Versace F/W 2024.25 Milan

This collection is a major downgrade from the Pre Fall. Some seriously poor fabric manipulations - particularly the finale gowns. What woman wants more fabric right on her problem areas. These gowns barely work on models.

Versace has to have the best gowns. what else does Versace do well?
 
This was not designed by Donatella. It's not fun or much sensual. Not to mention all over the place with sections that don't speak with each other.
 
I must say, I DO like the convoluted runway set. It's the only thing that has any semblance of Versace these days.
 
I really really liked the Menswear part... was very surprised to see that and happy for Donatella
 
And my question is who was responsible for the make up? That liner is horrible. Not flattering at all
 
Awful collection or collections, since very few looks actually make sense together. Since MK’s involvement in this brand, it went from being a Disney-fied version of Gianni’s glory days to total duty free fashion, it’s pointless, it doesn’t look well made and it seems to be getting more soulless with each passing season. The discounted mall-brand Lagerfeld knockoffs are not only ugly but totally random in the context of the brand.
 

Looks ravishing on her. I take it back this is a gorgeous dress... I think Versace's red carpet investment will pay out in spades. The customer going to the V boutique will find wearable clothes with gianni versace's codes. They're going to sell a lot of RTW...this fall collection alone has 3 great coats. Versace also has decent bag options and great shoes too...
 
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Looks ravishing on her. I take it back this is a gorgeous dress... I think Versace's red carpet investment will pay out in spades. The customer going to the V boutique will find wearable clothes with gianni versace's codes. They're going to sell a lot of RTW...this fall collection alone has 3 great coats. Versace also has decent bag options and great shoes too...
I mean, Versace’s business for the past 20 years has only be dependent on RTW. Still today, accessories only represents 20% of their sales.
So Donatella’s job goes beyond just good merchandising. She has to deliver great impactful collections. Versace is always a knockout on the redcarpet and it’s good for their prestige.
I mean they have a Chanel Ambassador who had spent most of her promo tour wearing their brand. But I don’t think it was translated in sales.
 
I like Versace as a brand, but I have a few glaring issues with it's current incarnation.

Their collections just feel extremely dated in terms of offerings and presentation. It feels like watching a bad 80s couture show, except that the decadent glamour has been replaced by sh*tty Phillip Plein menswear.
I mean, Versace’s business for the past 20 years has only be dependent on RTW. Still today, accessories only represents 20% of their sales.
So Donatella’s job goes beyond just good merchandising. She has to deliver great impactful collections. Versace is always a knockout on the redcarpet and it’s good for their prestige.
I mean they have a Chanel Ambassador who had spent most of her promo tour wearing their brand. But I don’t think it was translated in sales.
That percentage is quite unusual for a brand making 1.8b a year. Usually, from the 200-500M point, bags and accessories start to play a huge role in growing sales numbers.

Looking back, they never managed to develop an iconic/cult status bag, which is weird considering that they've been in business for nearly 5 decades.
 
I like Versace as a brand, but I have a few glaring issues with it's current incarnation.

Their collections just feel extremely dated in terms of offerings and presentation. It feels like watching a bad 80s couture show, except that the decadent glamour has been replaced by sh*tty Phillip Plein menswear.

That percentage is quite unusual for a brand making 1.8b a year. Usually, from the 200-500M point, bags and accessories start to play a huge role in growing sales numbers.

Looking back, they never managed to develop an iconic/cult status bag, which is weird considering that they've been in business for nearly 5 decades.
Versace still has a structure of 90’s/early 00’s fashion houses with unnecessary licenses deals that don’t make sense in the current climate and that doesn’t help the brand on a long term (Versace Jeans Couture for example). I don’t know why they are still producing watches among other things.

But Versace is a a fashion house that has always had a very particular image. And it’s very difficult to sell handbags, that are status symbols, when the brand is neither IT or super aspirational.

And I’m also on the belief that fashion brands bags shouldn’t rely on logos (Peter Hawkings should remember that). If you look at the history of fashion brands that have became important in terms of bags, none of them relied on logos.

And I think the gap was already so big between RTW and accessories that it’s very difficult to catch-up now. Balmain is facing the same issue I think. And Versace RTW is very well price!

I think that the brand needs to go into a full restructuring before Donatella leaves. Get rid of the unecessary licenses, rethink the distribution…In a way doing what Dolce & Gabbana did. Dolce is another brand that is very big in RTW too…
I wouldn’t be surprised to learn that Valentino is the same even if I suspect that their accessories business is bigger than what it represents for Versace.
 
Donatella looks great these days but maybe she needs a bump to wake her up from these sleepy collections.
 
Love the opening, how the first look appears in front of photo panel for visitors and then goes straight into runway. It gave life, vitality. Love the white staircase backdrop and seeing the sexy silhouette of the first look in front of it. It reminds me of play with lightning colour and silhouettes, of runway design in Gianni's fashion shows, of the staircase of his haute couture days at Hotel Ritz. The Versace DNA feels there. The look with black clothes and white collar, and black long hair ('Gothic Lolita'), she hit straight into trend with that and made the history of the present day fashion. The huge part of the collection feels relevant, how the youth dresses these days in clubs. Of course, not there are hits but misses in the collection as well. Not that bad cast, nice to see some fresh youth along with already long-time-appearing familiar faces. Of course, the execution, the stiling, the camerawork, the runway layout could have been better. There is pretty of room for improvement. Only the first track was good, the rest of the music felt populistic and did not contribute to the show.
 

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