Gareth Pugh F/W 11.12 Paris

[hautechild]

Fashion films — by all means. But there’s still no substitution for seeing the real thing up close, as Gareth Pugh proved Wednesday when he turned back to a traditional runway show after last season’s arty, abstract film screening. The clothes were right in line with what you’ve come to expect from him — strong, sculpted coats; molded leather, outsize architectural collars, all executed to advanced Gothic perfection. The beginning looks struck a latter-day medieval warrior tone with gold zippers that intersected across the bust of a sleeveless dress and plain leather breastplate motifs. It was the Matrix meets Joan of Arc in black leather.

One criticism that’s been leveled against Pugh is that he risks being one note. But after all the black and aggression came a surprise. Color, a bright one! A series of cobalt blue dresses were relatively simple and even pretty, done with flyaway panels of silk that trailed off the shoulders and hips. It was a lead-up to a burst of gold, geometric strips on hooded leather coats or squares on a tight, sculpted dress that channeled glamour, Gothic style.

wwd.com

 

[hautechild]

wwd.com

 

[hautechild]

wwd.com

 

[IloveDiorHomme]

I miss old school Pugh.

When he started with nothing.

 

[hautechild]

wwd.com

 

[purrmeowsqueek]

RIP The days when his collections used to be indistinguishable between seasons

 

[Psylocke]

I don't think it looks bad (except for all that gold stuff towards the end of the collection) but I wish he would find another way to create interesting shapes other than with all that neoprene. The flowy black dresses are lovely.

 

[Salvatore]

Well it's nice and looks well made ....

But.

I swear he is using the same patterns, detailings, cuts, materials - everything - from previous collections. He's very one-note indeed.

 

[Squizree]

I'm such a sucker for this sorta stuff. The menswear appeals to me a lot!

 

[TeeVanity]

nice collection, very tame from what I expected to see.

 

[Crying Diamonds]

I think this section of the market is already covered by Rick Owens and Haider Ackermann.

 

[Inaya]

I wouldn't have such a gripe about his collections falling into a similar pattern each season, except the look isn't one he's invented. it's the same old Rick Owens (who's much better at this style, so why even go there??) look, materials and production and none of the initial magic/theatrics/showmanship that got Gareth recognized in the first place. why so serious, is what I wonder? I reckon he tries too hard to be taken seriously since he got to Paris... but I'd rather be categorized as an immature costume designer who uses trashbag looking materials ... rather than boring or one-note (especially after only 2 years in Paris!).
he had such a knack for theatrics and refreshing elements such as distorting human proportions, and at such a young age. I am not criticizing or trying to be a negative nancy or whatever here, either.. it's more a despondent feeling. I wear his 2006-2008 pieces often still and they're some of my fav things in my closet, so I always hope for the best when checking his new collections.

 

[hautechild]

This doesn't follow on from the absolutely amazing S/S show. The transition into the blue was unexpected and nice, some of those dresses are lovely. But while I love Pugh I'd like to see him retain his "look" but still manage to make some kind of greater progression

 

[VogueParisLover]

I like some of the pieces, mainly from the black and the gold looks. The problem, like you've all said, is that it's all been done before...by Pugh himself, Rick Owens, and a slew of other designers with the similar aesthetics. The blue looks really do nothing for me, them seem to be a last minute sort of thing. However, I kind of like the gold pieces. They are by no means great but a few of them seem hold a certain interest. Overall, I'm not impressed and I hope to see more progression and improvement next season.

 

[maxlinden]

The redundancy of his collection should be over looked by the quality of these fabulous clothes......IN LOVE WITH THIS

 

[soundboz]

I look forward to his collections with less and less excitement every season :-(
The blue is a nice touch but I don't really see his vision progressing from season to season as much as I'd like it to

 

[Tentacl Ventricl]

When on song there's nobody does futuregoth as well as Gareth. Not Rick, not Ann, not Haider, none of them. Gareth is the man. (Yes I know Rick is the mentor but sometimes the pupil may have more talent than the master).

That opening coat is to die for. The cross formed from zips - brilliant. The contrast leather raglan sleeve gives a sporty feel which really works. On the high notes Gareth manages to carry edgy, sexy, youthful and elegant too. That's right there is an elegance about his work.

On the off side this season - the gold, particularly the last few looks. It's just too glam I fear, too much effort. Even makes things feel a touch 80s particularly when with a Montana shoulder. Somehow, if the urge to join in with the trend for all things shiny was irresistable, silver might have been the better choice. Well, for now anyway, it's a bit 'sit back in the chair, purse the brows'. Might warm to it.

And not that it's really an 'off' but I get the impression Gareth might have been quite taken with Louise Goldin's AW10/11. Not evident magpieing by any means but there's just a sense of a similar place. No doubt the influence is circular. One could equally look at that Goldin collection and see shades of earlier Gareth.

And listen, he isn't 'one note' at all. He has a strong aesthetic, a point of view, a signature, but he certainly doesn't stand still, he develops his voice. His last two or three collections have been much more wearable, much less out on a limb avant garde. If anything this season there's too much going on, less notes would have made for a tighter symphony.

Besides the opening coats the geometric paneled pieces and the chiffon are superlative examples of modern design at it's best. Credit where credit's due he's one of the major young talents and given his tender years it's frightening to think of what he can acheive over what I'm sure will be a long and illustrious career. Could anyone say with confidence that Galliano or McQueen were producing better work at equivalent stages in their careers.

You have to remember he's still producing work off a relative shoestring. I'd love to see what he could do given the resources of a major house. Ok maybe not Dior (unless you wanted to seriously reposition it) but if Tisci were to move on from Givenchy he could for sure pick up the baton there.

 

[simple_elegance]

I'm such a sucker for sci-fi inspired clothes. It's the geek side of me.

 

[Not Plain Jane]

This!

wwd.com (copied from above)

 

[eugenius]

Just throwing this out there, but does the description in the opening post "strong, sculpted coats; molded leather, outsize architectural collars, all executed to advanced Gothic perfection. The beginning looks struck a latter-day medieval warrior tone with gold zippers that intersected across the bust of a sleeveless dress and plain leather breastplate motifs. It was the Matrix meets Joan of Arc in black leather." bring to mind more of Thierry Mugler's style, way more than what Nicola's doing?