Valentino Turmoil
Rumors swirling about Alessandra Facchinetti's tenure at the venerable house; Giambattista Valli pegged as possible addition
Monday, September 29, 2008
(PARIS) Alessandra Facchinetti's spring collection for Valentino doesn't show until Thursday, but already, rumors are rampant that her tenure at the venerable house may be short-lived."I heard they are giving her one more show," said a top editor, echoing the words of several other industry insiders. Of course, one more show could mean all the difference for the Italian designer who reached Valentino after a long tenure at Gucci and a brief stint at Moncler.
Facchinetti's first Valentino collection for Fall/Winter '08 was lukewarmly received, with critics addressing the abundance of Valentino staples instead of serious innovation. Her first couture collection, shown in July, fared much better. "She did a great job. This collection was so much more interesting than her ready-to-wear show," wrote The New York Times fashion critic Cathy Horyn. "I thought she completely captured the sense of Valentino but made it more youthful. I can imagine lots of women, young or old, being interested in the clothes."
The decision to hire Facchinnetti, who was Tom Ford's longtime lieutenant at Gucci and succeeded him as creative director of women's wear for two seasons, was made by Permira, the London-based private equity firm that bought a majority stake in Valentino Group SpA in May 2007.
"Alessandra," said a well-placed Valentino insider, "paves the way for Valentino's successor to 'save' the iconic house." As for that successor? Talk has centered squarely on Giambattista Valli, another beloved Italian designer with an abundance of Valentino-esque aesthetics and a growing celebrity following. "He makes perfect sense," said one luxury retailer. "After all, we have to sell these clothes."
While a Valentino spokesperson would not comment on Giambattista Valli, she referred to the rumors that Thursday's show could be Facchinetti's last as "inconsistent."