Undercover F/W 2025.26 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[AnaD]

I don't mind a lot of this actually. Some of the outerwear is quite nice.

 

[yslforever]

Just loving the street clothes; there is some comforting attitude there that I'd like to see more irl.
The last 6 looks can burn though.

 

[Kanzai]

The note of this collection

 

[Nimsay]

Love it. So many great separates. Love the uneven white shawl collar sweater and the warped purple fleece.

The best look is the cobalt blue textured bomber with a floor length skirt. StreetChic.

 

[jeanclaude]

So many "undercover" references here: McQueen´s debut collection for Givenchy, AM at Gucci, Rick Owens, Patrick Kelly...

 

[MulletProof]

Interesting he thinks his Patti Smith collection is his best.. that was a great collection and a great year for fashion in general and probably as a designer in a highly competitive industry that still valued independent and creative minds. I would disagree though.. Fall 2006 is by far his best work for me, it conjures all the elements that are unique to him in the most sophisticated, dark, individualistic way.. it looked like nothing else at the time, no evident inspiration or reference, and definitely not the tragic 'please buy this' numbers we're so used to these days, and it has survived the test of time by still looking like a world of its own. That collection was like reaching the very top before a slow dive because.. what happened next (Spring 2007) and what has continued to happen intermittently in his career since then, with entire seasons sometimes overtaken by what looks like a crippling fear towards saleability, is sadly half of this collection, I definitely see Fall 2004 but watered down with the Undercover 'merch' he's mostly known for.

The last number looks kind of cool. It's not a bad collection but when he goes poetic and deep, he creates beautiful work. It would've been nice to see some introspective/retrospective balance for an anniversary collection.