Valentino F/W 2025.26 Paris

susannanicoletti.substack.com/p/2025-the-great-gatsby-syndrome-of

Valentino. It seems that people are nervous and tense in piazza Mignanelli. It seems that the business is not peaking up.
Especially the leather goods. Wasn’t Michele the genius of best seller bags?

I mean, is anyone surprised? The bread and butter of Valentino was the accessories, which MGC and PP set up pretty early on in their tenure.

Alessandro is a designer that does not live in the reality of the fashion landscape right now. He thinks: I'll do fantasy and extravaganza and everyone will just come running for my vision. But it's like no. That worked at Gucci but that was ten years ago. In the year 2025 that approach is not as fresh and clearly not resonating with the current clientele.

I heard the Haute Couture was an absolute flop. A lot of the clientele were delighted by the theatre of the show, but when it came to the actual pieces and wearability, they pretty much rejected it. I know a few women who flat out told the people in the salon they preferred Pierpaolo.

For me, he has lost touch with reality completely. This collection is proof of that. And the fact that the accessories are flopping, but he isn't really putting any focus or real effort into them - well that just tells you everything you need to know about this guy.
 
Currently uploading pictures from this show to the models’ threads and nearly just accidentally titled a post with "Gucci FW25"… that’s when you know it’s bad 😭
 
The archival references are exhausting. I mean he’s already done the Valentino archive to death at Gucci, so it has little impact here.

I’m sure the pieces individually are splendid, for the most part, but everything else is just vertigo inducing vomit. Poor styling, odd makeup, BAAAAAAD models and their inability to walk properly and a nonsensical set. Based on the music as it ramped up, I wonder of Michele was enamoured by the sound design of The Substance…
 
disjointed, all over the place, tryhard, impractical and deranged
 
There is some really good tailoring here but lot of this is just soo heavy handed and stale. The suits at Valentino need to get Carine Roitfeld and tell AM how to create a modern, sophisticated yet sexy show. That being said in stores , lot of this sh!t looks good , AM for all this weirdness knows how to put out nice tailored pant suits.
 
hate the whole "let me just put some archival looks and drown it with whatever i found from grandmas attic"
 

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