Designer of Pearl
Yohji Yamamoto's ethereal jewelry collection with Mikimoto
Thursday, August 02, 2007
What do you get when you take the company responsible for producing the world’s first cultured pearl and cross it with Japan’s premier clothing designer? For starters, truly exquisite jewelry. Yohji Yamamoto’s first foray into fine jewelry—and Mikimoto’s first jewelry collaboration with a designer—results in the poetic Stormy Weather collection.
Composed of three categories, Moon, Drops, and Le Cri, the collection (and accompanying literature) evokes a tempestuous night; a grey sky filled with storm clouds, occasionally punctuated by a piercing flash of lightning. This is mimicked in the jewelry designs: the nocturnal sky is represented in the muted minimalist palette of pale greys, bright whites, and dark blacks—the shades and hues of the South Sea cultured pearls, Black South Sea cultured pearls, and Akoya cultured pearls used in the designs—juxtaposed with flashes of 18K white and yellow gold, silver, black rhodium, quartz, and diamonds. Subdued and understated, the jewelry has an abstract, sculptural, untreated look. The three collections, though distinct from one another, are unified by palette and recurring pearl motif. The collection closely parallels the design aesthetic Yamamoto is known for, embracing his fluidity of silhouette, exploration of dimensions, and minimalist hues. Overall, the effect is organic rather than ostentatious, as natural as the breaking of a wave or interior of a shell.
Based in Tokyo, Paris, and Milan, Yamamoto has been designing for over 3 decades and continues to be a tour de force in the industry with his “firm anti-fashion” outlook, avant-garde vision, love and use of volume, and challenge of existing stereotypes. He is the 1994 recipient of the Chevalier de l’Ordre des Arts et Lettres and the 2005 recipient of Officer in the National Order of Merit.
“I never understand jewelry…” says Yamamoto. This mentality is in part the reason that Mikimoto selected him for this collaboration, to challenge him in a new medium to attain that which he aspires to: reducing creation to nothingness, an unachievable concept but one that drives the designer’s work. On this project, Yamamoto also worked with Parisian artist and designer Annabelle d’Huart, who bridged the gap between designer and jewelry house.
This exclusive collection will be available from November 2007 in Mikimoto and Yohji Yamamoto stores in Europe, the U.S., and Japan (a Yohji Yamamoto flagship is set to open on New York’s Gansevoort Street in winter 2007). Prices for the collection range from $1,550 for the small diamond, 18K white gold, and black rhodium pendant from the Drops collection, to $8,200 for a pendant from the Moon collection, which boasts South Sea cultured pearls, Black South Sea cultured pearls, Akoya cultured pearls, diamonds, 18K white gold, and 18K yellow gold.
I knew that when Mikimoto jewelers teamed up with designer Yohji Yamamoto the results would be interesting and they don't disappoint. The end result is a 29-piece collection called Stormy Weather. As you might suspect from the name, the line is moody and innovative with pieces that evoke both rough weather and a sort of celestial feeling. A necklace features pearls nearly enclosed in with gold discs with different sized openings that correspond to the phases of the moon. The line was unveiled in Paris last week and the International Herald Tribune's Suzy Menkes calls it a " powerful mix of elegance and edge." The pieces range in price from a $1,100 swirling silver cuff to a the moon necklace which sells for $55,000. The line will be available at Yohji Yamamoto and Mikimoto stores starting in November. More pictures of the debut of the line can also be found here.
Designer of Pearl - Yohji Yamamoto's ethereal jewelry collection with Mikimoto
What do you get when you take the company responsible for producing the world’s first cultured pearl and cross it with Japan’s premier clothing designer? For starters, truly exquisite jewelry. Yohji Yamamoto’s first foray into fine jewelry—and Mikimoto’s first jewelry collaboration with a designer—results in the poetic Stormy Weather collection.
Composed of three categories, Moon, Drops, and Le Cri, the collection (and accompanying literature) evokes a tempestuous night; a grey sky filled with storm clouds, occasionally punctuated by a piercing flash of lightning. This is mimicked in the jewelry designs: the nocturnal sky is represented in the muted minimalist palette of pale greys, bright whites, and dark blacks—the shades and hues of the South Sea cultured pearls, Black South Sea cultured pearls, and Akoya cultured pearls used in the designs—juxtaposed with flashes of 18K white and yellow gold, silver, black rhodium, quartz, and diamonds. Subdued and understated, the jewelry has an abstract, sculptural, untreated look. The three collections, though distinct from one another, are unified by palette and recurring pearl motif. The collection closely parallels the design aesthetic Yamamoto is known for, embracing his fluidity of silhouette, exploration of dimensions, and minimalist hues. Overall, the effect is organic rather than ostentatious, as natural as the breaking of a wave or interior of a shell.
Based in Tokyo, Paris, and Milan, Yamamoto has been designing for over 3 decades and continues to be a tour de force in the industry with his “firm anti-fashion” outlook, avant-garde vision, love and use of volume, and challenge of existing stereotypes. He is the 1994 recipient of the Chevalier de l’Ordre des Arts et Lettres and was named an Officer of the National Order of Merit in 2005.
“I never understand jewelry…” says Yamamoto. This mentality is in part the reason that Mikimoto selected him for this collaboration, to challenge him in a new medium to attain that which he aspires to: reducing creation to nothingness, an unachievable concept but one that drives the designer’s work. On this project, Yamamoto also worked with Parisian artist and designer Annabelle d’Huart, who bridged the gap between designer and jewelry house.
This exclusive collection will be available from November 2007 in Mikimoto and Yohji Yamamoto stores in Europe, the U.S., and Japan (a Yohji Yamamoto flagship is set to open on New York’s Gansevoort Street in winter 2007). Prices for the collection range from $1,550 for the small diamond, 18K white gold, and black rhodium pendant from the Drops collection, to $8,200 for a pendant from the Moon collection, which boasts South Sea cultured pearls, Black South Sea cultured pearls, Akoya cultured pearls, diamonds, 18K white gold, and 18K yellow gold.
When the revolutionary of women’s prêt-a-porter and a 114-year-old Japanese jewellery house collide, the outcome was destined to be a tempestuous affair. So it comes as no surprise that the jewellery range resulting from the collaboration between Japan’s forward-thinking designer Yohji Yamamoto and luxury pearl designers Mikimoto should be entitled 'Stormy Weather'.
The 29-piece line is a combination of innovative designs that evoke the atmosphere of rough waters and stormy skies. Yamamoto is no stranger to collaboration, already having worked successfully with Mandarina Duck and Adidas, and has connected with Mikimoto’s ethos of feminine beauty to create pieces filled with a truly romantic sensibility.
Together these two design giants, both synonymous with Japanese culture, have crafted three themes within the range; Moon, Drop and Le Cri. All feature stunning Mikimoto pearls, ranging from striking white to the deepest black, to create a dark and moody feel to the line. The Moon range draws influence from the lunar cycle, where glittering white gold discs capture a look of luminosity. Drop sees pieces replicate turbulent oceans and Le Cri is a more conceptual design which draws upon death as its main theme with stunningly sculptured pendants that draw inspiration from Munch’s ‘The Scream’.
As a whole, the collection has the feel of fluidity with a dreamlike aura that evokes the flowing silhouettes of Yamamoto’s clothing, and in a similar way to his fashion focus, embodies a striking avant-garde spirit that is far removed from current jewellery trends.