Yves Saint Laurent S/S 09 Paris

[helmut.newton]

Agree that Pilati has made the YSL woman way too androgynous and masculine!!

Yves was about creating a strong woman who was comfortable with her sexuality and not afraid of showing it with her wardrobe.

Pilati has muted this sexual aesthetic that Yves was famous for!!

He needs to go back to where he started and imbue his woman with at least a HINT of sexual power.

 

[dior_couture1245]

^^That's what I think...no one's saying that YSL has to be a brand for hookers and hoes...but that doesn't mean the sexuality of the YSL woman should be ignored.

 

[le go garçon 84]

beautiful

 

[le go garçon 84]

Does anyone know if the late M. Saint Laurent approved Pilati? We all know he didn't liked Tom Ford, but i was wondering if he ever commented on Pilati's version of the YSL women

 

[deschanel]

I thought the palette was far too muted, and in some cases, muddy. The outfits I like, I like a lot. I agree with the idea that's been thrown around of comparison. If I was Pilati, considering his predecessors, I would be more concerned about creating and maintaining my signature than to delve too quickly into what, to some, may be known as Ford territory. So, in that sense, I can understand where some of these pieces are coming from. Others ... I'm afraid I'm at a loss.

 

[LagerfeldBoy]

omg he was on such a roll for a long time and this is such a let down. ok it's not ugly but seeing this come from stefano it's boring and just plain. He's done amazing things in the past and those shows compared to this collection shows he's lacking that wow interesting factor here that i've seen throught past ysl collections under him. Don't get me wrong the clothes here and the shoes are great and interesting but are somewhat boring. And i was looking forward to this all day....dissapointment especially compared to last season. I also wouldve expected him to do something very wow since ysl died this year you know.

 

[taz]

Does anyone know if the late M. Saint Laurent approved Pilati? We all know he didn't liked Tom Ford, but i was wondering if he ever commented on Pilati's version of the YSL women

Yves never spoke, but Piere Berge approved him & Pilati is alwyas keeping him updated with next collections & ad campaign concepts...
also Pilati was seen joining Yves circle -Catherine Denuve, Betty Catroux, Loulou de la Falaise & Piere Berge- in several occasions ... while Tom was never in.

 

[kinkexplosion]

Yves never spoke, but Piere Berge approved him & Pilati is alwyas keeping him updated with next collections & ad campaign concepts...
also Pilati was seen joining Yves circle -Catherine Denuve, Betty Catroux, Loulou de la Falaise & Piere Berge- in several occasions ... while Tom was never in.

Then they must really like Pilati

 

[Whitelinen]

I wonder if he's nervous about really tapping into the sexual side of Saint Laurent because not only will he be compared to Yves himself, he'll inevitably be compared to Ford who was nothing if not good at doing sexy. Maybe he feels he can't live up, so that's why, when he does start to crack the icy surface and delve into the eroticism of YSL, he pulls back.

I am always hesitant on calling clothing "sexy", but I guess I do agree with what is said/debated here, although I call it by a different name.

I have never been one to list YSL as one of my favourite designers - but I appreciate many parts of his work immensely. Tom Ford was good at YSL ... but what about Pilati? I do recall liking his very first collections at YSL, but now for many seasons past I have only found it horrible. It's like he keeps on playing with this horrid 80's vibe - plastic accessories, wide silhouettes in neutral colours in shiny fabrics.

This one is no exception. I find it very hard to find that sensuality that I associate with YSL... and why all this 80's vibe, do we really like it? What is Pilati trying to convey with these very samey-samey collections? I'm awfully puzzled when I see collections like these and then hear it sells well. For me personally, beauty is important in clothes, and I see none if it here. Of course beauty is in the eye of the beholder, though.

I do like the sequinned red dress - just like I liked the sequinned trousers for A/W. I wish Pilati would finally embrace the label, and especially since the passing of Monsieur YSL in the summer, would have dwelled more to the past, which is the core, of YSL. A sort of a well-executed tribute collection of all our YSL favourites... that would have been great!

 

[elegantly_wasted]

i like it.

 

[fouroclock]

I'm gonna go as far to say that this doesn't look distinguishable from other collections coming out this season. Not good.

 

[The.Rock.Inc.]

i think he tried to make it sexy--- see those sheer, exposed bra and the back. but it is so subtle and i am getting some sort of old lady vibe in it, must be the colours and the hair.. i prefer an elegant and edgy ysl, i can't hardly feel anything french chic about this I don't know.

some detail shots from style.it

 

[The.Rock.Inc.]

more

 

[dior_couture1245]

....didn't he say he hated seeing bras' in that NYTimes article....

 

[The.Rock.Inc.]

....didn't he say he hated seeing bras' in that NYTimes article....

oh really irony~

 

[Blanche DuBois]

Whitelinen
I totally agree w you
I always find Pilati's clothes are in a very 80's mood...so there's like a tackyness involved, we all know the 80's arent known for being le chic decade
He is certainly very boring and serious about clothing...I loved all Tom ford's collections, they were something to see...
I dont know, I hate conceptualism...I prefer glam glitter and show

 

[Spike413]

A few things:

1. I like this collection, but it's not all that special. Considering the uncompromising conceptual implications of F/W 08, I'm disappointed that Pilati has backed down off his pulpit a bit here. Those vampiric robotrons were an ideal muse for contemporary YSL. Oh, and the black lips? A niche appeal, to be sure, but one that is highly in demand (look at sales of the Pur Black lipgloss). Anyway, this collection only connects to the most philistine aspects of F/W 08. A shame.
2. The shoes are amazing and probably the best thing about this collection. Pilati certainly has a flair for creating and fetishizing unconventional footwear.
3. Does YSL have to be sexy?
4. I see the Balenciaga references, too. They permeate the majority of the looks. I guess it's inevitable. I think Pilati sees YSL moving away from Tom Ford's viscera and towards Ghesquire's conceptualism. Although, he failed to ignite any philosophical fires with what he offers for S/S 09.
5. Tom Ford turns even the classiest of houses into purveyors high-end hooker apparel.

To answer the first; yes, in order to be true to the spirit of the house set forth by Saint Laurent himself, YSL needs to have an undercurrent of sensuality and eroticism. Without it, it just isn't YSL, because the undercurrent of sexual liberation with the outer veneer of elegance and chic is what made Saint Laurent "Saint Laurent".

To respond to the second; that's entirely too subjective for anyone to lay down any proclamations. One person's hooker is another person's libertine. Fun Fact; the infamous 1940's collection Yves did in the early 70's was at least partially inspired by what prostitutes wore during the forties, such as fur chubbies which, up to that point in time, were a look associated with prostitutes, which was part of the reason why the collection was so controversial.

 

[disco54]

^^^^actually wasnt partially inspired by 40s hookers it was totally inspired by 40s hookers , thats what pissed people of then lol , not just the chubbies , the tight printed dresses , the somewhat sl*tty make up, he himself described it as vulgar and said it reflected the times . Its ironic YSL didnt like Ford , because their way of thinking is more similar then it is with YSL and Pilati.

 

[BerlinRocks]

YSL liked Tom Ford only for his ad campains. he used to say Tom knew how to sell ...

i'm not gonna say a word about this collection. but i am really disappointed.
it is not as strong as last season and seasons before. the palette is like dead.
i like some stuff a lot. but general is really not what i was waiting for - though i wasn't waiting for sthg special ....
i just maybe have to wait and see ........ how it will develop in my mind!

god knows i'm really sad to say those words.

 

[dior_couture1245]

(listen carefully at 00:48lol:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1KBhoVlLf_M