]

Well said. Hawkesworth's fashion work seems to excel in primarily in two contexts: street cast non-models in everyday 'fashion', and high fashion models in strong editorial looks. With this campaign, the idiosyncrasy of the everyday faces and the graphic compositions of strong editorial looks are missing, and the result falls a little flat. For a brand like Tory Burch, it kind of works for what it is though.

I also think the biggest issue with Hawkesworth is that his signature warm-toned, sun drenched and somewhat off-kilter aesthetic has been co-opted into the work of so many photographers in the past decade (Colin Dodgson, Theo de Gueltzl, even Alasdair McClellan and many of the newer generation of photographers immediately come to mind) that it no longer feels as potent or unique as it did in 2014/15. As you point out, I also feel he is just not that passionate about fashion itself.

Still, his black and white work remains extremely strong, as well as his more documentary focused work (in fashion and beyond).

I agree with all that you said above @WinstonH20 except, between Colin Dodgson and Theo and even Mclellan, once you see past the general similarities in style, I really prefer and identify with what's at the heart of Jamie's pictures. I think his collaborators do too: MAS, The Row, US Vogue, Loewe and some quieter brands like Issey come back to him often over the years... it's substance that keeps me following and rooting for him.

edit: this is a moment where he nailed the assignment by lifting both girl and garment:


Mica for LV. He seems to be comfortable around Mica though.

 

[Fiercification]

^ This campaign was beautiful and both Mica's images stood out in particular. One of the rare LV campaigns that didn't feel corporate.

Agree with both your sentiments and Winston on Jamie. I kind of went off his work between 2016 - 2022, with some exceptions but then latterly he's come through with some beautiful work - the aforementioned LV campaign, and his edits for W, particularly the one with Malgosia, which was really superb. It seemed as if his vision and execution had matured, at least as far as his fashion work goes. Until you get to this campaign...

He has a good synergy with Brian Molloy but this is really weak and as you've said, he can't elevate the clothes. Composition is weak and Mona in particular looks pedestrian. So perhaps there's still some growing to do? Jansson's campaigns for Tory Burch were more elevated because he can create a cinematic ambience even with more casual clothes (if you will). I liked that campaign with Sacha Quenby at least.

I also get the sense Jamie does need to fully embrace his fashion work as he's getting there but not fully in his element yet.

 

[RMDV]

So glad to see Chu - she looks amazing!

 

[alwaysademo]

^ This campaign was beautiful and both Mica's images stood out in particular. One of the rare LV campaigns that didn't feel corporate.

Agree with both your sentiments and Winston on Jamie. I kind of went off his work between 2016 - 2022, with some exceptions but then latterly he's come through with some beautiful work - the aforementioned LV campaign, and his edits for W, particularly the one with Malgosia, which was really superb. It seemed as if his vision and execution had matured, at least as far as his fashion work goes. Until you get to this campaign...

He has a good synergy with Brian Molloy but this is really weak and as you've said, he can't elevate the clothes. Composition is weak and Mona in particular looks pedestrian. So perhaps there's still some growing to do? Jansson's campaigns for Tory Burch were more elevated because he can create a cinematic ambience even with more casual clothes (if you will). I liked that campaign with Sacha Quenby at least.

I also get the sense Jamie does need to fully embrace his fashion work as he's getting there but not fully in his element yet.

Completely. And thank you for expanding on the topic, I'm glad other people share the same sentiment. I do feel that his colleagues have a sense of respect for his work so they always give him a kind of carte blanche. I'm glad it still happens to a few exceptions in 2024.

 

[fashionlov]

Two more

Via Breuninger

 

[fashionlov]

Mona's new shot. At the bottom right you can see the photographer's shadow.

Via Tory Burch official website

 

[TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]

I prefer Benjamin over Brian Molloy'styling, the current Tory is either too basic or too strange, never in the middle for a nice balance