Saint Laurent S/S 2015 Paris

[frk-frost]

I wish this would just stop. It's the same everytime - boring, cheap looking (not in the quality) and not original at all. This from the great house of YSL is just so depressing

 

[foreverandnone]

Ready to wear for prostitutes from the 70s and 80s

 

[kokobombon]

From all the 70s inspired collections out there I like this one better because Hedi focus more in disco than in hippie.
That said, I only liked very few pieces... mostly cause they all look so cheap but I guess that´s just a constant with Saint Laurent lately.

 

[Signature10]

This poor atelier... Of course the clothes look well made and are expensive. They are reproducing the thrift shop finds in the way they know and in the budget of materials they have which is high as expected. But if I take a cheap dress and give it to a good product manager to remake does this make me a genius? I don't know anymore....

 

[KKnardi]

Ready to wear for prostitutes from the 70s and 80s

What a vision!

 

[Caffeine]

Ready to wear for prostitutes from the 70s and 80s

that's why i got a little bit of the SVU vibe

 

[Spike413]

I love it. As a few other people have said, this feels like the most "YSL" collection he's done since he started at the house. I like that it's basically taken so many of the iconic things from the archive -- fur chubbies, print, flou, turbans, color, wide leg trousers -- and reworked them in a way that feels youthful and fun. Slowly but surely that's what I've come to appreciate about his collections, that despite whether or not I actually like the look or the mood or whatever, the clothes (and the styling) always have a sense of fun about them. It doesn't take itself too seriously and it doesn't ask anybody to take it seriously. They're fun, playful, sexy, vibrant clothes, and that's sort of it. It's feeling rather than thought.

And I must point out that the people crying out about how tacky/vulgar/tasteless this is are having the exact same reaction that met Yves' 40s inspired collection back in '71, which this collection references in numerous ways. Translation: that tackiness and vulgarity is pretty much the point here.

Funny how Hedi and Tom both landed on the glam rock thing this season...

 

[Not Plain Jane]

From all the 70s inspired collections out there I like this one better because Hedi focus more in disco than in hippie.
That said, I only liked very few pieces... mostly cause they all look so cheap but I guess that´s just a constant with Saint Laurent lately.

for me, i think i prefer it because it looks younger, less hippie/boho, and thus, somehow, a bit newer too.

it's rather prosaic, though isn't it? nothing ground-breaking. nothing poetic. some of it is silly and just bad (the shoes!).

but, having done the requisite complaining, i will admit that i actually really like some of the jackets and dresses anyhow...

so sue me!

 

[disco54]

From all the 70s inspired collections out there I like this one better because Hedi focus more in disco than in hippie.
That said, I only liked very few pieces... mostly cause they all look so cheap but I guess that´s just a constant with Saint Laurent lately.

This is not disco fashion. Its more early mid 70s fashion, which was heavily influenced by early 1940s fashion.

 

[gossiping]

i like a few looks, i really like this whole attitude and the show and what he is doing but i just find the actual clothes, i can never say "i like this whole collection" :z

 

[Versace-Goddess]

This is one of my fave collection. Fresh, old, new, young.
A lot of mix of many eras. I love it . I would wear almost every piece of it.

 

[gazebo]

This is definitely his best collection to date. It's a mix, not a specific theme/era, it's fun and quirky and not too serious, and it channels Yves perfectly.

 

[Alexei]

You know, at first I wasn't sure, but this collection has really grown on me. Of all the designer brands I encounter, I seem most drawn to Saint Laurent. In terms of viewing garments on racks in high-end department stores, I find myself, time and time again - often unknowingly - gravitating toward SL. And I think this comes down to one simple truth: Slimane makes clothing people want to wear.

He's uncompromising in his vision and he has a point of view that people just don't want to come to terms with. So much so, that the Saint Laurent threads are always among the most viewed and commented threads in this forum come Paris Fashion Week. I fail to understand how people consistently expend so much energy bashing him. I think most have interpreted his motives as brash and arrogant - all I see is conviction. He's defining his time at Saint Laurent - is there anything so wrong with that? In 30 years time he'll be lauded for his contributions to the brand, much as Tom Ford's tenure at Gucci is nowadays considered a defining period in the brand's long and storied history.
This brings me to my next point; I wonder, have we ever seen a contemporary designer so loathed, yet so overwhelmingly successful - bearing in mind Saint Laurent profits jumped something like 30% over the course of this past year, while many major competitors reported declines?

 

[FND74]

Finally saw the video to see how the clothes really works because sometimes you lose some energy in picture form. I gotta hand it to Hedi for making lots of clothes with hanger appeal. Most of the jackets, dresses, and pants, when u remove the styling and the models would look amazingly glamorous on a hanger. Lots of sexy LBDs that's a little bit risque but definitely very sexy. So covetable.

Watching here I feel he's just screwing with people by really matching these super luxurious stuff with like really generic looking things. I mean it makes them luxurious stuff seem so dirty which actually worked to convey that nonchalant attitude of the Saint Laurent girl he's after. Almost like offending a religion sort of. An anti burgeoise way of wearing expensive clothes. Like going shopping in your mom's one of a kind couture jacket paired with levi's cut offs, messy hair and flip flops because you dont really care (or pretend not to care). Like knowing how your mom will be mad for it makes it even more thrilling. There's that underlying brattish attitude that I thought really worked.

Best worn with a cigarette in hand. Damn, there were so many nice jackets. The show was lots of fun.

 

[fashionista-ta]

Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015


What is fashion? Several seasons into it, that question again swirled around the exiting throng at Hedi Slimane’s fashion show for Saint Laurent.

Moodwise: cute, young, rock ’n’ roll, a little vulgar, with arch, sky-high platforms that felt dated beyond the presentation’s obvious, intended retro. Clotheswise, an unmistakable merch message: jacket; short, flirty dress or skirt; and for those who dare, short shorts — and a girl’s good to go. Good to go in what were, piece-by-piece, some appealing clothes.

Slimane’s item of the season is a short jacket. Based on two classics — the jeans and motorcycle jacket — it came in a multitude of versions: black leather, green leather, patchwork suede, snake, band-leader red. Ditto his saucy, full-skirted dresses. They came printed with cherries, stars and flowers, and in numerous takes on the LBD. Some charmed; some telegraphed, “Hello, Mr. West Side Highway.”

They didn’t telegraph luxury (though the tailoring and embroideries in particular looked well-made), at least not in the traditional sense. These were kids’ clothes luxed up for the designer customer. Nor did they show any sense of Slimane’s perspective as a designer beyond his continuing literal embrace of retro motifs. And, if the returns from his brief tenure at the house run constant, it will all sell like mad.

So back to the question: What is fashion, fashion at the designer level, runway-worthy fashion? Is it the clothes themselves? Should designers at the highest reaches of ready-to-wear do more than retread? Do they have a responsibility to do more? Or is fashion now about the aura surrounding a designer and/or brand, with the clothes beside the point? After the show, the Saint Laurent p.r. office e-mailed show notes to some editors. It covered invitation artwork (Robert Heinecken); music (an irritating original ditty by Aleide); hair and makeup (Didier Malige and Aaron De Mey) and set design and styling (Hedi Slimane). Typically when a brand bothers with show notes, there’s something included about the clothes — the inspiration, the mood, something. Not this time.

WWD

Understatement of the season.

 

[fashionista-ta]

I don't really know why I'm still writing here (that's probably why this thread keeps growing... because everybody wants to play a verbal ping-pong on this collection.) ...

but here, you can have a look at ALL YSL collections from 1962 to 2002. That might help some of you ...

And as a reminder, I just want to underline the fact that when Slimane was at YSL menswear (some of you probably don't even know), he was interested in the same period (Marrakech, the very late 60s and 1970s, Betty ...).

Slimane has always been a "stylist" (observer) more than a "designer" (maker/doer) ... The difference, to me, is that when he was at Dior Homme, he "created" a (very long-term) trend for men. Now, in the 2010s, it is more difficult to be a trend-setter the way he'd been in the early 2000s (even though he was just looking at what people were wearing in his favorite parisian bar, le Pop'In, and throwing it on the runway).

Regarding Menkes' review, I find it weird what she is writing about cheap clothes turned into magnificent looks as a premiere in Fashion - since it is basically what MJ's been doing for years, non ? (anybody remembers that passage in Prigent's documentary with the velvet sweatshirt ?). I think she is just getting older, and is probably tired of the fashion families feuds ... And just try to find what is good about a collection first. Positivism.

I guess the inspiration from Heinecken is the collage, juxtaposition ? Or is it to be found in Heinecken's biography ?


But let's not overthink this ...

I think Suzy is right in her identification of the approach he's taking.


What Marc has been doing I find a little different. He's taken low-end items, like a thermal shirt, and elevated them (knitting it in cashmere). It's still simple, but the item as it was to begin with was a perfectly respectable thing. There's a difference between low-end and cheap ... I think there's some similarity, but I'm not sure it's exactly the same approach.

 

[KKnardi]

^ yeah, Suzy's review is right on point.

 

[tricotineacetat]

I think that's more coming from a men's customer's point of view but man, I really hate how he's blowing up the lapels of his latest jackets to a point where you could mistake them as some bad-taste, late 1980ies Saint Laurent, Mugler or Montana jackets. Bye Bye to the tasteful sleekness that was so Hedi and made Tom Ford's Gucci and YSL stuff seem vulgar and heavy nezt to it.

 

[Les_Sucettes]

Would i wear some of this pieces. Yes i would, particularly that wonderful silver dress.
Does this have any sort of artistic value. None whatsover.
And the styling is really straight from a 70s tribute act. Its a mockery.

 

[fashionista-ta]

^ I would wear one of these pieces only if the label had been cut out and I didn't recognize it