Stefano Pilati tonight advanced the spirit and graphic modernity of his fall collection, though without extracting the same degree of awe that he did six months ago in the Grand Palais. The cutting of the clothes evoked an Eastern influence—and in a sense the imaginative ground for the late Yves Saint Laurent. The opening jackets, in a black or a French blue cotton/silk jacquard, were drawn from kimonos, and were paired with loose wool crepe trousers with a dropped crotch. There are so many versions of those pants around, so many adaptations, that I cannot think of an adequate word to describe them. But suffice to say that Pilati’s versions—in three lengths—were well-conceived and flattering, with a slim cut through the waist.
Transparency was another theme of the collection, from the open, caged booties to sheer feminine blouses over matching bras. The collection sometimes felt a bit too constrained for a house with an image as sexy as YSL, and there were not enough outfits like a slim black silk faille skirt with a tight matching top, its puffed sleeves sheer and a deep slit in the front that revealed a dark Kelly green bra. That outfit told a lot, I thought—and it pulled away from the almost chaste and occasional arty Orientalism. There were no lurking suggestions of decadence and romance in this collection, and few colors except the green (insipidly done in a sequined strapless jump-dress) and some blood red sequined pieces. The palette was essentially neutral.
I have tried so hard to like YSL pilati but not 1 collection of his , has the finesse of YSL Tom Ford , its always a mixed bag and those over size blazers are hideous along with the basket heels and the color palette is similar to balenciaga fall 2008 i will say that again ,with the blood reds ,dark green and neutrals.
not as strong as last season, but very very good.
he definetly needed to do less structure than the previous seasons. i think he did well to make the clothes more fluid and leave the structure very rigid for the shoes and belts
i quite love it
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