Viktor & Rolf Haute Couture S/S 2024 Paris
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helmutnotdead
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f a b u l o u s
IloveDiorHomme
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Looks like a MA collection from CSM when Louise Wilson was still there.
Which means directional, playful, minimal-maximal. Quite good !
Which means directional, playful, minimal-maximal. Quite good !
LadyJunon
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When being compared to a graduate collection is a complement.
Lola701
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It’s always the ones you expect absolutely nothing from who comes up with the good stuff!
This is one of the times where their stunt actually works so well because attached to a narrative, a design and technical challenge!
That idea of a classical beautifully made Couture archetype (Le manteau, le tailleur, le tailleur pantalon, la robe de cocktail et la robe du soir) that is getting destroyed to look even more beautiful while destroyed is fabulous.
Of course, that idea is nothing new. Jeremy Scott even did it recently at Moschino if I remember well. Here, I also see a glimpse of the work-in-progress Couture collection from Galliano at Dior from 2005 but in a reverse way a little bit.
There’s something very Westwood in the Arte-Povera kind of intention.
If I have one critic, it would be about the last part. I think the gown is quite uninspired and they can never compete with their own spring 2010 collection.
This is one of the times where their stunt actually works so well because attached to a narrative, a design and technical challenge!
That idea of a classical beautifully made Couture archetype (Le manteau, le tailleur, le tailleur pantalon, la robe de cocktail et la robe du soir) that is getting destroyed to look even more beautiful while destroyed is fabulous.
Of course, that idea is nothing new. Jeremy Scott even did it recently at Moschino if I remember well. Here, I also see a glimpse of the work-in-progress Couture collection from Galliano at Dior from 2005 but in a reverse way a little bit.
There’s something very Westwood in the Arte-Povera kind of intention.
If I have one critic, it would be about the last part. I think the gown is quite uninspired and they can never compete with their own spring 2010 collection.
nonfatgoddess
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Had a hard time appreciating their collections the past couture seasons until this! It’s just all so beautiful and well executed!
tourbillions
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they make couture so fun and relatable. always some gimmicks but done and crafted to whats expected of a couture look. I love that no matter how much volume they add to their looks, its always all about technique than embellishments.
GoldenPetals
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The non-thematic pieces are stunning.
The ones with the faux 'burns' are silly and unappealing.
The ones with the faux 'burns' are silly and unappealing.
CommanderTMugler
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Every once in a while they’ll throw out a collection that’s mindblowing, this one is a bit to similar to others but can still appreciate the work. Even though some of these pieces are “torn”, the final outcome when doing a custom piece is surely marvelous. I’d love to see the end results on some of their clients not just the runway samples.
Alquimista
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Ugly as sh*t.
Don't know what you people are seeing cause I only see widows who got in a fight with a pitbull.
Don't know what you people are seeing cause I only see widows who got in a fight with a pitbull.
jeanclaude
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This is totally inspired by Elsa Schiaparelli famous "torn" dress. And, of course and obviously, it looks more Schiaparelli than that robotic mess Daniel Roseberry delivered.
They would be a perfect fit at Schiaparelli, they understand surrealism.
They would be a perfect fit at Schiaparelli, they understand surrealism.
Cocteau Stone
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A positive surprise, though I'm on the fence with this.
Better than what they've been doing for the last few seasons, and there is a strong narrative that has a great focus, which frankly has been missing from a lot the couture collections. I just find find the silhouettes themselves - even in their state of intentional dilapidation - to be very twee. Alexis Mabille-esque and yeah, those final tulle concoctions are nothing compared to THAT spring 2010 collection, and that was ready to wear.
The state of "decay" is just too calculated and orchestrated, kind of denies the idea of it really being done by hand even though it is. Maybe that's the point though and maybe I'm reading too much into it but the silhouettes themselves are just so... blah.
Better than what they've been doing for the last few seasons, and there is a strong narrative that has a great focus, which frankly has been missing from a lot the couture collections. I just find find the silhouettes themselves - even in their state of intentional dilapidation - to be very twee. Alexis Mabille-esque and yeah, those final tulle concoctions are nothing compared to THAT spring 2010 collection, and that was ready to wear.
The state of "decay" is just too calculated and orchestrated, kind of denies the idea of it really being done by hand even though it is. Maybe that's the point though and maybe I'm reading too much into it but the silhouettes themselves are just so... blah.
gallianostan
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margiela ss24 was on the moodboard i see.
