1970s-1990s The Japanese Avant-garde
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gius
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I just like so much that they really play with different textures and shapes with the fabrics. It really gives a fresh look to it and not too showy.
I was noticing there were several mentionings of Belgian designers to these Japanese designers. Are they saying the Belgians are influenced by the Japanese or the other way around?
I think the traditional way of dressing of Africans and people in the Middle East really remind me of these styles, like how they add layers and play with drapery.
I was noticing there were several mentionings of Belgian designers to these Japanese designers. Are they saying the Belgians are influenced by the Japanese or the other way around?
I think the traditional way of dressing of Africans and people in the Middle East really remind me of these styles, like how they add layers and play with drapery.
Honey~Blade
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http://page5.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/e53356713
^found this interesting piece on Y! does anyone know how it works?
^found this interesting piece on Y! does anyone know how it works?
Amazing thread 
Mode Museum (MOMU) Antwerp will present a retrospective exhibition of fashion designer Yohji Yamamoto March to August 2006. It is the 3rd part of a moving not similar exhibition, so far presented at Pitti Immagine Foundation in Florence and the Musée de la Mode et du Textile in Paris. Each museum provides their own direction. With the Antwerp exhibition, you have the chance to try on Yohji Yamamoto's clothes in cubicles set-up in the museum, adding a more refreshing tactile element. Titled Dream Shop, 80 silhouettes, spanning from the late 80s to today, mark Yohji Yamamoto's singular style plus a view of creative collaborations with other artists/photographers, with emphasis on the later period 1995 to 2005. In keeping with YY's rebel outlook, the look of dream shop is contrary, splashed with harsh white neon lights, quite anti to the general conservation methods of textiles of low light and indeed minimal handling. Maso Nihei, innovative lighting designer for many of YY's fashion shows has been asked to create special atmosphere/mise-en-scene. Here is a chance to get an overview of a legend in fashion. (Sharifa Jamaldin)
[http://65.36.211.75/prettypretty/]
Mode Museum (MOMU) Antwerp will present a retrospective exhibition of fashion designer Yohji Yamamoto March to August 2006. It is the 3rd part of a moving not similar exhibition, so far presented at Pitti Immagine Foundation in Florence and the Musée de la Mode et du Textile in Paris. Each museum provides their own direction. With the Antwerp exhibition, you have the chance to try on Yohji Yamamoto's clothes in cubicles set-up in the museum, adding a more refreshing tactile element. Titled Dream Shop, 80 silhouettes, spanning from the late 80s to today, mark Yohji Yamamoto's singular style plus a view of creative collaborations with other artists/photographers, with emphasis on the later period 1995 to 2005. In keeping with YY's rebel outlook, the look of dream shop is contrary, splashed with harsh white neon lights, quite anti to the general conservation methods of textiles of low light and indeed minimal handling. Maso Nihei, innovative lighting designer for many of YY's fashion shows has been asked to create special atmosphere/mise-en-scene. Here is a chance to get an overview of a legend in fashion. (Sharifa Jamaldin)
[http://65.36.211.75/prettypretty/]
.francesca
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thanks for those images, static! oh how i wish i could go to antwerp, if not for this, for many things.
does anyone remember when i said i'd have to read this thread before i could start commenting? softgrey mentioned you'd not see me for 2 weeks. well, it's been a year - and i still haven't gotten to read through this entire thread!
there is so much here...maybe someday.
does anyone remember when i said i'd have to read this thread before i could start commenting? softgrey mentioned you'd not see me for 2 weeks. well, it's been a year - and i still haven't gotten to read through this entire thread!
there is so much here...maybe someday.
softgrey
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OMG estella...!!!...
...
that is a GREAT editorial...
thanks so much for the scans...!!!
...
it seems like that yohji exhibit is travelling around in some form or another....
i can only hope that it reaches these shores at some point...
that would be such a treat...
thanks for the info andn pics static glamour...
next best thing to being there...
...
it's a good question really....
it does seem to be prevalent in japanese fashion design...
perhaps it is something to do with japanese culture..
i have been trying to understand more about this myself...
perhaps some of our japanese members could shed some light on some reasons why they think this might be???...
...that is a GREAT editorial...
thanks so much for the scans...!!!
...it seems like that yohji exhibit is travelling around in some form or another....
i can only hope that it reaches these shores at some point...
that would be such a treat...
thanks for the info andn pics static glamour...
next best thing to being there...
...it's a good question really....
it does seem to be prevalent in japanese fashion design...
perhaps it is something to do with japanese culture..
i have been trying to understand more about this myself...
perhaps some of our japanese members could shed some light on some reasons why they think this might be???...
I'm obviously not Japanese, but this might be a good place to start?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wa_(Japanese)
http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Wikiversity:Japanese_Philosophy
The concept of wa really appeals to me...
But you know, I'm not so sure they are all that deep and conceptual. Obviously their creations can be considered as such, but that lies in the eyes and mind of the beholder. And we want to view them as cerebral, we want to find meaning...
I think great stuff can be created without a clear concept or intention thought out beforehand, or the need to reflect on society. It's just dress-making, after all...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wa_(Japanese)
http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Wikiversity:Japanese_Philosophy
The concept of wa really appeals to me...
But you know, I'm not so sure they are all that deep and conceptual. Obviously their creations can be considered as such, but that lies in the eyes and mind of the beholder. And we want to view them as cerebral, we want to find meaning...
I think great stuff can be created without a clear concept or intention thought out beforehand, or the need to reflect on society. It's just dress-making, after all...
fashionista-ta
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^ Good point, tott 
I think artists in general often aren't fully conscious of the meaning of their work when they create it ... some do start with a premise, or an idea they want to express, but many just create spontaneously out of the swirling mass of all their thoughts, ideas, influences, memories, passions ...
It's not too unusual to hear authors talk about writing some of their books as though dictated by another, although I've never heard a designer cop to this ... of course, novels perhaps tend to be a tad more original that your average garment
Arguable, I know ... but so often we can *see* the inspiration ...
I think artists in general often aren't fully conscious of the meaning of their work when they create it ... some do start with a premise, or an idea they want to express, but many just create spontaneously out of the swirling mass of all their thoughts, ideas, influences, memories, passions ...
It's not too unusual to hear authors talk about writing some of their books as though dictated by another, although I've never heard a designer cop to this ... of course, novels perhaps tend to be a tad more original that your average garment
Arguable, I know ... but so often we can *see* the inspiration ...Fade to Black
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runner said:
Wow...thanks for posting this pic, runner...i love that image, with Yohji and Limi standing there in black and white, holding cigarettes. Yohji looks so cool it hurts and Limi has an ethereal beauty to her.
Hmmm are the Japanese really conceptual? It's a good question, but think Tott is right...it really depends on the individual. Looking at this particular group of designers, in my humble opinion I think Rei is the only truly conceptual one (i.e. defies gender and structural norms intentionally) but I think Issey's forte is innovation of form and texture (creating anew as opposed to defying the past) and Yohji is more just instinctive and sculptural. I think people maybe see them as all conceptual because they all use a language that is radically different from the traditional Western attire. It may also be that since Western attire is not part of Japanese history, we feel free to play around with it drastically. It may also be this conformist society which causes artists to want to rethink tradition in one way or another.
I do think that the somber beauty of wabi-sabi plays a part in these particular "avant-gardists' "design, as seen in the austere colors and aesthetics. However, looking at Tsumori Chisato or even Tao you can clearly see that there is more to Japanese design than the conceptual.
Tott asked me if the Japanese value of perfecting presentation and aesthetics is deeply ingrained in the culture; I would have to say yes. Even today, almost all correspondence, from the smallest business e-mail to the most personal hand-written letter, begins with a line of poetic contemplation on the season composed by the writer. Almost everyone is dressed very neatly and coordinated at the very least, almost all the food is highly professional, you simply don't dream of giving a shabbily wrapped present...just little daily things are very aesthetically done and noticed.
I do think that the somber beauty of wabi-sabi plays a part in these particular "avant-gardists' "design, as seen in the austere colors and aesthetics. However, looking at Tsumori Chisato or even Tao you can clearly see that there is more to Japanese design than the conceptual.
Tott asked me if the Japanese value of perfecting presentation and aesthetics is deeply ingrained in the culture; I would have to say yes. Even today, almost all correspondence, from the smallest business e-mail to the most personal hand-written letter, begins with a line of poetic contemplation on the season composed by the writer. Almost everyone is dressed very neatly and coordinated at the very least, almost all the food is highly professional, you simply don't dream of giving a shabbily wrapped present...just little daily things are very aesthetically done and noticed.
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