^^^ 2020 is precisely the reason why fashion photography/designers/models/creative & art direction is so subpar… I guess because of “diversity and inclusivity”— which apparently means a lack of skills/talent/high standards.
Another rant to read, but I cannot stay silent:
I am by no means against diversity and inclusivity, but in today's world, especially in fashion, it seems that the idea that you have to squeeze in a person of every colour, a person of every gender possible, some person who has anything to say about their struggles, some feminist opinion, and etc.. The problem is not the willing to push the progress, but it is the approach - every person in the field except very-very limited bunch of people (Hermes, for example) do it correctly:
Is it a good idea to bring African designers to the world? Yes.
Is it good to bring them just for the sake of the trend, popularity, Instaculture, without any narrative and proper brand/recognition progression, most of all, talent? No.
Do we love equality for all genders and sexual orientations? Yes.
Is it good to bring it up by smooshing some of it in our faces by, let's say, doing 3 Vogue Italia covers with couple kissing? No.
Was it good when Franca and Meisel did it by tasteful crossdressing with Karen Elson & co, at least once? Yes.
What people in fashion forget is that they are taste makers, creativity promoters, dream masters, luxury and art connoisseurs. There is a very fine line in communication of sensitive topics, taste, art, pretentiousness and all the other notions that fashion mixes up currently, and they fail to maintain the balance of that line. Personally, fashion seems to be in the hype, above the society (I can smell the arrogance from all the (f)artsy Farneti covers or Vogue Portugal covers telling us that
ART
IS
NOT
JUST
A
PRETTY
IMAGE).
However, I will bring this up once again, in the days of Franca and good, proper Love Magazine, we had beautiful nude cover with Beth Ditto by M&M, and we also had bazillion visual commentary on everything by Steven himself. And what is it now? Harley Weir shooting a dress that looks like female genitalia and everyone sees it feminist and provocative? Or letting a black photographer to shoot Beyonce fora cover just once, and, worst of all, not quietly supporting him by making him a constant in Vogue editorial/cover artist, but do it once and scream "We are heroes, we have a black person shooting our cover!", and then forget that POC artists exist again? No, this is just hypocrisy and sucking hype and money of the readers. Expensive LUXURY Fashion MUST be creative and thought-provoke, and then all the rest comes after. I feel sad for all of us, TFSers, because most of us fell in love with fashion and photography when it was not as constructed and curated, more elitist, but still felt mysterious, creative, interesting. And to imagine people who grew up with the best, most iconic times of VI, Love, Vogue US and so on, to now be forced to consume whatever is happening in fashion now...