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Share with us... Your Best & Worst Collections of Haute Couture F/W 2025.26
Zac Posen S/S 2014 New York
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Bernadette
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September 08, 2013 New York
By Nicole Phelps
It was announced last week that Charles James will be the subject of next year's Costume Institute show at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. James was sometimes called America's first couturier; he's remembered now for his spectacular ball gowns, immortalized in photographs by Cecil Beaton. If James has a spiritual descendant, it's Zac Posen, whose devotion to occasion dressing is immune to trend. New York is thinking along sporty lines for Spring; other designers Posen's age are vibing on the 1990s. Posen, for his part, borrowed his color palette and floral prints from the Impressionists; his muse this season was Sarah Bernhardt.
More power to him, right? Unfortunately, this wasn't one of Posen's finest moments. Backstage before the show he said he would be presenting "conceptual evening," and described it as "more sculptural" than usual. Exuberant doesn't begin to describe the layered organza and tulle layers of a strapless party dress, or the pronounced shoulders of an architectural draped evening jacket in floral jacquard. Some of the softer dresses, too (in double-face white satin or rose hand-dyed draped tulle), were constructed with a flamboyance that felt out of step—not just with other runways, but also with the red carpets for which most of them are intended. Admittedly, the silk flowers in the models' updos and the harsh lighting weren't doing Posen any favors.
He was on much firmer ground with a comparatively simpler hand-plisséd strapless cocktail number in yellow—all of the plissé dresses were lovely. An ultra-fitted peplum jacket worn with a fishtail skirt struck a similarly modern note. Ball gowns will be in the spotlight at the Costume Institute next May, but these are the kinds of things we hope to see the next time Posen gets on the runway.
Source: style.com
By Nicole Phelps
It was announced last week that Charles James will be the subject of next year's Costume Institute show at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. James was sometimes called America's first couturier; he's remembered now for his spectacular ball gowns, immortalized in photographs by Cecil Beaton. If James has a spiritual descendant, it's Zac Posen, whose devotion to occasion dressing is immune to trend. New York is thinking along sporty lines for Spring; other designers Posen's age are vibing on the 1990s. Posen, for his part, borrowed his color palette and floral prints from the Impressionists; his muse this season was Sarah Bernhardt.
More power to him, right? Unfortunately, this wasn't one of Posen's finest moments. Backstage before the show he said he would be presenting "conceptual evening," and described it as "more sculptural" than usual. Exuberant doesn't begin to describe the layered organza and tulle layers of a strapless party dress, or the pronounced shoulders of an architectural draped evening jacket in floral jacquard. Some of the softer dresses, too (in double-face white satin or rose hand-dyed draped tulle), were constructed with a flamboyance that felt out of step—not just with other runways, but also with the red carpets for which most of them are intended. Admittedly, the silk flowers in the models' updos and the harsh lighting weren't doing Posen any favors.
He was on much firmer ground with a comparatively simpler hand-plisséd strapless cocktail number in yellow—all of the plissé dresses were lovely. An ultra-fitted peplum jacket worn with a fishtail skirt struck a similarly modern note. Ball gowns will be in the spotlight at the Costume Institute next May, but these are the kinds of things we hope to see the next time Posen gets on the runway.
Source: style.com
simple_elegance
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The collection is lovely, certainly better than ones from recent years.
fantastical
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actually I think it is deserved. most of this collection looks like it came from the sales rack at David's Bridal. I don't see any cohesiveness, just many different random ideas of what "soft" is supposed to be.
VersaceVixen009
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Wait was that Coco opening the show?! And I agree fantastical. A collection with the typical objective of making "soft, romantic clothes"
valliaddict
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I will never understand his obsession with satin. Most of these dresses are tortured beyond belief, especially the yellow one that Daiane Contrero is wearing (look #15). I actually think it's nice to see someone who still wants to hold on to classic elegance, but his fabric & styling choices aren't always the best. I wish he'd start using more crepe fabrics. He can create structured garments without all the shiny mistakes being pointed out in each dress.
