DosViolines
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Clothing the Body Three-Dimensionally
Mull and Palmer Galleries, September 1, 2005, to October 1, 2006
[SIZE=-1]Anne Bissonnette[/SIZE][SIZE=-1], Curator[/SIZE]
Madeleine Vionnet
(1876-1975)
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Designer, costume conservator and author Betty Kirke has been researching the work of Madeleine Vionnet for over thirty years. She met with Vionnet in 1974 in an effort to understand her extraordinary body or work. Mrs. Kirke was able to examine many gowns in Vionnet's collection and in museums around the world. Fascinated by the technical innovations of Vionnet's work, she observed every garment in detail. Because many gowns had been cut on the bias, gravity had distorted the cloth. As a result, Mrs. Kirke painstakingly measured the warps and wefts of pieces of many gowns in order to un-skew each part and obtain the original pattern shapes. This led to the discovery of Madeleine Vionnet as a master geometrician and to the creation to one of the most original, important and impactful book in the field of costume history: Betty Kirke's Madeleine Vionnet (Tokyo: Kyuryudo Art Publishing Co., 1991).
DosViolines said:Evening dress
by Madeleine Vionnet
France
1930
Silk velvet with pink and purple chiffon streamers
vam.ac.uk
doylenewyorkVionnet Velvet Rose Applique Evening Gown
1938
The halter gown tying at neck, with bare back, five buttons with loops at waist back, the full circle skirt stiffened with horsehair at hem, bodice and skirt applied with brilliant voided velvet clusters of lilac, salmon and magenta roses, size 8, labeled: Madeleine Vionnet /Made In France.
Good condition, some mends along bodice edges, minor alteration, probably for size, at waist, one skirt seam loosely resewn, several replacement buttons.
The dress is from Vionnet's last collection and was originally illustrated in Harper's Bazaar, September, 1938. See Kirke, Betty, Madeleine Vionnet, p.176.