Vogue Runway's Most Important Collections of the 2010s

[Ruito]

The Most Important Collections of the 2010s

 

[Ruito]

A lot of 'important' ones missing but that's ok!

 

[aracic]

Yeah... no.

 

[kasper!]

Nicole Phelps...skipped.

 

[billiejbob]

Gees...she really missed the mark

 

[GivenchyHomme]

Dead @ this flop list.

 

[Lola701]

Really Nicole? McQueen FW19?

No Raf? No Hedi? No Miuccua? No Donatella? No Riccardo?
She lived under a rock for an entire decade it seems.
They should have asked Hamish. Nobody cares about Nicole’s list.

 

[Deleted member 141309]

I literally agree only with 3 collection mentioned here - Hedi's, Phoebe's and Alessandro's debuts. Because these people totally shifted the industry by their visions (to spare your time - don't even try to argue on Hedi or Alessandro just because you don't like them, I am looking at the scale of success here).
But those Valentino, Chanel and Vuitton?
And what is that with Gvasalia double time?
Thanks God she didn't come up with the "great" idea of including Abloh there. So obvious she is trying to cater to the masses and sponsors, not fashion.

 

[Ed..]

As soon as I saw the phallus look Adut wore, I closed my internet tab.

 

[Lola701]

I literally agree only with 3 collection mentioned here - Hedi's, Phoebe's and Alessandro's debuts. Because these people totally shifted the industry by their visions (to spare your time - don't even try to argue on Hedi or Alessandro just because you don't like them, I am looking at the scale of success here).
But those Valentino, Chanel and Vuitton?
And what is that with Gvasalia double time?
Thanks God she didn't come up with the "great" idea of including Abloh there. So obvious she is trying to cater to the masses and sponsors, not fashion.

I would argue about the collections she choose tbh. I think Hedi’s first collection was more important than the Punk one. Yes the punk was controversial but the first one had a real impact. And Phoebe’s second collection really revived the minimalism... Her first collection was fine but the world was still in the Balmainmania.

I can get Valentino because it is a moment in Couture but she needed to add Raf for Dior’s debut too.

Vuitton has nothing to do here. Maybe Nicolas’s first collection but that’s it.

I think this entire decade was dominated by the big brands, the big names as it was the era of consumerism and excess.
Weirdly, the era started on a very Helmut Lang clean note and ended with the Arte-Povera Margiela-esque aesthetic. Two designers who during their times represented the opposite of consumerism and excess.



Maybe we should do our most important collections list.

 

[Pricciao]

I thought we did with Best Fashion Shows of the 2010s?
Don't even bother to say anything about no Prada, no Dior.
Menswear or gender fluid clothes is predominantly the shape of the era, where are those?
I get it. It's Nicole. She doesn't cover menswear. So how is she the one to write this?
They better come up with something next year to have a proper look at the 2010s and make up for this irrelevant article.

 

[Lola701]

I thought we did with Best Fashion Shows of the 2010s?

But are the best necessarly the most important? The McQueen collection she choose is a good example. The collection was beautiful and she is in her right to like it but in 10 years, nobody will remember that show. It’s not a pivotal moment for fashion. It doesn’t say anything about the industry or our era.
I think that Chanel’s FW19 was more important in it symbolic.

 

[StoneSkipper]

I don't like to be all apocalyptic and grievous over the state of fashion, but this list just serves to remind me that fashion journalism seems to be dead and buried. It's disgraceful.

 

[dior_couture1245]

I don't like to be all apocalyptic and grievous over the state of fashion, but this list just serves to remind me that fashion journalism seems to be dead and buried. It's disgraceful.

As is fashion itself.

Having that Sarah Burton McQueen collection on the list is so cringe.

 

[helmutnotdead]

i laughed hard.

Let's do our list. As Lola said, it's not about the best collections - like the list I've made on the best collections from the 2010's in another thread- it's about the ones who defined fashion this decade.

 

[dior_couture1245]

If it’s meant to be collections that defined and shaped the decade, there are some shows on the list that make sense - the Céline show, Marc’s Vuitton show (for the significance of it being the definitive end of an era and being an overall fabulous collection), the Vetements and Alessandro x Gucci shows....even the Hedi Saint Laurent show makes sense on the list, even though in some weird way, in retrospect, I find that the “influence” of his Saint Laurent is mostly industry manufactured. Now that he’s no longer there, the whole thing seems sort of a non-event...I don’t know if I’m making any sense, but the impact on the way other designers work seems minimal, unlike Phoebe’s influence...which almost overnight dozens and dozens of lesser designers and big brands alike followed her lead shamelessly. If anything, Hedi’s influence might only be in a business sense?

Anyway, I digress.

But this list not to include shows like Prada Spring/Summer 2011 - which was such a phenomenon that it’s impact is still felt everywhere - novelty sunglasses, kitschy embellishments and cartoon prints? What collection still today isn’t riffing on that same formula?

I would also add Givenchy Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2010. Riccardo’s heavily embellished sheer gowns redefined Haute Couture AND Red Carpet dressing from that moment on. Up until that point, Couture was a lot more about shape, volume, construction and cut - from this moment on, Couture became almost exclusively about embroidery and embellishment. In a way, it also kicked off this decade’s obsession with a sort of manufactured and “false” nudity.

I might also include Loewe Fall/Winter 2017. It feels like a perfect summation of the later half of the decade...a sort of concept-less, structure-less, narrative-less collection, composed of completely individual, almost unrelated looks. A focus on craftsmanship and artisanal treatments. It remains my favorite collection from JW at Loewe.

For now, these are the ones that stand out for me as I’m recalling the last decade. There are others I’m sure I’m missing.

 

[Steddycam91]

I feel like Nicole's list is actually pretty decent, but it's crazy to me that she omitted Givenchy Fall/Winter 2011. We can all thank that collection for the nonstop collision (or collusion?) of street style and high fashion, and for giving permission to many luxury brands to rest on their laurels by just churning out bomber jackets and printed sweatshirts.

 

[Lola701]

If it’s meant to be collections that defined and shaped the decade, there are some shows on the list that make sense - the Céline show, Marc’s Vuitton show (for the significance of it being the definitive end of an era and being an overall fabulous collection), the Vetements and Alessandro x Gucci shows....even the Hedi Saint Laurent show makes sense on the list, even though in some weird way, in retrospect, I find that the “influence” of his Saint Laurent is mostly industry manufactured. Now that he’s no longer there, the whole thing seems sort of a non-event...I don’t know if I’m making any sense, but the impact on the way other designers work seems minimal, unlike Phoebe’s influence...which almost overnight dozens and dozens of lesser designers and big brands alike followed her lead shamelessly. If anything, Hedi’s influence might only be in a business sense?

Anyway, I digress.

But this list not to include shows like Prada Spring/Summer 2011 - which was such a phenomenon that it’s impact is still felt everywhere - novelty sunglasses, kitschy embellishments and cartoon prints? What collection still today isn’t riffing on that same formula?

I would also add Givenchy Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2010. Riccardo’s heavily embellished sheer gowns redefined Haute Couture AND Red Carpet dressing from that moment on. Up until that point, Couture was a lot more about shape, volume, construction and cut - from this moment on, Couture became almost exclusively about embroidery and embellishment. In a way, it also kicked off this decade’s obsession with a sort of manufactured and “false” nudity.

I might also include Loewe Fall/Winter 2017. It feels like a perfect summation of the later half of the decade...a sort of concept-less, structure-less, narrative-less collection, composed of completely individual, almost unrelated looks. A focus on craftsmanship and artisanal treatments. It remains my favorite collection from JW at Loewe.

For now, these are the ones that stand out for me as I’m recalling the last decade. There are others I’m sure I’m missing.

While I agree with what you said for the most part, I still don’t understand how Marc’s last collection was a defining moment. It was a fabulous farewell but looking back, it didn’t had the impact of Tom leaving Gucci or Hedi leaving Dior Homme.

I think a lot of people are missing from that list and most of all, I don’t think she picked the right collections.

And totally on board with what you said about Riccardo’s Couture. It’s true, those 10 Couture dresses changed Couture and RC style much like he changed the idea of luxury by doing those t-shirts and making streetwear relevant from a fashion point of view.

I think that Hedi’s work with Saint Laurent changed the system as it was mostly product oriented. It shifted the value of fashion from being about creativity and cashing from that creativity to be about the product itself.
In a way, Hedi didn’t revolutionized the system because that’s exactly how Frida Giannini builded her success at Gucci (bad reviews included).


I wonder what this new era will be about.

 

[SophiaVB]

the last decade has kinda been a blur... not to sound dramatic. the most defining features have been that the trends we'll retroactively remember have originated via instagram/streetwear/90s nostalgia and designers have more often than not regurgitated these ideas back to consumers.

i will say that phoebe and a nod toward modesty (if not modest dressing overall) seem very defining to the 2010s.

 

[Fiercification]

I can actually get down with a lot of that list in a way, although the McQueen and Valentino HC choices are questionable...

It's interesting how Vogue is still so in love with that first Celine collection by Phoebe. It's great, but for me it doesn't define her era. However I will say that I can clearly remember US Vogue being the ones to really push the S/S 2010 collection in the magazine before others were really getting on board with it.

Riccardo's streetwear saga, likely starting with Givenchy F/W 2010, you're right Steddycam91 definitely defined this era. That was then hijacked by Demna, who I have to say has really blown Balenciaga up to the masses. I mean I work with kids who can reference Balenciaga now (probably because of the sneakers) and this was never the case with Nicolas' era when it was so much of an insider thing.

Speaking of the other collections that really influenced fashion this decade for me were Balenciaga F/W 2012, with all the nostalgic sci-fi prints and Bailey's 2010/11 Burberry collections, particularly S/S 2011. Some people still haven't stopped wearing knock offs of that ugly leather coat with the quilted panels .