Vionnet F/W 07.08 Paris

[deeth]

style.com

 

[MulletProof]

oh my.. I thought the thread would never arrive!.

 

[deeth]

style.com

 

[deeth]

style.com

 

[deeth]

style.com

 

[masquerade]

i thought there was gonna be a big runway show, but i guess not. i dont know why i thought that, just assumed i guess

its very pretty, but slightly boring. there are some spectacular pieces mixed in with some so-so ones. i think the dresses we saw before in articles talking about this collection were a lot better than the ones shown here

edit: the gowns are gorgeous

 

[Zazie]

I like the simple sophistication, though not all of it worked (eg. the grey velvet coat, those bulky collars, that short silver pouf dress, the last frumpy silver gown ). The others, though, are excellent, and much closer to the haut Parisian aesthetics than Theyskens' debut for Nina Ricci! I love the patent leather capes too. Nice debut here, and a stronger collection than her own label.

 

[city girl]

quite good

 

[deeth]

PARIS, March 4, 2007 – As a small but intense addendum to the season, what's going on at Vionnet deserves recognition. The name has been revived in a very rarefied, technically accomplished way by Sophia Kokosalaki, who was hired by the French owners of the dormant brand last season, in arrangement with Barneys New York, who are, for the moment, the sole stockists. "It has to be French, formal, and pure," Kokosalaki said. "I avoid festoonery and anything to do with cool Britannia, which I can do in my own line." Following in the footsteps of Madeleine Vionnet, who laid down the fundamentals of twentieth-century dressmaking, is a daunting task, but Kokosalaki has taken it on in a way that shines a subtle sidelight on fashion's pent-up desire for simple-seeming but ultrarefined minimalism.

Sophia herself likes trenchcoats and dresses, and that's what she showed in her low-key, appointment-only presentation. It gave a close-up of some exceptional things. There was a pliant brown shearling coat with a small waist and a soft, undulating bounce in the skirt, one of the best of its kind seen all season. The draped, twisted, and knotted evening dresses, especially the one in silver silk lamé, gave a quietly impactful alternative for women who prefer to pass under the radar of red carpet branding. Integral here is the manipulation of superluxe fabrics to trick the eye: patinated silk that looks like leather, textured cloque that could be astrakhan, and minute dustings of pearl Lesage embroidery (taken from an original Vionnet sample) that, as Kokosalaki puts it, "make it look as if you've been snowed on."

The fact that the designer has taken lessons from the authority on Vionnet's complex cutting techniques, is part of the magic, though she's intelligent enough to see that it isn't about being slavishly referential. In this collection, Kokosalaki worked on Vionnet's "barrel" shape rather than bias cutting. It produced, for example, a square-cut coat with a collar that can fold into place, or be left loose to create a standout shoulder line, according to whim or weather. The price tags are some of the highest in ready-to-wear, but so far the cost is proving no deterrent. Within three weeks, the spring delivery of Vionnet's little-publicized first collection had sold out, an indication that Kokosalaki's woman-flattering approach is very much on the right track.

– Sarah Mower

style.com

 

[yoyogixxx]

umm... is that what they really expect from Sophia , she could do more than that , go on ! 'd love to see more

 

[MulletProof]

that short silver pouf dress, the last frumpy silver gown .

.. ugh.. I cant ignore them, as much as I love the classic feel of it all and the trousers, velvet-y pieces and blouses.. that pair nearly kills all my interest on this..

 

[Meg]

okay the last silver gown is not the greatest but i think this is simply superb and much much better than those original dresses we saw which were much more kokosalaki than vionnet. This to me is the essence of the house and beautifully done. I think sophia totally showed her ability and also i appreciate that she sees a strong distinction between this and her own line which so few multi tasking designers do.

do you pronounce vionnet with the t at the end ie vee-oh-net or no t ie vee-oh-nay ??

 

[StellaMare]

I really like this. Vionnet revived is a dream.

 

[Whitelinen]

This is not bad at all, but I would've wished it to be a little bit more "Vionnet"...

 

[melt977]

I actually love this!

 

[telepathicgoat]

didnt know what to expect from kokosalaki

not impressed at all, which is kind of dissapointing

 

[peacelover142002]

Some great pieces mixed in with some not-so-great ones. But it's a good start. I'm looking forward to seeing more from Vionnet.

 

[brian]

...

 

[Choisir]

I've seen those shapes dozens of times this season already....nothing stands out

 

[Lena]

some amazing pieces and few horrid ones..

its not a weak debut..

i could see some of the eveningwear on red carpet occasions, hollywood should love this