Undercover S/S 2023 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[MulletProof]

That first part, right before the t-shirts, put me in such a high that I so do not mind the rest, not even the clothes so made for the SSense crowd. What a treat when he's in good spirits and makes these cohesive, joyful collections. The violent thumbnail clicking on that first part is the way my card would be all over this, Jun! .. cannot wait to get my hands on these pants with the cutouts.

Something about the opening look, despite the color, feels so smooth and not draining as you usually feel when designers resort to these entrances. Love it.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

That opening look is like visual sour candy. The shade they picked is just right for that intense minor retina burning and I like it for its colour based vulgarity. Plus, it's a pretty fantastic silhouette so that's another win.

Frankly, I enjoy this overall. It's in a similar space to Lutz Huelle with it's ease and accessibility but with just enough upsets to keep it interesting in both details and overall silhouettes.

 

[YohjiAddict]

Really nice show: bubbly, fresh and simple. A total contrast with his last show, which was so dark and menacing. It’s not even his best use of the slashing technique (that goes to F/W 2015.16) but it’s definitely a Paris highlight thus far.

It’s weird how similar it is to some shows we saw in New York and London (cut-outs, loud colors and some Lang references) but those collections didn’t excite me, whereas this, I just can’t enough of.

 

[LadyJunon]

That first part, right before the t-shirts, put me in such a high that I so do not mind the rest, not even the clothes so made for the SSense crowd.

I know I'll regret asking this, but what is the "Sense crowd"?

 

[Nomar]

Quite surprised that it’s a bit more toned down than his usual collections but still great nonetheless. The suiting is really strong and he also knows how to cut a fabulous pant.