Upcoming Shows & Exhibits

Fashion Exhibitions to See Besides the Obvious

by Chris Nelson A little exhibit at the Met has just opened (something about punk?). Here are other fashion exhibits worth a look...
Front Row: Chinese American Designers
Museum of Chinese in America, New York
April 26 - September 29, 2013
— Mary Ping curates this examination at Chinese-American designers who've found success in New York since the 80s, including Anna Sui, Jason Wu, Vera Wang, and Opening Ceremony's Humberto Leon and Carol Lim.
Artist/Rebel/Dandy: Men of Fashion
RISD Museum, Providence
April 28 - August 18, 2013
— The museum at the Rhode Island School of Design explores the dandy identity over two centuries. The shoe begins, naturally, with Beau Brummell and continues, curiously, through modern dandies Rick Owens and Patti Smith.
Club to Catwalk: London Fashion in the 1980s
Victoria and Albert Museum, London
July 10, 2013 - February 16, 2014
— Following its blockbuster David Bowie showcase (which remains on view through July 28), the V&A assembles 85 outfits for a major show on the outrageous club looks of the 1980s in London, an imaginative era that still informs contemporary collections.
Future Beauty: 30 Years of Japanese Fashion
Seattle Art Museum
June 27 – September 8, 2013
— The Seattle Art Museum will play host to a traveling exhibit featuring more than 100 outfits by game-changing Japanese designers, including Rei Kawakubo, Junya Watanabe, Yohji Yamamoto, Issey Miyake, Jun Takahashi, and Kenzo Takada, as well as younger names.
A Queer History of Fashion: From the Closet to the Catwalk
Museum at FIT, New York
September 13, 2013 - January 4, 2014
— This exhibition follows the extent to which gay men and women have made significant contributions to fashion for more than a century, touching on androgyny, dandyism, subculture, street styles, and drag.
The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk
Brooklyn Museum, New York
October 25, 2013 - February 23, 2014
— After stops in Montreal, Dallas, San Francisco, Madrid, and Rotterdam, this retrospective chronicles the startling breadth of Jean Paul Gaultier's contributions to both pop culture and couture.


hintmag.com
 
Beyond Rebellion: Fashioning the Biker Jacket

The Fashion Institute of Technology’s School of Graduate Studies and The Museum at FIT present Beyond Rebellion: Fashioning the Biker Jacket. Organized by graduate students in the Fashion and Textile Studies: History, Theory, Museum Practice program, the exhibition explores the genesis of the biker jacket and its evolution into a high-fashion garment. Beyond Rebellion: Fashioning the Biker Jacket traces the rise of the black leather jacket from utilitarian outerwear to iconic symbol of rebellion, function, and “cool.” Clothing from leading labels such as Jean Paul Gaultier, Yves Saint Laurent, and Rick Owens are featured. The biker jacket emerged in the early 20th century as a protective garment to shield motorcycle riders from the elements. Over the years, the mystique of the motorcycle jacket has attracted not only bikers, but movie stars, young adults, and fashion designers.
The exhibition opens with a Perfecto jacket by the American outerwear company Schott. The Perfecto style, introduced by Irving Schott in 1928, featured durable black leather horsehide, exposed zippers, metal snaps, and an asymmetrical front closure. By the 1950s, due in part to its appropriation by motorcycle gangs—associations fostered by movies such as The Wild One—the jacket had become an emblem of the outlaw biker. Other objects in this introductory section will show how the Perfecto’s iconic classic design and early history influenced fashion designers. This is exemplified by a 2009 Yves Saint Laurent jumpsuit that integrates characteristic design elements of the biker jacket, such as the asymmetrical front and exposed zippers.
The exhibition’s second section includes work by fashion designers inspired by the countercultural groups that adopted the biker jacket as an expression of social defiance. Punks and leathermen utilized design details such as metal embellishments and construction that exposed or exaggerated the body as a marker to stand out from the rest of society. Featured is a high-end jacket by Jean Paul Gaultier that incorporates a metal spike on each elbow and stitching details on the shoulders that recall armor and exaggerate the size of the upper body.
The final section explores avant-garde reinterpretations of the classic biker jacket that push the boundaries of its original symbolism and design. A 2005 Comme des Garçons ensemble from the bikerballerina collection juxtaposes a sculptural masculine black leather jacket with a girlish pink gingham and tulle skirt. While this ensemble and the Perfecto jacket of the 1950s serve very different functions and appeal to different consumers, the allure and mystique of the jacket remains.
Fashion Institute of Technology
Students in the Fashion and Textile Studies: History, Theory, Museum Practice MA program in FIT’s School of Graduate Studies have collaborated with The Museum at FIT to present Beyond Rebellion: Fashioning the Biker Jacket. The School of Graduate Studies provides advanced professional education in seven distinctive areas, promoting excellence in the post-baccalaureate study of fashion, business, art, and design. The school offers programs leading to the MA, MFA, and MPS degrees, and is dedicated to advancing research in the creative industries and fostering innovative collaborations that link students and faculty with industry and professional partners worldwide.
The Museum at FIT, which is accredited by the American Alliance of Museums, is part of the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT). It is the only museum in New York City dedicated solely to the art of fashion. Best known for its innovative and award-winning exhibitions, the museum has a collection of more than 50,000 garments and accessories dating from the 18th century to the present. Like other fashion museums, such as the Musée de la Mode, the Mode Museum, and the Museo de la Moda, The Museum at FIT collects, conserves, documents, exhibits, and interprets fashion. The museum’s mission is to advance knowledge of fashion through exhibitions, publications, and public programs. Visit fitnyc.edu/museum.
Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) is a State University of New York (SUNY) college of art, design, business, and technology that has been at the crossroads of commerce and creativity for 70 years. With programs that blend hands-on practice, a strong grounding in theory, and a broad-based liberal arts foundation, FIT offers career education in more than 45 areas, and grants associate, bachelor’s, and master’s degrees. FIT provides students with a complete college experience at an affordable cost, a vibrant campus life in New York City, and industry-relevant preparation for rewarding careers.
Museum Hours
Tuesday–Friday, noon–8 pm; Saturday, 10 am–5 pm. Closed Sunday, Monday, and legal holidays.
Admission is free.
 
for those who are/will be in paris

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1er mars 2014 au 31 août 2014

Les Arts Décoratifs – Mode et textile
107 rue de Rivoli
75001 Paris

Tél. : 01 44 55 57 50
Métro : Palais-Royal, Pyramides ou Tuileries
Autobus : 21, 27, 39, 48, 68, 69, 72, 81, 95

* i won't be able to get to paris for the show, but this is the next best thing...
looks and sounds fantastic...
http://charlieporter.net/stories/14155
 
The Dancing Designs of Modern Art Kimono


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Woman’s Kimono with Abstract Hemp-Leaf Pattern (Japan, early Shōwa period, c. 1935), silk plain weave, stencil-printed warp and weft (heiyō-gasuri meisen), Costume Council Fund (all photos © 2014 Museum Associates/LACMA)

Many of us, when we picture kimono, envision the traditional Japanese garment covered in similarly traditional images: blossoming floral motifs, soaring or leaping animals, mountain peaks and cresting seascapes in Ukiyo-e style. But cross-cultural exchange between Japan and the West started in earnest during the Meiji period (1868–1912), causing the spread of different technologies and styles in both directions. By the time the Shōwa period rolled around in 1926, Japanese kimono looked quite different than they once had, with patterns that that were far more abstract and modern.
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Woman’s Kimono with Undulating Vertical Lines
Japan (mid-Shōwa period, c. 1950), silk plain weave, stencil-printed warp and weft (heiyō-gasuri meisen), Costume Council Fund (photo © 2014 Museum Associates/LACMA)

Opening on Saturday, the Los Angeles County Museum of Art’s (LACMA) exhibition Kimono for a Modern Age surveys this period of Japanese fashion innovation. The show presents 30 never-before-seen kimono from LACMA’s permanent collection. All date to the first half of the 20th century — chronology you might guess just by looking at the garments, which show a strong affinity with modern art of the period.
“By the early Shōwa period (1926–89), vibrant and dynamic designs inspired by art movements such as Art Deco, Surrealism, and Abstract Expressionism, as well as patterns commemorating an important arctic expedition and the beginning of space exploration, appear on kimono,” says LACMA’s press release. The designs have the bright colors swaths of Fauvism and the bold, geometric patterns of Art Deco; the “undulating vertical lines” of one recall the curving script in Cy Twombly’s paintings. But this isn’t just simple borrowing — it’s the shaping of Western modes of art making to fit a distinctly Japanese form. The resulting garments are both artifacts of their time and amazingly current. Herewith, a few of the kimono from the show.
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Woman’s Unlined Kimono (hitoe) with Curvilinear Bands of Stripes (Japan, early Shōwa period, c. 1940), silk plain weave, stencil-printed weft (yokosŏ-gasuri meisen), purchased with funds provided by Grace Tsao

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Woman’s Kimono with Mountain Landscape (Japan, mid-Shōwa period, c. 1950), silk plain weave, stencil-printed warp and weft (heiyō-gasuri meisen), purchased with funds provided by Jacqueline Avant

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Woman’s Kimono with Geometric Pattern (Japan, early Shōwa period, c. 1940), silk crepe (omeshi meisen), stencil-printed warp and weft (heiyō-gasuri meisen), Costume Council Fund

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Woman’s Unlined Kimono (hitoe) with Waves and Dots (Japan, early Shōwa period, c. 1935), silk crepe (omeshi meisen), stencil-printed warp (hogushi-gasuri meisen), aluminum-leaf-paper-wrapped rayon supplementary weft, Costume Council Fund

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Woman’s Kimono with Large Dewdrops (Japan, early Shōwa period, c. 1935), silk plain weave, stencil-printed weft (yokosŏ-gasuri meisen), purchased with funds provided by Grace Tsao

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Woman’s Kimono with Diagonal and Vertical Stripes (Japan, mid-Shōwa period, c. 1950), silk plain weave, stencil-printed warp and weft (heiyō-gasuri meisen), purchased with funds provided by Grace Tsao

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Woman’s Kimono with Abstract Design (Japan, mid-Shōwa period, c. 1950), silk plain weave, stencil-printed warp and weft (heiyō-gasuri meisen), purchased with funds provided by Grace Tsao

Kimono for a Modern Age opens at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art (5905 Wilshire Boulevard, Los Angeles) on July 5.


hyperallergic.com
 
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Fifty Years Of John Waters

You couldn't pay me enough to see any of the fashion shows @ Lincoln Center..but an exhibit on John Waters, you don't need to ask me twice.

"The career of John Waters—one of the most influential and beloved underground filmmakers in the history of American movies—has a symmetry to it ironically at odds with his films’ trashy chaos. His first six features are enduring staples of the midnight-movie circuit: maniacal exercises in high-camp shock humor, each with the emotional pitch of an opera and content that wouldn’t be out of place in a psychological text on sexual fetishes. His next six—made with bigger budgets and well-known stars—find Waters refining his style and burrowing deeper into his favorite film genres, but they unmistakably represent attempts to subvert Hollywood from within. On top of their oft-discussed self-conscious irony and thematic obsessions (sex, celebrity, social exclusion), Waters’s movies, starring his friends (David Lochary, Mink Stole, Mary Vivian Pearce, and the immortal Divine), are also odes to the rhythm and texture of life in Baltimore and improbably tender visions of domestic communities held together by their own unsentimental, idiosyncratic forms of affection. One of the characters in Multiple Maniacs, turning to his current object of desire, perhaps best sums up the spirit of Waters’s life and work: “I love you so ****ing much I could ****.”

See more for less with a 3+ Film Package or get really filthy with a $99 Access Pass. Opening Night and Celluloid Atrocity Night are not included in the package or pass.

Wear your John Waters love with our bright pink tote, available for purchase online or in our theaters.

Plus, get Film Comment's digital anthology featuring John Waters's guilty pleasures, photography, and starlets for only 99 cents!"


http://www.filmlinc.com/films/series/50-years-of-john-waters-how-much-can-you-take
 
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Ryoji Ikeda • test pattern [times square] U.S. Premiere

Wed, Oct 1–Fri, Oct 31
11:57pm–midnight
Times Square
Free
Times Square
Check screen locations

Ryoji Ikeda’s test pattern is brought outdoors and reimagined for Times Square as the October Midnight Moment. From 11:57pm to midnight each night in October, 47 digital screens over five blocks will be taken over by tightly synchronized, flickering black-and-white imagery—mining data for mathematical beauty.

Exclusive Sound Experience
Midnight Moment Exclusive Sound Experience at Times Square

Thu, Oct 16, from 11:57pm–midnight
Duffy Square in Times Square

Enjoy Ryoji Ikeda’s test pattern [times square] with a special coordinated soundtrack. Headphones will be available to the public on a first-come/first-served basis to view the work as a fully immersive experience. Pick up your headphones starting at 11pm. Viewing will begin at 11:57pm.

* I went last night but decided not to get the headphones as there was a restricted area for people who were borrowing the equipment and I didn't want to have to stay with the crowd...
so i saw it the way it is being shown every night in October---
it's really quick but it's really good...
definitely recommend it...
wish I had known about it earlier so I could go see the concert at the Met...


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Ryoji Ikeda • superposition

Fri & Sat, Oct 17 & 18
at 7pm
Metropolitan Museum of Art
SOLD OUT
Please call 212-570-3949 for ticket availability.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art
1000 Fifth Avenue (at 82nd Street)
New York, NY 10028

A music, visual, and theater work at the intersection of art and science, superposition by Japanese composer and visual artist Ryoji Ikeda, is an immersive experience: an orchestrated journey through sound, language, physical phenomena, mathematical concepts, human behavior, and randomness, all simultaneously arranged and rearranged in a theatrical arc that obliterates the boundaries between music, visual arts, and performance.

fiaf
 
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I wanted to create a thread ... but I'm not sure ...
so Louis Vuitton Fondation opened earlier this week ...

some people were not happy about this, and posted on social media their torn invitation for the opening ... making the world knows about their feelings towards this opening.

Here is an interesting article, signed by very famous european intellectuals (writers, philosophers, curators etc.) .... Even Christian Bernard, 1 of the most influential european curator/director of Mamco (Geneva), signed it.
:shock: and let me tell you he counts amongst his friends some of the richest collectors in the world ... B)
That guy is soooo nice and smart, and everything. i could listen to him for hours ...

L'art n'est-il qu'un produit de luxe?
20 OCTOBRE 2014 | PAR LES INVITÉS DE MEDIAPART

La Fondation Louis-Vuitton, un nouveau musée d'art contemporain créé par Bernard Arnault dans le Bois de Boulogne, est inaugurée ce lundi 20 octobre par François Hollande. Des écrivains, des philosophes, des artistes critiquent le rôle croissant des grands groupes financiers dans l'art contemporain et dénoncent les « nobles mécènes » qui « ne sont en vérité que des spéculateurs ».

Le rôle toujours croissant, dans l’art contemporain, des grands groupes financiers liés à l’industrie du luxe y suscite encore moins de débats que celui des tyrannies pétrolières. Les intellectuels, critiques et artistes qui œuvrent ici, pourtant traditionnellement enclins aux postures « radicales » et aux discours contestataires, semblent aujourd’hui tétanisés par la peur d’une fuite des capitaux, comme si la plus petite réserve émise les exposait à des représailles qui les frapperaient au portefeuille. Dans ce milieu pourtant bavard, et qui sut être quelquefois frondeur, une véritable omertà règne dès qu’il s’agit de financement. Lorsqu'on émet des doutes sur le désintéressement de tel ou tel patron (au sens de « mécène »), on se voit répondre en général que nul n’est dupe, mais qu’il n’y a pas d’alternative – c’est la fameuse TINA (There Is No Alternative). Le désengagement des États, appauvris par une crise où les mêmes grands financiers ont joué un rôle majeur, condamnerait en effet le monde de l’art et de la culture à mendier chez les très riches.

Nous ne nous posons pas en modèles de vertu. Qui n'a, dans ce milieu, participé un jour ou l'autre aux manifestations d'une fondation privée ? Mais quand les plus grosses fortunes de France rivalisent pour intervenir massivement dans la production artistique, les arguments classiques en faveur de ce type de financement nous paraissent faibles et hypocrites.

On insiste toujours, lors des manifestations artistiques ainsi « sponsorisées », sur l’étanchéité de la séparation entre l’activité commerciale du « sponsor » et l’activité culturelle de la fondation qui porte son nom. De fait, il fut un temps où de grands mécènes aidaient les arts sans se mettre en avant. Ils se contentaient d’une mention en corps 8 au bas d’une troisième page de couverture, d’une plaque émaillée au coin d’un édifice, d’un mot de remerciement en préambule. Mais notre époque est aux annonces fracassantes, aux fêtes pharaoniques et aux publicités géantes. On ne donne plus carte blanche à un artiste en demeurant dans l’ombre : on lui commande la décoration d’une boutique sur les Champs-Élysées ou la mise en scène de l’inauguration d’une succursale à Tokyo. Le magasin de sacs n’est séparé de la galerie que par une mince cloison, et des œuvres viennent se mêler aux accessoires, eux-mêmes présentés sur des socles et pourvus d’un cartouche. Les boutiques de luxe, désormais, se veulent le prototype d’un monde où la marchandise serait de l’art parce que l’art est marchandise, un monde où tout serait art parce que tout est marchandise. Il est vrai que les nouveaux maîtres du marché de l’art ont su, en leur faisant des passerelles d’or, débaucher les experts et les commissaires les plus réputés, contribuant ainsi à l’appauvrissement intellectuel de nos institutions publiques. Mais ce n’est aucunement pour leur donner les moyens de servir une idée de l’art en tant que tel, car le patron ne cesse d’intervenir dans des transactions qui l’intéressent au plus au point.

Pas plus qu’il n’y a d’étanchéité entre les affaires et les choses de l’art, il n’y a, en effet, d’innocence ou de désintéressement dans les aides que ces gens dispensent. Leurs employés ont bien soin de rappeler que le mécénat est une ancienne et noble tradition. Sans remonter au Romain Mécène – délicat ami des poètes – ils citent Laurent de Médicis, Jacques Doucet ou Peggy Guggenheim, dont messieurs Pinault et Arnault seraient les dignes successeurs. Quand bien même ils seraient ces gentils amateurs éclairés que nous dépeignent les pages Culture des journaux – et non les affairistes que nous révèlent leurs pages Économie –, les faits comptables parlent d’eux-mêmes.

L’essence du véritable mécénat est dans le don, la dépense sèche ou, pour parler comme Georges Bataille, « improductive ». Les vrais mécènes perdent de l’argent, et c’est par là seulement qu’ils méritent une reconnaissance collective. Or, ni monsieur Pinault ni monsieur Arnault ne perdent un centime dans les arts. Non seulement ils y défiscalisent une partie des bénéfices qui ne se trouvent pas déjà dans quelque paradis fiscal, mais ils acquièrent eux-mêmes, pour plus de profit, des salles de ventes, et ils siphonnent l’argent public (comme avec la récente exposition si bien nommée À double tour de la Conciergerie) pour des manifestations qui ne visent qu’à faire monter la cote de la poignée d’artistes sur lesquels ils ont provisoirement misé. Ils faussent le marché en s’appropriant tous les maillons de sa chaîne, en cherchant à faire et défaire des gloires. En un mot, ils spéculent, avec la collaboration active des grandes institutions publiques, qui échangent faveurs contre trésorerie. Déjà premières fortunes de France, ils s’enrichissent ainsi, encore et toujours plus, au moyen de l’art. Ceux qui se présentent à nous comme de nobles mécènes ne sont en vérité que des spéculateurs. Qui ne le sait ? Mais qui le dit ?

Un argument plus faible encore en faveur de ce mode de financement pour l’art en appelle au respect de l’esprit d’entreprise et à l’égard dû aux intérêts industriels de la France. Ne doit-on pas reconnaissance à ces fleurons du CAC 40 pour l’aide qu’ils apportent à la création ? Il suffit pourtant d’un coup d’œil sur l’histoire de groupes financiers comme ceux des frères ennemis Kering-Pinault et LVMH-Arnault pour comprendre qu’il ne s’agit plus, et depuis longtemps, de groupes industriels. Leur politique est clairement, strictement, financière, et la seule logique du profit détermine pour eux abandons et acquisitions d’entreprises. Viennent de l’apprendre à leurs dépens plus de mille femmes licenciées après avoir consacré leur vie professionnelle à La Redoute. La grande entreprise d’aujourd’hui a perdu l’usine dans le flux tendu ; elle a égaré sa production industrielle dans la jungle asiatique. Sa politique du tiroir-caisse et de l’évasion fiscale n’a plus rien à faire des intérêts nationaux, comme le prouve le récent coup d’éclat de monsieur Arnault en Belgique. Il s’agit de la politique même – obsédée par les dividendes et le profit à court terme – qui a provoqué la plus grave crise économique de ces cinquante dernières années, a mis à genoux des nations entières et a jeté dans la misère et le désespoir des millions de nos voisins européens.

Mais qu’importe l’immoralité du capitalisme incarné par ces nouveaux princes, nous dit-on : les manifestations artistiques ne sont d’aucune conséquence pour eux, qui agissent à une autre échelle. Cet argument cynique se heurte à l’évidence de l’orchestration médiatique. Car la nouvelle culture entrepreneuriale croit en l’« événementiel » comme en un nouveau Dieu. La finance et la communication ont remplacé l’outil industriel et la force de vente. Or l’art, bon ou mauvais, produit de l’événement, souvent pour son malheur et quelquefois malgré lui. Il fluctue comme l’argent, et son mouvement même peut devenir valeur boursière. Pour une société qui se rêve rapide, indexée sur les flux, il a le profil même de l’objet du désir. Il offre donc aux nouveaux consortiums financiers une vitrine idéale. Il peut être brandi par eux comme leur projet existentiel. Et pour que cette symbiose néolibérale soit viable, il suffit que l’art s’y laisse absorber, que les artistes renoncent à toute autonomie. Rien d’étonnant, alors, à ce que l’académisme d’aujourd’hui soit designé : chic et lisse, choc et photogénique, il est facilement emballé dans le white cube du musée, facilement déballé dans le cul de basse fosse des châteaux de cartes financiers. Les musées privés de nos milliardaires sont les palais industriels d’aujourd’hui.

Pouvons-nous encore croire que l’appropriation de notre travail et la caution de notre présence ne sont qu’un élément négligeable de leur stratégie ? Il en est, parmi nous, qui se disent non seulement de gauche, mais marxistes, voire révolutionnaires. Peuvent-ils se satisfaire d’une telle dérobade ? La puissance écrasante de l'ennemi en fait-elle un ami ? En ces temps de chômage de masse, de paupérisation des professions intellectuelles, de démantèlement des systèmes de protection sociale et de lâcheté gouvernementale, n’avons-nous pas mieux à faire, artistes, écrivains, philosophes, curateurs et critiques, que de dorer le blason de l’un de ces Léviathan financiers, que de contribuer, si peu que ce soit, à son image de marque ? Il nous semble urgent, en tout cas – à l’heure où une fondation richissime a droit, pour son ouverture, à une célébration par le Centre Beaubourg de son architecte star (Frank Gehry) – d’exiger des institutions publiques qu’elles cessent de servir les intérêts de grands groupes privés en se calant sur leurs choix artistiques. Nous n'avons pas de leçon de morale à donner. Nous voulons seulement ouvrir un débat qui se fait attendre, et dire pourquoi nous ne voyons pas matière à réjouissance dans l'inauguration de la Fondation Louis-Vuitton pour l'art contemporain.

Pierre Alferi, écrivain
Giorgio Agamben, philosophe
Madeleine Aktypi, écrivain
Jean-Christophe Bailly, écrivain
Jérôme Bel, chorégraphe
Christian Bernard, directeur du Musée d'art moderne et contemporain (Mamco) de Genève
Robert Cahen, artiste
Fanny de Chaillé, chorégraphe
Jean-Paul Curnier, philosophe
Pauline Curnier-Jardin, artiste
Sylvain Courtoux, écrivain
François Cusset, écrivain
Frédéric Danos, artiste
Georges Didi-Huberman, historien d’art
Suzanne Doppelt, écrivain
Stéphanie Éligert, écrivain
Dominique Figarella, artiste
Alexander García Düttmann, philosophe
Christophe Hanna, écrivain
Lina Hentgen, artiste
Gaëlle Hippolyte, artiste
Manuel Joseph, écrivain
Jacques Julien, artiste
Suzanne Lafont, artiste
Xavier LeRoy, chorégraphe
Philippe Mangeot, membre de la rédaction de Vacarme
Christian Milovanoff, artiste
Marie José Mondzain, philosophe
Jean-Luc Nancy, philosophe
Catherine Perret, philosophe
Olivier Peyricot, designer
Paul Pouvreau, artiste
Paul Sztulman, critique
Antoine Thirion, critique
Jean-Luc Verna, artiste
Christophe Wavelet, critique


jerome bel's invitation
 

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Google Translation

Is art only a luxury good ?

The Louis Vuitton Foundation , a new contemporary art museum designed by Bernard Arnault in the Bois de Boulogne, is inaugurated on Monday, October 20 by Francois Hollande. Writers , philosophers , artists criticize the growing role of large financial groups in contemporary art and denounce the " noble patrons " that "are in fact only speculators ."

The ever-increasing role in contemporary art, large financial groups linked to the luxury industry are still the subject of debate less than oil tyrannies . Intellectuals , critics and artists working here, though traditionally prone postures "radical" speech and protest , now seem paralyzed by the fear of capital flight, as if the smallest reservation exposed them to reprisals that would strike the portfolio. In this environment yet talkative, and knew how to be rebellious sometimes , a real omerta reigns when it comes to funding. When doubts about the impartiality of a particular pattern (in the sense of " patron ") , see you respond in general that no one is fooled, but there is no alternative - c is the famous TINA ( There Is No Alternative) . The withdrawal of state , impoverished by a crisis in which the same major financial played a major role , in fact condemn the world of art and culture to beg from the very wealthy.

We do not ask for models of virtue . Who has not, in this environment , participated at one time or other manifestations of a private foundation ? But when the richest men of France compete to intervene heavily in the production of art , the classic case for this type of funding seem weak and hypocritical .

We always insist, at art events and " sponsored " the seal of the separation between the commercial activity of "sponsor" and the cultural activity of the foundation that bears his name. In fact, there was a time when great patrons of the arts without helping himself forward . They just mention a body in 8 down a third cover page, a glazed corner of a building plate, a thank you in the introduction. But our time is the earth-shattering announcements , Pharaonic festivals and giant advertisements. It no longer gives carte blanche to an artist living in the shadow : he was commissioned to decorate a store on the Champs- Élysées or the staging of the opening of a branch in Tokyo. The bag shop is separated from the gallery by a thin partition , and works mingle accessories, presented themselves on pedestals and fitted with a cartridge. Luxury boutiques , now want the prototype is of a world where the goods would be art because art is a commodity , a world where everything is art because everything is a commodity . It is true that the new masters of the art market have known , making them gold gateways, poach experts and the most reputable commissioners, thus contributing to the intellectual poverty of our public institutions. But it is by no means to enable them to serve an idea of ​​art as such , because the boss is constantly involved in transactions of interest to the more developed.

Nor that there is a seal between the business and the things of the art, there is , in fact, innocent or disinterested in aids these people provide. Their employees are careful to remember that sponsorship is an ancient and noble tradition. Without going back to the Roman patron - delicate friend of poets - they cite Lorenzo de 'Medici , Jacques Doucet or Peggy Guggenheim , whose gentlemen Pinault and Arnault are worthy successors . Even though they would be these kind enlightened amateurs we portray Culture pages of newspapers - not the profiteers that reveal their pages Economics - accounting facts speak for themselves.

The essence of true philanthropy is in the gift , dry expense or , to speak like Georges Bataille, " unproductive ". The real benefactors are losing money , and that's where they deserve only a collective recognition. Neither Mr. Pinault nor Mr. Arnault did lose a penny in the arts. Not only are they défiscalisent part of the profits that are not already in a tax haven, but they develop themselves for greater profit, sales rooms , and they siphon off public money (as with the recent exhibition aptly named dual tower Building ) for events that aim only to raise the rating of the handful of artists in which they temporarily wagered. They distort the market by taking over all the links in the chain , trying to do and undo glories . In a word, they speculate , with the active collaboration of major public institutions, exchanging favors against cash . Already early fortunes of France , they enrich and again and again more by means of art. Those who come to us as noble patrons are in fact only speculators. Who knows ? Who says so?

A weaker argument yet in favor of this method of financing for art calls for respect for the entrepreneurial spirit and the respect due to the industrial interests of France . Do not we must recognize these jewels of the CAC 40 for their assistance in the creation ? Yet it only takes a glance at the history of financial groups like those of rival brothers Kering - Pinault and Arnault LVMH to understand that it is more and long , industry groups . Their policy is clear , strictly financial , and the only logic of profit determines for them leaving and acquisitions. Come to learn the hard way over a thousand women dismissed after having devoted their professional lives to La Redoute . Today big business lost factory in lean ; it lost its industrial production in the Asian jungle. His political cash drawer and tax evasion has nothing to do national interests, as evidenced by the recent bang of Mr. Arnault Belgium. This is the same policy - obsessed with dividends and short-term profit - which caused the worst economic crisis of the past fifty years, knelt entire nations and thrown into misery and despair millions of our European neighbors.

But no matter the immorality of capitalism embodied in these new princes , we are told : artistic events are of no consequence to them , acting on a different scale . This cynical argument is contrary to the evidence of media orchestration. Because the new entrepreneurial culture believes in the "event " as a new God . Finance and communication have replaced manufacturing facilities and sales force . Now art , good or bad , produces the event, often to his misfortune , and sometimes in spite of himself . It fluctuates as money, and even movement can become shareholder value. For a society that is quick dream, indexed to flow, it has the same profile of the object of desire. It therefore offers new syndicates ideal showcase . It can be wielded by them as their existential project . And for this neoliberal symbiosis be viable only if the leaves will absorb art , the artists give up any autonomy. No wonder , then , that today the academy is inscribed : classy and smooth, shock and photogenic , it is easily packed into the white cube of the museum, easily unwrapped in the *** bass pit castles financial cards. Private museums of our billionaires are industrial palace today .

Can we still believe that ownership of our work and the security of our presence is only a negligible part of their strategy ? He is among us who claim not only left, but Marxists or revolutionaries. Can they be satisfied with such a cop ? The overwhelming power of the enemy she made ​​a friend ? In a time of mass unemployment , impoverishment of intellectual professions , dismantling social protection systems and governmental cowardice , do not we have better things to do , artists, writers , philosophers, curators and critics , as the brown crest of one of these financial Leviathan, to contribute , however little it may be, to its image ? It seems urgent, anyway - at a time when a wealthy foundation is entitled to its opening, a celebration by the Centre Beaubourg his star architect (Frank Gehry ) - requiring public institutions to cease to serve the interests of large private groups , leaning on their artistic choices. We have no moral lesson to give. We only want to open a debate that is not forthcoming, and why we see no cause for celebration in the opening of the Louis Vuitton Foundation for Contemporary Art.
 
Feb 03 2015


Book Launch | THE LOOK with Elizabeth Diller, Dennis Freedman, Matthew Monteith and Henry Urbach

Tues | 6:30 pm


Swiss Institute and ARTBOOK invite you to join Elizabeth Diller, Dennis Freedman and Matthew Monteith in a conversation moderated by Henry Urbach celebrating the publication of THE LOOK, by Diller Scofidio + Renfro with Matthew Monteith.
Commissioned by the DESTE Foundation for Contemporary Art
Elizabeth Diller is a founding principal at Diller Scofidio + Renfro, a 115-person interdisciplinary design studio that integrates architecture, the visual arts, and the performing arts. Recent and ongoing projects include the renovation of Lincoln Center, the High Line, the ICA Boston, and CultureSHED in Hudson Yards.
Dennis Freedman is the Creative Director of Barneys New York and was formerly the Creative Director of W Magazine for 10 years. He has also edited books by Philip-Lorca diCorcia, and Maurizio Cattelan.
Matthew Monteith, a former Fulbright Scholar and recipient of the Abigail Cohen Rome Prize in Photography from The American Academy in Rome, is currently Assistant Professor of Photography at the Massachusetts College of Art and Design in Boston. His editorial work has appeared in many magazines, including GQ, The New York Times Magazine, Interview, W, and Dwell. In 2007, Aperture published his monograph Czech Eden.
Henry Urbach is the Director of the Philip Johnson Glass House and previously served as Curator of Architecture and Design at the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art (SFMOMA).
The Look In 2013 the Deste Foundation commissioned Diller, Scofidio + Renfro to curate a capsule collection and integrate the selected works into an independent project. The Look, a narrative in 18 scenes about youth, aging and identity, examines the notion of the classic in fashion and architecture.
Please RSVP to [email protected]




ZF3ayvPdaRrzxm4MCw6nXod0pzzmurHQUyBjENO5Bpmvs4ieerajtOxxpIYig1kRy05QoZz0U4UQ41Ti7PhJBJz51EpfhuWbUxzX67CL5_rofr8apRcmajogTV6WOJHCv-PnUJH7uBfH9op8lFGAlg=s0-d-e1-ft
 
nya nya nya...
two of my fave things...
japan and cats!...

:woot:...:clap:...:bounce:...

LIFE OF CATS: SELECTIONS FROM THE HIRAKI UKIYO-E COLLECTION
Fri, Mar 13 – Sun, Jun 7, 2015

Since arriving in Japan aboard Japanese ships transporting sacred Buddhist scriptures from China in the mid-sixth century, cats have proceeded to purr and paw their way into the heart of Japanese life, folklore, and art. Life of Cats: Selections from the Hiraki Ukiyo-e Collection illustrates the depth of this mutual attraction by mining the wealth of bravura depictions of cats to be found in ukiyo-e woodblock prints of the Edo Period (1615-1867).

Ninety ukiyo-e prints in the exhibition are on loan from the esteemed Hiraki Ukiyo-e Foundation whose holdings are revered in Japan. Select prints, paintings, sculptures, and other works borrowed from U.S. collections complement these prints, making the exhibition over 120 artworks. With cross-cultural and multi-generational appeal, Life of Cats takes viewers on a wild ride through Japan’s love affair with our feline friends.

Roughly 50 items will be replaced with new works halfway through Life of Cats—Rotation 1 will be on view from March 13 until April 26; Rotation 2 will be on view from April 29 until June 7.

Life of Cats is divided into five sections: Cats and People, Cats as People, Cats versus People, Cats Transformed and Cats and Play.
japansociety.com

here's a screencap...
 

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^ That looks like a fun exhibition. Too bad it´s not in the UK.
 

Björk

March 8–June 7, 2015

The Museum of Modern Art presents a retrospective of the multifaceted work of composer, musician, and singer Björk.
The exhibition draws from more than 20 years of the artist’s daring and innovative projects and her eight full-length albums to chronicle her career through sound, film, visuals, instruments, objects, and costumes. In the Museum lobby, instruments used on Biophilia (2011)—a gameleste, pipe organ, gravity harp, and Tesla coil—play songs from the album at different points throughout the day. On the second floor, in the Marron Atrium, two spaces have been constructed: one is dedicated to a new sound and video installation, commissioned by The Museum of Modern Art, for “Black Lake,” a song from Björk’s new album Vulnicura (2015); and the second is a cinema room that screens a retrospective in music videos, from Debut (1993) to Biophilia. On the third floor, Songlines presents an interactive, location-based audio experience through Björk’s albums, with a biographical narrative that is both personal and poetic, written by the acclaimed Icelandic writer Sjón, along with many visuals, objects, and costumes, including the robots designed by Chris Cunningham for the “All Is Full of Love” music video, Marjan Pejowski’s Swan Dress (2001), and Iris van Herpen’s Biophilia tour dress (2013), among many others.
Entry to the Björk exhibition is included with general Museum admission. Timed tickets are required for the Songlines portion of the exhibition, and are available same-day and on-site only, at no additional charge, on a first-come, first-served basis, beginning at 10:30 a.m. daily.
MoMA members may reserve same-day tickets for Songlines on-site only, at no additional charge, on a first-come, first-served basis, beginning at 8:30 a.m. daily. Timed tickets are required for the Songlines portion of the exhibition during Member Previews and Member Early Hours. Exclusive Member Early Hours will be held daily between 8:30 and 10:30 a.m. Member Early Hours are open to MoMA members, with the exception of Global members. Space is limited.

moma.org

 
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Lauren Bacall: The Look
Gallery FIT
March 3 – April 4, 2015

Join the conversation on Twitter using hashtag #BacallTheLook. View the online exhibition for more, including a gallery guide and lesson plan.

Lauren Bacall: The Look is the first exhibition to exclusively celebrate the film and theater star’s unique style. Bacall’s own garments take the spotlight in this exhibition, which also explores Bacall’s personal relationships with several of the fashion designers who dressed her. Organized by graduate students in the Fashion and Textile Studies: History, Theory, Museum Practice MA program, this exhibition examines Bacall’s distinctive style within the context of her modeling, film, and theater careers.

Selections from Bacall’s personal wardrobe, as well as from her film and stage roles, are displayed alongside photographs, magazine pieces, film posters, and archival footage. Approximately one dozen garments have been selected from a collection of 700 that Bacall donated to the museum between 1968 and 1986. Lauren Bacall: The Look includes work by designers Marc Bohan, Pierre Cardin, Norman Norell, Yves Saint Laurent, and Emanuel Ungaro, focusing on pieces from the 1960s and 1970s.
The exhibition opens with a photograph of Bacall at age 19, taken by Louise Dahl-Wolfe and chosen by Harper’s Bazaar editor Diana Vreeland for the magazine’s March 1943 cover. The photograph shows Bacall’s full, natural eyebrows and softly waved hair—along with the alluring look of ease and self-confidence that became her trademark. Other images that demonstrate how “The Look” evolved are included in the exhibition.
A vivid pink wool coat by Norman Norell, worn by Bacall in the 1964 film Sex and the Single Girl, is on display. Bacall established an ongoing relationship with Norell, as well as with a number of other important designers. In 1968, she hosted "Bacall and the Boys," a CBS television special that presented the fall collections of some of her favorite designers. The exhibition displays photographs of Bacall with her “boys,” who include Marc Bohan, Pierre Cardin, Yves Saint Laurent, and Emanuel Ungaro. Clips from the television special, along with a selection of the garments Bacall wore in it, are in the exhibition. Highlights include a Cardin mini-dress and a Christian Dior evening gown. The fuchsia Cardin dress is devoid of adornment but is accented with molded 3D pyramid shapes. Ostrich plumes at the wrists and hem of the silk jersey Dior gown give it a dramatic flair. Bold design choices such as these extended to Bacall’s off-screen wardrobe as well, as seen in a Norell “subway coat” ensemble. A modest tan overcoat opens to reveal a lining emblazoned with gold sequins and a matching sequin sheath dress. A beaded ensemble by Yves Saint Laurent demonstrates Bacall’s audacious attitude when it came to dressing.

Throughout her life, Bacall borrowed style cues from menswear. Examples in the exhibition include an ivory silk pantsuit by Norell and a black silk pantsuit by Ungaro. Both are impeccably cut and share certain elements: wide legs, high waistlines, and kerchiefs at the neck that reference a man’s tie. Images of Bacall relaxing at home complement these garments. While the photographs were taken decades apart, Bacall’s look from one to the other is remarkably unchanged and altogether chic. Her ease and confidence were ever-present elements of “The Look.”

*saw this today...it was quite good...the highlight was a film of her with several designers inc- YSL, Pierre Cardin, etc...
small but stunning...


fit.edu
:flower:
 

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Yves Saint Laurent + Halston: Fashioning the ’70s


celebrates the two designers who defined the sexy and glamorous fashions of the 1970s. This is the first exhibition to juxtapose their work and analyze the way they dealt with similar themes and aesthetics during the height of their careers. Both designers are equally represented by the approximately 80 ensembles and 20 accessories that are arranged thematically in an environment designed to evoke the style of this singular, dynamic era in history.

Drawn exclusively from the holdings of The Museum at FIT, the exhibition offers a unique perspective on two of the best-known fashion designers in modern history. The museum’s collections hold the Halston archives—the most comprehensive records of his work in the world—as well as a vast array of significant Yves Saint Laurent pieces donated by important clients, fashion editors, friends, and colleagues of Saint Laurent. These include Lauren Bacall, Marina Schiano, Aimée de Heeren, Mary Russell, and Tina Chow. It is worth noting that the first major retrospective exhibition on Halston was organized at the museum in 1991 by the late curator Richard Martin.

*also saw this today...
it's small but very interesting...
i guessed who designed what wrong about 20 % of the time, which really surprised me...
a fun show...


fit.edu
 
Stage Design by Ming Cho Lee
April 28, 2016 - September 11, 2016


Stage Design by Ming Cho Lee is a retrospective exhibition of celebrated and influential set designer Ming Cho Lee (b. 1930, Shanghai, China) that features original scale models, sketches, and photographic reproductions. The exhibition provides an in-depth exploration of Ming Cho Lee's creative process by displaying the preparatory materials for his set designs alongside documentation of the performances, and chronicling the evolution of his practice from his groundbreaking, abstract set designs of the 1960s and 70s to his more recent hard-edge treatments. For over fifty years, Ming Cho Lee has served on the faculty at Yale School of Drama, including as the co-chair of the design department. As a recipient of the National Medal of Arts in 2002 and the Tony Award® for lifetime achievement in 2013, Ming Cho Lee is one of the most acclaimed living set designers in the U.S. This exhibition is a project of The New York Public Library for the Performing Arts.

Stage Design by Ming Cho Lee and related programs are made possible by public funds from the New York State Council on the Arts with the support of Governor Andrew Cuomo and the New York Legislature. MOCACREATE and other educational programs are generously supported by the Wells Fargo Foundation and the J.T. Tai & Co. Foundation.

Image credit: Electra, Collection of Billy Rose Theatre, August 5, 1964, Delacorte Theater, New York Shakespeare Festival

moca.com
 
The Work of Issey Mikake- National Art Centre, Tokyo

An exhibition devoted to designer Issey Miyake will run from Wednesday, March 16 to Monday, June 13, 2016 at the National Art Center, Tokyo. The Center has considered design to be an important exhibition theme since it opened in 2007 and is devoted to presenting a wide range of artistic expressions and proposing new perspectives. This exhibition, MIYAKE ISSEY EXHIBITION: The Work of Miyake Issey, promises to be an unprecedented event, focusing on the entirety of Miyake’s 45-year career, from 1970 to the present.
Miyake has consistently presented new methodologies and possibilities for making clothes, while always focusing on the future. It all began in 1960 when Miyake, a student at Tama Art University, sent a letter to the World Design Conference, which was being held for the first time in Japan that year. The letter took issue with the fact that clothing design was not included in the event. At that point, Miyake’s notion that clothing is not merely “fashion” ― i.e., something that changes with the times ― but a form of design that is closely connected to our lives on a much more universal level was already apparent. Miyake has always explored the relationship between a piece of cloth and the body, and the space that is created as a result, unrestricted by any existing framework. In addition, along with his team of designers, he persistently undertakes research and development to create clothing that combines both innovation and comfort.
This exhibition will shed light on Miyake’s ideas about making things and his approach to design by examining his entire career, from his earliest work to his latest projects, and his explorations of greater creative possibilities in the future. This exhibition will provide viewers with an opportunity to expand the boundaries of their thought and stimulate their creativity, allowing everyone, young and old alike, to experience the joy of creation.

Source: nacp.jp

I hope this goes on tour!
 

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