Viktor & Rolf Haute Couture F/W 2024.25 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[GoldenPetals]

Dreadful.

 

[GoldenPetals]

After all these decades, their idea of fashion is still adolescent at best. They want to be cOncEpTuAl so bad.

 

[Mr-Dale]

When I was scrolling through my IG feed this afternoon, the algorithm fed me an edit of their Fall 2005 show. Seeing this now, gosh, I really miss what they were doing circa 2000-2010…and especially around 2003-2006. Their collections always had a really strong story and concept and they knew how to find ways to execute those concepts through beautifully crafted, awe-inspiring designs and shows that succesfully balanced desirability with the avant-garde (tbf, sometimes the avant-garde won, but it was still stunning storytelling).

Now, all they seem to do is look for ways to build weird shapes with their designs. Whether it’s these cubes and orbs here, dresses worn next to the body, or piles of raffia tied to a corset, it all just feels like stuff made of shapes and materials. Where’s the dream? Where is the fashion? Where’s the dressmaker’s touch in fabrics, textures or colors? I can’t even qualify it as art….I feel nothing when I look at any of this. Such a shame.

 

[Empress of Dress]

If you take it down to the basic silhouette there are some pretty thing here, The polk dot blouse I thought was cute, #8 if softened the contrast fabrics and overall design is not for me but I don't hate ! I like that their point of view is different, it's a break for the scenes like Moschino is for rtw fashion week(s)

 

[TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]

Not quite but close.... I remember this Christian Siriano collection so well because Alex Fury roasted it so hard calling it "the ugliest effing skirt he has ever seen"



Christian Siriano Fall 2020

 

[bennyboy]

remind me bit of Oskar Schlemmer's design

 

[Nader]

I enjoyed this far more than I expected, especially the coat in the first look

 

[TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]

Editorial wise it's going to do amazing

 

[Alquimista]

They all look like bomboms

 

[TerraVera]

hilarious. you want strong shoulders? we'll give you a BOX!

these are the type of HC clothes that would've been excellent for a vogue italia sad clown spread or some class critique parody on a distorted understanding of our stratified milieu in the 2010s. klein at his best back then would've created magic with these looks deep sigh

it's levity, it's funny and it made me laugh. i'm glad somebody in the syndicate has a healthy sense of humor no matter how juvenile it is.

 

[jeremydante]

I really do wonder how successful they are in Couture sales. And also, how their clients store the pieces. Agreeing with @GoldenPetals who mentioned their designs being adolescent - there has truly been limited to no evolution from them.

I feel like they are earning based on fragrance, not to box them in- the clothes are doing that for them.

 

[jeanclaude]

The trick has gone old...

 

[neogrotesque]

This kind of abstract concept only works for V&R when they stick to one fabric for the whole collection.

The strongest looks are the ones with the Kleenex box shoulders, I actually love them lmao

 

[tourbillions]

im not sure what they are trying to do and why random shapes got stuck in their women. other than the giftwrapped cardboard shapes gimmick the clothes over them cant be more basic. its like when you bought a H&M dress and somehow wanted to test the stretch fabric with randome objects your found at home.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

I don’t understand why they keep going with this trajectory for their couture collections. It becomes insufferable because it’s so corny and art school level of design. I know it isn’t a couture collection, but why not revisit something like their Spring 2003 collection with all the models dancing. I’m sure casting would be difficult because models these days are as stiff as a board but the right ones are out there!

They always try to pit themselves as the “funny smart ones” a lot of the time in a way that reminds me of a lecturer trying to be “cool” or “punk”. When you have to force it, it isn’t that.