Vogue Runway's Most Important Collections of the 2010s

[Ivanovaju]

Is industry mad at Raf so neither he nor his model choises are listed in any the-best-of-the-decade Vogue's lists? You can love him, you can hate him, but the impact of his first couture collection for Dior deserves to be in the top fashion happenings of the decade for sure. Raf's coming to Dior started the trend of changing brands' creative directors like a gloves, it doesn't sound good but it's a fact that lives for years now.

Valentino and McQueen look random as hell. Like you don't put the last Alexander's collection but add pretty random Sara's. How can you ever estimate collection's impact if it's not selling yet?

Valentino couture looks pretty random also because it looks like in the last moment they remembered that there also is couture collections that need to be menthioned. I wouldn't be so questioned if it was the first Pierpaolo's solo collection for brand, but this is noticeable for diversity cast only.

Nothing from Miuccia in this list also looks weird. Nothing from Miuccia but two collections from Demna Gvasalia.

 

[dodencebt]

If it’s meant to be collections that defined and shaped the decade, there are some shows on the list that make sense - the Céline show, Marc’s Vuitton show (for the significance of it being the definitive end of an era and being an overall fabulous collection), the Vetements and Alessandro x Gucci shows....even the Hedi Saint Laurent show makes sense on the list, even though in some weird way, in retrospect, I find that the “influence” of his Saint Laurent is mostly industry manufactured. Now that he’s no longer there, the whole thing seems sort of a non-event...I don’t know if I’m making any sense, but the impact on the way other designers work seems minimal, unlike Phoebe’s influence...which almost overnight dozens and dozens of lesser designers and big brands alike followed her lead shamelessly. If anything, Hedi’s influence might only be in a business sense?

Anyway, I digress.

But this list not to include shows like Prada Spring/Summer 2011 - which was such a phenomenon that it’s impact is still felt everywhere - novelty sunglasses, kitschy embellishments and cartoon prints? What collection still today isn’t riffing on that same formula?

I would also add Givenchy Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2010. Riccardo’s heavily embellished sheer gowns redefined Haute Couture AND Red Carpet dressing from that moment on. Up until that point, Couture was a lot more about shape, volume, construction and cut - from this moment on, Couture became almost exclusively about embroidery and embellishment. In a way, it also kicked off this decade’s obsession with a sort of manufactured and “false” nudity.

I might also include Loewe Fall/Winter 2017. It feels like a perfect summation of the later half of the decade...a sort of concept-less, structure-less, narrative-less collection, composed of completely individual, almost unrelated looks. A focus on craftsmanship and artisanal treatments. It remains my favorite collection from JW at Loewe.

For now, these are the ones that stand out for me as I’m recalling the last decade. There are others I’m sure I’m missing.

Yes to your additions to the list! They are the first collections I thought of, in addition to Phoebe's, Alessandro's and Demna's debuts, when talking about "influencing this decade".

Nicole's list is disgraceful. She is either more clueless than we thought or this is basically a sponsored list.

 

[Lola701]

We all know that Anna doesn’t co-sign this list...
No Prada, no Burberry by Bailey, no Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquiere and No Chanel Haute Couture...

 

[Ruito]

Really Nicole? McQueen FW19?

No Raf? No Hedi? No Miuccua? No Donatella? No Riccardo?
She lived under a rock for an entire decade it seems.
They should have asked Hamish. Nobody cares about Nicole’s list.

Hedi is there with his second collection for the house of SAINT LAURENT! The grunge collection.

 

[Lola701]

Hedi is there with his second collection for the house of SAINT LAURENT! The grunge collection.

That collection was so bad that I removed it from my memory as soon as I saw it on the list lol!

 

[GivenchyHomme]

That collection was so bad that I removed it from my memory as soon as I saw it on the list lol!

Grunge, Punk, and Asian Inspired collections are the easiest thing to do when you have no new ideas to present.

 

[YohjiAddict]

One of Prada's blockbusters must have been included, just five years ago even a lesser Miuccia show would hit Milan like an earthquake: S/S 14 was a love it or hate it show that seemed to exist in its own universe at the time but it was weirdly prophetic. Miu Miu seemed to kickstart many trends, some of them were awful and some were genius, the rare show with a distinct voice that you could see apealling to a wide range of women.

I'm not ashamed in the slightest to say that I totally agree about Demna's debut at Balenciaga, I spent much of the weeks that followed just staring at those fabulous anoraks and that opening look. It wasn't perfect but it had everything that Vetements lacked yet the cool remained somehow. Nothing he's delivered since has been as strong.

Pheobe's first few shows weren't at all my thing with all that geometrical, precise tailoring. Tim Blanks hit it in the head when he stated that they are the type of clothes that would render you unable to sit, I liked how she went softer for Fall 2013, it was so much warmer and richer plus that powder pink coat kickstarted a whole pink coat mania amongst the fall issues.

I would've included Ann Demeulesmeester's last show with those beautiful organza veils but this is american Vogue after all.

I'm proud to say that I hated that Gucci show then and I hate it even more now, in retrospect it was a very inoffensive house of the prairie meets suburban hipster affair but its laziness, cheesiness and outright tweeness annoyed me to no end and it was just a sign of worst things to come.

That Hedi show gave me life because members in here were seething with unadultered rage for a week after the fact. Sorry but Yves was known for such antics during his early years (badass perfecto jackets in croc and fur for Dior, for one) and it was kind of fascinating to see how expensive and elaborate those thrift store dresses were. That season it was outrageously expensive to look cheap.

That Rick Owens show revived the interest in the brand somehow but the clothes themselves were very inconsequential, I like my Rick ethereal and otherwordly and those clothes looked like any half-***ed Adidas collab he could have devised in five minutes after lunch.

 

[Faith Akiyama]

Just FYI - seems like most of the choices were selected by others (Lynn Yeager, Luke Leitch...see the sign-off after each paragraph), not Nicole? Though of course, she may have had some influence over the whole list.

 

[Deleted member 143689]

Really Nicole? McQueen FW19?

No Raf? No Hedi? No Miuccua? No Donatella? No Riccardo?
She lived under a rock for an entire decade it seems.
They should have asked Hamish. Nobody cares about Nicole’s list.

People like Nicole are why fashion is dying. There is a real lack of depth and insight most things she says. I get it you got yourself a title at a “prestigious” publication but that doesn’t equal taste. Same thing with Matthew Schneier it’s the whole walks and talks like they know but in reality worst personal sense and understanding of fashion ever. I honestly blame a lot of these types for why NYFW is a mess. They elevate the worst things and people buy it.

 

[Steddycam91]

Is industry mad at Raf so neither he nor his model choises are listed in any the-best-of-the-decade Vogue's lists? You can love him, you can hate him, but the impact of his first couture collection for Dior deserves to be in the top fashion happenings of the decade for sure. Raf's coming to Dior started the trend of changing brands' creative directors like a gloves, it doesn't sound good but it's a fact that lives for years now.

I would argue that Raf's most important, impactful work this decade was done during his tenure at Jil Sander. His S/S 2011, S/S 2012, and F/W 2012 collections for the house felt more confident and genuinely resonant than any of his collections at Dior, IMO (some of which I did like, but their influence was more a reflection of LVMH advertising dollars).

I also think it's worth noting the totality of the influence of Phoebe's output at Céline: the initial streamlined, strict, minimal collections but then the post F/W 2012 work, when she flipped the script and developed a looser, more experimental feel. It's interesting that this happened after giving birth; it's almost like having a baby really freed her up and let her just go for it.