I miss their de Chirico-esque narrative. But their worldly travelers are moving into new worlds, I suppose. And that's never a bad thing.
Seems like their women are stripping away their twilight mysteries and Magritte-aura to reveal a sun-drenched Moroccan sensuality. Very "The Sheltering Sky" meets "The English Patient". Looks good.
The delicate, breezy cuts are anchored by strong silhouettes that never verge on that girly sweetness that so many designers seem to fall into when doing delicate cuts. The subtle pleats and indigo is genuinely sexy without the flashiness that, once again, many designers fall prey to when attempting to convey sexy. These clothes need a confident woman; and I can envision women of various ages, and even a bigger women, wearing their clothes and looking amazing.
I don't see any gimmicks here: The subtle sand-blasted layers look like any pattern to me, and works wonderfully with their gentle cast of light. The jewelry lends, what I initially thought was a sense of regal Grecian exotica-- all the more appropriate for the multiculturally-rich feel of the designs. The gold pasties remind me of Greek belly-dancers, and I like the humor of covering a high fashion model's nipples.
Stripped-away compositionally, but still culturally layered of a collection.