Your Best & Worst Designer Debuts of S/S 2026
- Thread starter Blaiseybabey
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hamburgers
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Best:
Chanel
Versace
Gucci
Jil Sander
Worst:
Balenciaga
Margiela - Trying too hard, but not enough at the same time.
I'm kind of surprised about reactions on social media even though I shouldn't be. I had no idea online people were so passionate about JPG. The RTW relaunch was already costume store quality before this and I think he captured the very specifically French mischievous sense of humor JPG had despite Duran being Dutch even if there were barely any clothes.
The unanimous praise (not here or from critics/journalists) for Louise's BV debut as best of the season I find strange because for me it was very obvious and loud without saying anything. Nothing from the show told us who she is or will be as a designer there and I'm concerned that the social media hype will reward her more for following someone's footsteps than making her own mark.
Even the set design was too obvious. The Murano glass stools with a Gaetano Pesce vibe are elements that Matthieu brought into the brand. The braided rope (duh) installation was made by an artist that shares the same gallerist as Pesce. Daniel Lee's BV was very successful, but when Matthieu came in he was allowed to do his own thing so Louise should have the same opportunity.
Chanel
Versace
Gucci
Jil Sander
Worst:
Balenciaga
Margiela - Trying too hard, but not enough at the same time.
I'm kind of surprised about reactions on social media even though I shouldn't be. I had no idea online people were so passionate about JPG. The RTW relaunch was already costume store quality before this and I think he captured the very specifically French mischievous sense of humor JPG had despite Duran being Dutch even if there were barely any clothes.
The unanimous praise (not here or from critics/journalists) for Louise's BV debut as best of the season I find strange because for me it was very obvious and loud without saying anything. Nothing from the show told us who she is or will be as a designer there and I'm concerned that the social media hype will reward her more for following someone's footsteps than making her own mark.
Even the set design was too obvious. The Murano glass stools with a Gaetano Pesce vibe are elements that Matthieu brought into the brand. The braided rope (duh) installation was made by an artist that shares the same gallerist as Pesce. Daniel Lee's BV was very successful, but when Matthieu came in he was allowed to do his own thing so Louise should have the same opportunity.
tourbillions
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It's one of the most referenced houses in Drag i think.... JPG/Mugler/Mcqueen
Monsieur Cristobal
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Best presentation: Demna for Gucci (La famiglia + the red carpet + The tiger)
Best collection: Simone Bellotti for Jil Sander
Best love letter anybody has personally written to me in years: Dario Vitale ( with the help of John Keats)
Best collection: Simone Bellotti for Jil Sander
Best love letter anybody has personally written to me in years: Dario Vitale ( with the help of John Keats)
MARKDEMAIO
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best Tom Ford
worst Matthieu Blazy
I hope CHANEL has John Galliano on speed dial.
worst Matthieu Blazy
I hope CHANEL has John Galliano on speed dial.
Tom Ford was amazing. But it was Haider's second show, not a debut.
PPP's Balenciaga was good. I see it as an announcement that they were back to the old roots. He will probably show many other looks down the road, but this is a nice pivot and aesthetically pleasing.
My initial reaction was that MB's Chanel was great and Dior was a flop. After a few days, the two really flipped.
I think that much of the Dior issue is proportions and styling. His intentions were good and I think that he can make things work in a few seasons.
MB...I have a slight suspicion that he doesn't understand women who need to work and take care of a family. His offerings are not practical for us in the office or on weekends. The dresses were superb but we peasants don't need them. Perhaps it reflects the owners' arrogance rather than MB's ignorance? Who knows. The only thing my SA picked out for me was a wrap skirt, but then she realized that there was a section of underwear on top of the waist. We both laughed. I can see it at Miumiu, or BV, but not Chanel. But perhaps this is the point. I see no love. I see a revolution perhaps, so, good luck. (I also suspect that my reversion was partly due to an overdone PR campaign. )
Margiela is really painful to look at. I'm squeamish so I can't look at it.
The worst has to be JPG. Gross.
PPP's Balenciaga was good. I see it as an announcement that they were back to the old roots. He will probably show many other looks down the road, but this is a nice pivot and aesthetically pleasing.
My initial reaction was that MB's Chanel was great and Dior was a flop. After a few days, the two really flipped.
I think that much of the Dior issue is proportions and styling. His intentions were good and I think that he can make things work in a few seasons.
MB...I have a slight suspicion that he doesn't understand women who need to work and take care of a family. His offerings are not practical for us in the office or on weekends. The dresses were superb but we peasants don't need them. Perhaps it reflects the owners' arrogance rather than MB's ignorance? Who knows. The only thing my SA picked out for me was a wrap skirt, but then she realized that there was a section of underwear on top of the waist. We both laughed. I can see it at Miumiu, or BV, but not Chanel. But perhaps this is the point. I see no love. I see a revolution perhaps, so, good luck. (I also suspect that my reversion was partly due to an overdone PR campaign. )
Margiela is really painful to look at. I'm squeamish so I can't look at it.
The worst has to be JPG. Gross.
