Your Best & Worst Designer Debuts of S/S 2026

[kasper!]

Best - Jil Sander

Worst - JPG

 

[hamburgers]

Best:
Chanel
Versace
Gucci
Jil Sander

Worst:
Balenciaga
Margiela - Trying too hard, but not enough at the same time.

I'm kind of surprised about reactions on social media even though I shouldn't be. I had no idea online people were so passionate about JPG. The RTW relaunch was already costume store quality before this and I think he captured the very specifically French mischievous sense of humor JPG had despite Duran being Dutch even if there were barely any clothes.

The unanimous praise (not here or from critics/journalists) for Louise's BV debut as best of the season I find strange because for me it was very obvious and loud without saying anything. Nothing from the show told us who she is or will be as a designer there and I'm concerned that the social media hype will reward her more for following someone's footsteps than making her own mark.

Even the set design was too obvious. The Murano glass stools with a Gaetano Pesce vibe are elements that Matthieu brought into the brand. The braided rope (duh) installation was made by an artist that shares the same gallerist as Pesce. Daniel Lee's BV was very successful, but when Matthieu came in he was allowed to do his own thing so Louise should have the same opportunity.

 

[tourbillions]

I had no idea online people were so passionate about JPG.

It's one of the most referenced houses in Drag i think.... JPG/Mugler/Mcqueen

 

[Monsieur Cristobal]

Best presentation: Demna for Gucci (La famiglia + the red carpet + The tiger)

Best collection: Simone Bellotti for Jil Sander

Best love letter anybody has personally written to me in years: Dario Vitale ( with the help of John Keats)

 

[Darko]

Chanel is worst def NUMERO UNO 💯
So far noting in THE BEST category

 

[MARKDEMAIO]

best Tom Ford
worst Matthieu Blazy
I hope CHANEL has John Galliano on speed dial.

 

[Nimsay]

Dario Vitale was the worst.

 

[Caffeine]

Tom Ford was amazing. But it was Haider's second show, not a debut.

PPP's Balenciaga was good. I see it as an announcement that they were back to the old roots. He will probably show many other looks down the road, but this is a nice pivot and aesthetically pleasing.

My initial reaction was that MB's Chanel was great and Dior was a flop. After a few days, the two really flipped.
I think that much of the Dior issue is proportions and styling. His intentions were good and I think that he can make things work in a few seasons.

MB...I have a slight suspicion that he doesn't understand women who need to work and take care of a family. His offerings are not practical for us in the office or on weekends. The dresses were superb but we peasants don't need them. Perhaps it reflects the owners' arrogance rather than MB's ignorance? Who knows. The only thing my SA picked out for me was a wrap skirt, but then she realized that there was a section of underwear on top of the waist. We both laughed. I can see it at Miumiu, or BV, but not Chanel. But perhaps this is the point. I see no love. I see a revolution perhaps, so, good luck. (I also suspect that my reversion was partly due to an overdone PR campaign. )

Margiela is really painful to look at. I'm squeamish so I can't look at it.

The worst has to be JPG. Gross.

 

[Kanzai]

I don’t like this vision of Matthieu for Chanel, I hope the upcoming Metiers D’art will change my mind. But it’s still the best debut for me.

 

[Thefrenchy]

Nobody deserves the "best" title in my opinion, so I'll say I enjoyed Jil Sander and Chanel.

Dior, I'm still on the fence which is very strange for me because I'm a fan of his. Just felt way less focused than the mens and some pieces were literally atrocious.

Didn't care about Loewe, Tom Ford still had this dusty vibe, Bottega and Balenciaga were pitiful non-events. Who cares about Mugler, Carven and Proenza...

Now when it comes to worst, it's definitely an easier task. JPG gets absolute worst as it felt like a bad CSM graduation show. Definitely showed a lack of seniority to take on the job and I'm worried to see what Couture is going to look like.
Disliked Gucci for the laziness of the POV, it was as expected as was AM's Valentino. Demna is a one-trick pony in my books.

If we're already all quite bored now, what is it going to be next season...

 

[ultramarine]

So my picks are:

For best:

Simone Belloti for Jil Sander (was NOT on the list).
So, so strong. He has a point of view, he mixed the commercial and artsy part of clothes and honestly I just cant fault it.
I havent been this excited for a debut since Raf at Dior.
Close second: Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta

For I dunno:
Matthieu Blazy at Chanel
I like him. I really do. The bags were beautiful and it was very commercial but a friend of mine said that he missed the campiness from Karl and their clients can be campy and slightly tacky and after I saw one complain. I can not unsee it.

Worse:
Dario Vitale - Versace. Its too literal, too looking back. Too stale.
Didnt like it.

 

[PDFSD]

Top 4 Worst:

lack of any refinement in cut and concept not going to wait for any improvement ever.
nr 1 JPG
nr 1 Jil Sander
nr 1 Balenciaga
nr 1 Margiela

some concept but cheap lazy vintage
nr 2 Gucci
nr 2 Versace

only reason nr3 monumental stage and soundtrack if not nr2 for sure
nr 3 Chanel

did a lot of homework but gave all the wrong answers
nr 4 Dior

Top 0 Best :
Nothing in top best zero.