Versace F/W 2022.23 Milan

[Cocteau Stone]

I've recently watched the Versace Spring/Summer 2005 collection, and although it isn't their best, the aura it has is just magnificent. The Psychedelic Waltons' "Alice in Wonderland" ft. Roisin opening the show with Isebeli slinking down that runway has way more impact than any recent Versace shows.

Visually, they need to strip it back. They're always peddling wares and accessories to the point where the Versace woman doesn't seem strong or commanding, but a mere billboard for pointless tchotchkes and odd styling/design tricks. Just because there's exposed corsets, latex and power shoulders doesn't mean it looks strong and commanding.

 

[liberty33r1b]

attention seeking gen-z will love this for everyone else it‘s an eyesore

 

[disco54]

Those low rise pants are just godawful, I never want to see low-rise pants ever again.

 

[Ruito]

This was really a disaster! The silhouettes were all so unflattering! The color palette too was atrocious and poorly mixed. Most of all, it felt very "dated"!

 

[Lola701]

Very Millenial/IG fashion…
I don’t hate it because I think that there are some propositions a grown woman or older Versace customer can get into.

I just feel like this collection does not have that much to offer in terms of fashion proposition or fresh ideas…Or even something thougth-provoking. It’s very mass taste… The latex, the shoes…Very done.

Versace is experiencing a great time commercially. It’s maybe the first time since Donatella took over the brand that she is touching the youth again.
My generation totally passed over Versace. We didn’t have a sensibility for Donatella’s work. Versus used to be her outlet for the youth but it wasn’t until Kane took over that people desired it. The mainline was either too mature, too redcarpet-ish or too tacky sometimes.

Today, the youth are buying her clothes and her accessories. I can’t be upset for her for trying to sell to that youth what they want. I just wish she offered something more. I think Versace can do beautiful draping for example. The same old bodycon silk jersey and corsets are boring.

 

[vogue28]

I'm able to appreciate the vast majority of this, especially the latex and distressed tweed elements of the collection (and Bente's platinum hair). I watched the live stream, was waiting for some excitement and the ending where the models came out and posed behind the screens delivered just that!

 

[caioherrero]

I love this collection

 

[charles01]

I personally really enjoyed the the collection!

I found the corsets and boning to be a nice nod to Gianni (S/S 1995), yet still brought them into the 21st century.

Also, the shoes were enjoyable, I’m not surprised Donatella went for platforms again, considering the popularity of the platforms from A/W 21. I also loved the latex, but I love latex clothing in general!

The tweed was also nice!

Overall, I like it and think the sales will be pretty good…

 

[TianCouture]

Unrelated but is that Lady Gaga on the soundtrack??

 

[LadyJunon]

Piergiorgio you are not at Prada all of these girls won't even make it to Paris ( max Saint Laurent and that's all)

A good chunk of them (Kendall Jinr included) made it to Courrèges and a couple might do Givenchy, but that's it. Also, can someone explain to me why Piergiorgio has ''body diversity'' in one show (Versace), but sample sized models in others (YSL and Courrèges).. Doesn't he choose the models?

 

[Lola701]

A good chunk of them (Kendall Jinr included) made it to Courrèges and a couple might do Givenchy, but that's it. Also, can someone explain to me why Piergiorgio has ''body diversity'' in one show (Versace), but sample sized models in others (YSL and Courrèges).. Doesn't he choose the models?

He is the casting director but CD still have something to say about castings…
I mean at least those who are into it.

 

[LadyJunon]

He is the casting director but CD still have something to say about castings…
I mean at least those who are into it.

That makes sense. I'm suprised that casting directors havent't gotten those designers cancelled, but I guess that would mean burning bridges. Lots of them.

 

[reese06]

Guess I’m the black sheep on this one but I I really like it.

At times it looses the sense of luxe and seems more Versus than Versace but I definitely see Donatella’s hand in this.

I love the tweed looks and I sense she is referencing her fall 2004 collection.

This is the early 2000s, rock and roll Donatella that I love.

 

[Lola701]

That makes sense. I'm suprised that casting directors havent't gotten those designers cancelled, but I guess that would mean burning bridges. Lots of them.

If designers don’t specially requires body diversity, casting directors won’t include it in their selection. It’s like when they have guest stars.

 

[caioherrero]

Donatella was with Britney this week, maybe she is going to be in the next campaign

 

[reese06]

Donatella was with Britney this week, maybe she is going to be in the next campaign

I highly doubt Britney is doing a campaign.

Britney has always been a friend of the house, but Britney said when she first got engaged that Donatella was designing her wedding dress.

 

[squilliam]

I feel like Donatella is trying to pander so hard to the Gen Z Instagram/Tik Tok crowd but it just comes off as an out of touch older person trying to be hip with the kids. She's also trying very hard to rework Gianni's ideas which imo rarely works for her. Her best collections were when she followed her own style and designed for a strong sexy woman.

 

[bszp]

The problem of today fashion is just mediocrity, there is lack of a visionary stature to create a paradigm and actually shake things, define things,
There is no McQueen, Elbaz , Margiela , even the ageless legends like Lagerfeld are not here to carry the industry and give it a direction.
There is no one that come over and define the aesthetics of these days and carry the torch and shake things in a good way, until some genius comes and takes over the fashion world, it is going to be like this, aimless and visionless in all houses.

 

[Vitamine W]

The problem of today fashion is just mediocrity, there is lack of a visionary stature to create a paradigm and actually shake things, define things,
There is no McQueen, Elbaz , Margiela , even the ageless legends like Lagerfeld are not here to carry the industry and give it a direction.
There is no one that come over and define the aesthetics of these days and carry the torch and shake things in a good way, until some genius comes and takes over the fashion world, it is going to be like this, aimless and visionless in all houses.

The problem is that everybody is a visionary and/or a designer or at least a stylist with the amount of channels, platforms, content and styles in today's social media landscape. Celebrities, ultra influencers and opinion leaders have taken over setting global fashion trends, switching designers like accessories.

 

[bszp]

The problem is that everybody is a visionary and/or a designer or at least a stylist with the amount of channels, platforms, content and styles in today's social media landscape. Celebrities, ultra influencers and opinion leaders have taken over setting global fashion trends, switching designers like accessories.

Therefore there are not visionary, They lack vision and depth.
there is no real visionary to carry the torch.