Vionnet F/W 07.08 Paris

[KhaoticKharma]

Vionnet is my new fave label.

 

[kitty87kat]

why revise a old label like Vionnet? I understand it makes more money. But i find old design houses sometimes stitfle a designer's creativity, they always want the designers to folllow in the houses' tradition (ex. the drapey grecian gowns). I say, we need more avant garde designers doing their own things!

 

[Scott]

personally,i like alot of the seperates. the coats are really strong to me,and the fuller,knee-length skirts....and the cape dresses are beautiful as well. and the grey velvet + black printed coats with the pouf collar,i don't see anything wrong with that? i actually love the shapes on those pieces and they are very classic but also quite quirky.

 

[zamb]

why revise a old label like Vionnet? I understand it makes more money. But i find old design houses sometimes stitfle a designer's creativity, they always want the designers to folllow in the houses' tradition (ex. the drapey grecian gowns). I say, we need more avant garde designers doing their own things!

well these designers in thier time have built up a legacy and a body of work, that can ( and in some ways are by other designers and houses) be continued to be explored and pushed forward.
a fashion house shouldnt simply die , simply because its founder no longer exist.
what has been done, is that the owners try to find designers (almost like surrogate children of the founders) whose style and abilities they think will be able to carry on the heritage and identity of the house.
the good thing about a pairing like this is that , since the house had been closed for a while, Sophia is not weighed down by the legacy of the founding designer (Givenchy, YSL etc) but is free (like Nicolas was when he started at Balenciaga) to use the signitures and identity of the house in whatever way she sees fit...................

 

[Scott]

kitty,it's just the game these days. i'm sure she she had alot of respect for Vionnet but honestly,she probably could do with the extra money. most designers as with Sophia,can't make it on their own terms as much they used to without money. that's why she's also sold a stake in her label to diesel. it's all about money.

myself,as with others on here,have been staunchly praise-worthy to designers who stick to their indepence,but it is so difficult now in such a conglomerate enviroment.

 

[Bidwell]

I believe she has created a positive start and will get better. Her own research into the technical properties of fabric mirror Vionnet herself.
I think it was the smartest thing to avoid it being another flash in the pan collection for the runway. That is not the essence of the house and I'm certain the work is meant to be looked at up close.

 

[Beautiful Stranger]

Totally agreeing with Lena on this:

"some amazing pieces and few horrid ones..

its not a weak debut..

i could see some of the eveningwear on red carpet occasions, hollywood should love this"

 

[esquire]

need to see more... but as it stands is v. boring and uninspired.. i would expect much much much much more....

 

[frieda]

I was pretty bored.

 

[LibertyRose]

Is it normal to have the pre-fall outdazzle the main autumn-winter collection? An extension of the pre-fall could've been a praise-worthy, full-fledged collection. Not only were the eveningwear mesmerizing, they were the focus of the presentation. Why did Sophia decide to do daywear instead? Pretty uneventful. There is a way to showcase expert draping technique without sacrificing good tailoring.

 

[kanita]

Lena said it.

 

[belletrist]

Boring... and I don't like using this word.
It's not Vionnet (we say Vio-nay but not really "nay" you see, it must be short. Vio-né), and it's not Kokosalaki. I was against the idea of revamping such a forgotten house... anyway there's a lot of old houses that would need french air... Courrèges, Torrente, Ted Lapidus, Thierry Mugler, Lolita Lempicka, etc etc I see their label on a LOT of cheap stuff, just like Pierre Cardin... They deserve a better future.

 

[Miss Dalloway]

Expected more,this is hardly a glorious debut.................

 

[Dkammern]

imo the fun will start next fall when they start doing runway shows!!

 

[wheneveriwakeup]

The separates are the ticket. As a whole, imo, it's rather flat. I was expecting something ambrosial, though I wouldn't say no to any of it.

 

[happyguy]

Extremely Disappointing.

 

[shopsmuch]

blech, this is so boring, and a lot of the pieces look really unflattering--especially the gray charmeuse skirt and dress, so frumpy. the first blue skirt in post #3 is nice, though.

i honestly don't see that strong of the vionnet influence. generally, trying to revive old houses of the masters really just annoys me. so maybe my affection is unwinnable...

 

[Kamelot]

style.com

wow, beautifully eclectic

 

[JJohnson]

kitty,it's just the game these days. i'm sure she she had alot of respect for Vionnet but honestly,she probably could do with the extra money. most designers as with Sophia,can't make it on their own terms as much they used to without money. that's why she's also sold a stake in her label to diesel. it's all about money.

myself,as with others on here,have been staunchly praise-worthy to designers who stick to their indepence,but it is so difficult now in such a conglomerate enviroment.

very good point!

 

[JunyaSchick]

Sophia and team made good job... althought I also think it was a bit boring--- but for a comeback (that it´s carefull and not sure about future) is great! hope in october we can see a runway show