West life
She inspires devotion like few other designers. Now the V&A is to stage a major retrospective of her 30-year career. Mo White talks to three women who are wedded to Vivienne Westwood
Monday March 22, 2004
The Guardian
Vivienne Westwood's devotees believe she has not just touched their lives, but changed them. Collectors and dealers know the financial value of her clothes, but her true fans are in it for love. With iconic garments aplenty Westwood is as all-inclusive as a designer comes: the slogan T-shirts, the platforms, the corsets, the Smedley twin sets, the Harris Tweed; there is something for all occasions. The Victoria & Albert Museum will stage a major retrospective in April of a career that has spanned 30 years and run the gamut of fashion emotions.
Tiger Savage, 34, head of art and deputy creative director at M&C Saatchi
Tiger Savage doesn't just dabble. Her Westwood collection is so extensive that she is forced to keep a lock-up. It all started when she moved to London aged 17 in the mid-80s and bought a skirt and top from the pirates collection: "I suppose it was because her pieces were quite unique and anti-fashion and I wanted to be bold and extrovert. It's quite addictive: you'd want to get the one-offs or the pieces that would sell out quickly. I started buying the jewellery, then shoes. I have about 30 pairs of rocking horse shoes and a box marked prostitute shoes."
Today she is as loyal as ever. In the same breath as admitting that she never wears less than a 4in heel, she says: "Westwood's clothes have changed me over the years - they're witty and unique. She's quite a big mentor: she's been doing the same thing for 30 years and is obviously a proud and focussed person."
For Savage, the designs are as timeless as they are evocative and things happen to girls who wear Westwood: "Every Valentine's day I bring out my heart jacket but I've also got show pieces like her velvet mini-crini, a corset, an ermine shawl and a crown, which I remember wearing in Japan. The other day, a man came up to me and said I remember what you were wearing 10 years ago."
Still devoted, she believes: "I'm different when I wear her clothes. I have a certain poise and confidence - it makes you walk differently." She continues: "I work in a creative industry, and I've become a persona that's bigger than me - I'm the one with the funny name who wears funny clothes."
When she married it was, of course, in a fantasy Westwood couture gown. "A Mae West off-the-shoulder number of the palest blue and I wore it with an Elizabethan-collared jacket, Snow White meets Elvis. Even though I'm no longer with my husband I got as close as I could to being a princess: I can't wait to have a daughter and pass it on to her."
Akie Minami, 24, fashion design student at Middlesex University
When Akie Minami was 18 she would dress for school in head-to-toe Westwood. "When I first saw the golden orb symbol on a friend's socks I was about 16 and really wanted to know what it was," she remembers. She then made weekly trips to her local Westwood concession at an Osaka department store and on her first visit to London, went straight to the Davies Street boutique. Relying on hoarded pocket money and gifts, she initiated herself with accessories and savoured the torment of placing an order for her black rocking horse ballerina pumps and waiting for them to be shipped.
"They cost about £500. I waited for about two months for them to be delivered, phoning the shop once a week and worrying that they'd get lost at the airport," she says.
"I love the way the shoes make you look tall and when you walk it makes you feel like you're kicking the floor." Since those first accessories, her collection has grown to include about 50 pieces. "Vivienne is a goddess, I still love her and when I wear her clothes - even just a cardigan - I feel feminine, sexy and punky," she says. Since coming to London to study fashion, circumstances have forced her to curb her habit: "I used to wear Westwood everyday, but my tutors believed that I needed to develop my own fashion style, so now I only wear one piece a day."
Some of her friends at school wore Westwood to look different, but for Minami it's become more than just a rite of passage: "I feel so confident and powerful just knowing that I love it so much. Vivienne used to be so crazy in her punk days. I could have chosen any career or country to study in but the only reason I decided to come here was because of Vivienne: I wanted to know how she felt."
Lorraine Goddard, 29, photographer
"I first became aware of Vivienne Westwood in March 1993 when Naomi fell off her platforms on the catwalk - it's every woman's fear," says Lorraine Goddard. After living in Chicago and Sicily, at the age of 21 she returned to London fluent in Italian and needed a job - it had to be in fashion. "It wasn't until I worked for Vivienne - I was receptionist for a month, studio manager for a couple of months and then moved into the press office - that I got into her clothes: it's a very specific taste," she says. "It was the best time of my life, it was a mad environment and the glamour was unbelievable."
"It was OK to wear these outfits to work; a twin set, pencil skirt, court shoes with 4in heels, big hair and lots of red lipstick," she remembers. "It was a completely different life for me: her clothes give you the courage to wear and do things that you wouldn't ordinarily do and feel very elegant and sexy - you get a lot of attention."
A month or so later, backstage at the Paris show, she met one of Westwood's most legendary fans, Adam Ant. "He was a complete and utter gent and we went on lots of dates on Jermyn Street or to Fortnums," she remembers. By June, Lorraine had left her job with a silk-crepe gold jersey Westwood couture dress as a wedding gown and the pair eloped. "We flew to Atlanta to get married in Vegas, but fell in love with a house in Tennessee, got married there and discovered I was pregnant with Lily [now five]."
When she was pregnant she did the previously unimaginable and stopped wearing her favourite 4in black platform boots. "I wore Adam's clothes," she says, "but when I had Lily I started to wear just knit and jersey pieces with my favourite sheepskin coat." Rails of Adam Ant's clothes from across the decades now belong to Lorraine and their daughter. "It's one of the biggest collections in the world, he kept all of the originals - two rails of clothes, more shoes than me - including sling backs, rocking horse shoes and pirate boots - and a suitcase of T-shirts. It would be a waste to wear them, they're works of art."