I don’t think it’s a copyright issue.. what are they trying to play? Lady Gaga? Hedi used to feature up-and-coming bands and it worked way better than most soundtracks in fashion shows (credit where credit is due) and I very much doubt it was decimating the show budget. If you’re feeling even stingier, great artists in the train lol..
I think.. 1) not many Jun Takahashis these days.. and 2) the horrid music in most shows comes from the generic, gimmicky taste that has come from the ultra commercial, uniformed direction of fashion. As soon as people get into fashion (as employees, not as an interest only), they feel the need to dive into techno and it goes downhill from there.. then they venture outside the genre for a second and holy s*it.. you might as well just stick to techno and disguise the lack of demands as an abstraction…
But it’s a copyright issue if brands are changing the music from the show when editing the music for YouTube.
I also think that some brands are pro-active on the question and anticipating. Some are small so they aren’t necessarily on people’s radar…
There’s also the sensibility of designers. When you want a particular music, you just want it.
And tbh, when I think about the main sound designers for shows, they uses quite eclectic music. But it’s frustrating when you don’t have the full soundtrack because there’s copyright issues.
On top of my head, I think about a Prada show. The whole soundtrack was 80’s French pop. Who could have thought that even that could have copyright issues. Étienne Daho or Taxi Girl aren’t Lady Gaga or anything but a brand like Prada would rather not pay for it, have a music that channel the spirit of the 80’d instead of the real deal.
But in reality, it’s really rare to have full on hits at fashion shows. And even when there’s a hit, for me it informs so much about the mood of the collection that I want to hear it.
I have in mind that 1950’s inspired Jil Sander by Raf where it went from Michel Legrand to 50 cent. It’s unexpected, it makes you smile. Nowadays where Fashion shows gets sometimes millions of views, I don’t know if that kind of soundtrack would have made it unedited.