By fashion's lingo today, an 'it' bag is a bag that becomes a commercial hit or celebrity's favorite (nowadays these two seem to go hand-in-hand) the season it debuts. In 2005 we saw the dual rise of Chloe's Paddington and Fendi's Spy, while YSL's Muse dominated much of 2006, with Dior's Gaucho gaining visibility from time to time. While it might have taken Balenciaga or Luella a couple of seasons to garner momentum, now it only takes weeks for an 'it' bag to emerge. If our choices for this season's 'it' bag were confined to bags fresh off the AW06 runway, the various reincarnations of previous hits notwithstanding, then Miu Miu's Coffer is a pretty safe bet, edging out Marc Jacobs' Hudson and parent company Prada's ruched leather designs, unless MJ alum-cum-indie designer Joy Gryson pulls a surprise.
But with Us Weekly and the like rigorously documenting celebrities' overstylized outings, it does not take much creative endeavor to decide which bag is 'it.' For the most part, the making of an it bag has to do with the economy of scale: who has connections with L.A. stylists, who can cast a wide net and parcel out bags to celebs, who can streamline production so that the bags become available (as gifts) as soon as the collections weeks are over. Usually the big players win at the end, and their willingness to cooperate with the press typically ensures that their next creations would attract just as much attention simply by being a contender for the new season. That's why after a hugely successful 2005, both Chloe and Fendi got a head start this year when editrix bandied about the Betty and the B Bag as the next big thing, but I am glad things did not exactly pan out that way.
If I sound jaded about the current state of commercialism in fashion, do not get me wrong. Marketing in a creative business is a thorny question. The literary world and the recording industry have endured it, and fashion just has to plow it through. I relish the time when an interesting up-and-comer has as much of a chance of elevating the awareness of a bag as an established powerhouse. Camilla Belle and Joy Bryant may not measure up to Nicole Kidman or Jennifer Aniston in terms of their celebrity, but their power to arouse curiosity about a bag among the fashion-conscious crowd is just the same. Fashion journalism is fickle, but that is not a total vice here. Also, I am always secretly giddy when a medium-priced bag makes it. I have enjoyed seeing Kooba and Bulga eclipse McQueen's Novak and Jimmy Choo's Romana (though I do think that is a lovely bag) in terms of press coverage, and I hope Gustto, Rachel Nasvik, and the aforementioned Gryson take center stage sooner rather than later.