Alber Elbaz' strength is the nonchalance which he brings to the couture, his clothes are without doubt much more approachable than, say, Stefano Pilati's YSL or Olivier Theyskens' designs for Rochas, which are at times rather elitist.
Alex, I´m quite surprised you are pointing out the exceptional construction of Lanvin clothes, most of what I´ve seen in person looks very disappointing to me, by far too many raw edges going on and sometimes very unsurprising cuts and techniques. Everytime I see a Lanvin jacket hanging on the rack, I wonder for what reason they are asking such high pricetags in the same height as Balenciaga (which are often so heavily darted that they vaguely resemble some sort of a sculpture when they are hanging).