1871-1949 Mariano Fortuny

Vintagetextile.com has posted a new Delphos gown that resembles the one from post #25

They used the same discription as post #28
 

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Fortuny silk velvet three-quarter coat hand stenciled with Renaissance-style motifs, c.1920. Label: "Mariano Fortuny/Venise."

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vintagetextile.com
 
Fortuny Delphos Dress
1920s
Mocha brown pleated silk, Venetian beads down each side with stenciled belt, including Mariano Fortuny box.
Good condition, minor discoloration.

doylenewyork
 

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Ballerina Length Fortuny Delphos Dress
Italian, 1930s
Teal/aqua blue, with tan Venetian glass beads at armscyes, bateau neckline on elastic, labeled in selvage: Made In Italy/Fabrique en Italie/Fortuny/depose.
Good condition, areas of loosened pleats, minor discolorations, especially at armscyes.

doylenewyork

 

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Oh Dos :wub: You always bring beauty to my days. Thank you for these pieces, the colour of the last one is perfect.
 
Provenance. The gown once belonged to a celebrated beauty and headline socialite. Through her, I feel a direct connection with the spirit of Mariano Fortuny (1871-1949), because the celebrity was personally acquainted with the great designer. Her name will be provided to the buyer.

The condition is very good. This gown has been repaired under the arms and has slight variation in color and has a spot at the hem. These minor defects, which get lost in the pleats, are reflected in the price.

The length is 57" from the shoulder to the hem. The Delphos is shown on a mannequin with a 35" bust and 36" hip. The pleats expand to fit a variety of sizes.
vintagetextile
 

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Swoon. :heart: I'll be back.... just pulling on this lovely thread! Thanks, DosViolines!
 
85.JPG

Peach silk "Delphos" gown with silk velvet stenciled jacket, c. 1907 - 1910

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Black silk velvet and gold stenciled tea gown, c. 1927

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Silk velvet and silver pigment, c. 1930

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costume.osu.edu . about.com . museodeltraje.mcu.es . modahistoria.com
 
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Cotton velour and violet silk.

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expositions.bnf.fr . storage.canalblog.com
 
Source : mode les grands créateurs, scan by me
anonyme deux modèles fortuny fb

anonyme mrs sloane en robe fortuny fb
 
The pictures are beautiful, but I cannot help but see the similarities to Grés! She even used many pleats in her own work.
 
It's more Issey Miyake than Grès to me. Grès's technique was completely different. The pleats were done directly on the mannequin, and then they were sewn. A few of Fortuny's pleats looked like they have been in some sort of chemical processes because of their irregularity... which is why it made me think more of Issey's work.
 
^La Bourdelique, you're right. I'm not very familiar with Miyake myself, but I just looked at the few pictures we have on TFS of his pieces , and there is a very close resemblance!
 
Fortuny Black Peplos Gown
1930s
With short sleeves, jewel neckline on drawstring, fastening with hooks and eyes at one shoulder, integral tunic with pointed edges, the edges of all trimmed with beige striated Venetian glass beads, including black satin belt stenciled with silver pattern, long silver and black cord for bodice wrapping, and another knotted black cord, size 6-8, the dress labeled in red stenciling in selvage: Made In Italy. Fabrique en Italie. Fortuny Depose.,the belt labeled: Fortuny Dse.
Very good condition, some loosening of pleats at back.
doylenewyork

 

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Fortuny Stenciled Velvet Coat and Evening Bag
1920s
Pale peach, with silver Celtic inspired design, elbow length kimono cut sleeves, tan faille lining, round faille label: Mariano Fortuny/Venise, the evening bag of burnt orange velvet with silver stenciled pattern, marcasite clasp, no label.

The coat very good condition, several minor holes in lining, the pocketbook worn at front corners, water stain at bottom, silk lining frayed.
doylenewyork

 

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Fortuny Sheer Black Silk Caftan
1920s
Of black striated sheer silk with gray stenciled pomegranate pattern, long attenuated slim sleeves, outlined on each side with silk cord, ridged gray Venetian glass beads strung on cord underneath side of sleeve from wrist continuing down both sides of dress to hem, no label.
Good condition, but fragile, some repairs, especially at one sleeve end, one split in front, beginning separation at neck.
doylenewyork

 

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