Acne F/W 11.12 London

hautechild

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There was a cool insouciance to this collection, which Acne’s creative director Jonny Johansson said was inspired by “the girls in my design studio.” Cool combos included a slouchy gray sweater over cropped leather pants in patches of silver, gold and navy, or an oversized beige polo-neck over a mustard leather mini-skirt with biker-jacket style zippers and belts. But more grown-up pieces such as a long sleeveless wool coat, seemed out of place in this youthful lineup. What worked better were the less studied designs, such as oversized motorcycle jackets in pea green or black leather.

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wwd.com
 
I really like the long leather jackets, but aside from that I barely see any great pieces in the collection :(
Those shiny fabrics are hideous!
 
I love this collection as a whole... although there aren't any looks that stand out to me.
I would love to own the black miniskirt in pic # 5!
 
I love that Olive green leather jacket, and pink blazer. But the rest looks a bit messy. I hate the platformed shoes, they're way too "heavy" and destroy the sleek feeling of the silhouettes.
 
The colours! The chartreuse biker jacket is great. Some of the shapes are clean-lined like Celine but then there's Acne's more funky things too. I really like this look, the sleeveless vest, the shorter leather pants, the longer tunic underneath. Nice use of proportions and colours here:

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copied from above wwd.com
 
I love the first look in post #2. :heart:
Overall though, i was pretty disappointed, considering i was quite excited for this show beforehand! :ermm:
 
really enjoy the colour palette...from the shades of dusky blues and pinks to the shades of foliage,the mossy greens and browns....really gorgeous. the collection as a whole actually is very eclectic.....there's a lot of option here for the kind of stuff acne does. very impressed.
 
what do you guys think of that dominant pant length here?

i feel like it works when it's done in that slimmer silhouette but as soon as there's any additional volume i get turned off by it and the shape just starts looking too boxy to me..

but, even with the slim versions... i'm thrown off by the styling with the socks and sandals...
that's really not working for me...

i think like scott said, overall this collection is eclectic..
some nice pieces here and there but also a bunch of stuff that just doesn't work
 
quite disappointed, previous acne collection is just way much better than this..
 
i like the rawness and the colours! the cropped pants are not a problem for me- it is also perfectly styled here. nude socks look well here, because they shift out of focus in combination with the deep colours and geometric shapes at the top and add a bit of what seems to be ambivalently when looking at the whole for the first time. great!
 
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what do you guys think of that dominant pant length here?

i feel like it works when it's done in that slimmer silhouette but as soon as there's any additional volume i get turned off by it and the shape just starts looking too boxy to me..

but, even with the slim versions... i'm thrown off by the styling with the socks and sandals...
that's really not working for me...


Glad you asked! :lol:

In general, I think cropped trousers only really work with higher waisted, baggy and tapered, or skinny/drainpipe styles.

As soon as there is any kind of volume at the bottom, at all, they can be very unflattering.

Even the width here is too much, IMO.

I would prefer them to be slightly longer, then you could fold the hem over a couple of times and tuck any extra volume in, at the same time, to ensure the bottoms were close to the leg.

So, the answer is, if you want flattering cropped trousers, buy just above ankle length and then just roll them up a bit!

The only way you can, sort of, get around that unflattering look, with a wider cropped leg, is by wearing thick, slouchy socks (or leg warmers) and ankle boots, in a similar colour to the trousers; but, if you do that, you have to ensure that there is a little leg (either bare, or in tights) showing, before the slouchy socks/legwarmers begin.

Otherwise, if you don't leave a gap, you just look as though you have really swollen ankles/cankles!

If you do the above right (and if you're lucky!), you can end up looking rather like a street urchin from Oliver Twist.

Which, depending on your POV, may not be a bad look?

Of course, cropped flares (not quite featured here, thankfully) are the worst - there's no way you can make them look either flattering, or charming, IMHO.

Best you can hope for is to wear them with bare legs, or knee-high socks and glittering platforms and end up looking like a member of Slade. :D



i think like scott said, overall this collection is eclectic..
some nice pieces here and there but also a bunch of stuff that just doesn't work


I agree - pull it apart and there are some really nice pieces; it's just not quite firing on all cylinders, styling-wise, as we see it here.
 
I like the "Modern" woman pictured in this show, without the overrated and overused "
sexiness everywhere else...

some really nice pieces, the off-yellow color is ugy though...
 
I like the inspiration - "the girls in the Acne studio" and, as I interpreted it, making a stylish statement on a lower budget. Feels very Swedish. Nice to see these colours from them as well.
I'm slightly concerned about the pants length since it is an autumn collection. They look the best with bare skin which isn't an option in winter (at least not here in Sweden, and you would think a Swedish brand would consider that). Otherwise I really like them.
Great collection overall.
 
I find this collection to be a very weak one, I don't like the recycling of old models and I'm not a big fan of the fit
 

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