Best:
Chanel
Versace
Gucci
Jil Sander
Worst:
Balenciaga
Margiela - Trying too hard, but not enough at the same time.
I'm kind of surprised about reactions on social media even though I shouldn't be. I had no idea online people were so passionate about JPG. The RTW relaunch was already costume store quality before this and I think he captured the very specifically French mischievous sense of humor JPG had despite Duran being Dutch even if there were barely any clothes.
The unanimous praise (not here or from critics/journalists) for Louise's BV debut as best of the season I find strange because for me it was very obvious and loud without saying anything. Nothing from the show told us who she is or will be as a designer there and I'm concerned that the social media hype will reward her more for following someone's footsteps than making her own mark.
Even the set design was too obvious. The Murano glass stools with a Gaetano Pesce vibe are elements that Matthieu brought into the brand. The braided rope (duh) installation was made by an artist that shares the same gallerist as Pesce. Daniel Lee's BV was very successful, but when Matthieu came in he was allowed to do his own thing so Louise should have the same opportunity.