MILAN
Belts are back as a key accessory in spring collections now hitting store floors.
According to A.I.M.P.E.S., Italy's association of leather goods manufacturers, from January through August, exports of Italian belts rose by 24.3 percent to $27 million against the same period in 2004.
Chanel reported a 10 percent increase in belt sales;
Armani, a 15 percent hike, and
Dolce & Gabbana, a 28 percent jump.
Carla Sozzani, owner of the
10 Corso Como store here, said accessories were the driving force behind business these days and sales of belts this spring are expected to be brisk.
"We have to thank [Miuccia] Prada, who started using belts over dresses and coats, making them more versatile," said Sozzani. "Belts are great with jeans or to make a look more feminine."
Elizabeth Kanfer, market director for accessories at
Saks Fifth Avenue, described the belt business
"as going from nonexistent to tremendous."
"The trend started with fall and we're expecting a great spring season," Kanfer said. "Belts have become like pieces of jewelry because there are so many different styles. The spotlight is moving down from the neck to the waist because belts are easy, pretty and trendy."
She said Saks would dedicate more display space in some of its stores to belts.
Jovanka Novkovic Davies, a leather goods buyer at
Harrods in London, said she had increased her budget for belts from each of the store's brands for spring.
"This is a particularly strong belt season because, from wide to skinny, waist emphasis is key," said Davies. "I'm particularly excited about Alexander McQueen's embossed leather belt."
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Gucci spokeswoman noted that consumers' continued
interest in logos has turned belts into an immediate and accessible accessory with a distinct designer mark.
"It's not by chance that our bestsellers are the double-G logo for both the regular line and La Pelle Guccissima, and styles with the green-red-green webbing," she said.
Armani is banking on its logo belts and expects the
GA logo belts and the Giorgio buckle belt to sell well.
Besides black,
Dolce & Gabbana's best-selling belts include
colored patent leather styles and designs made from exotic skins in fuchsia, red and yellow. All the belts feature precious details, especially the brand's
20th anniversary belt, a thick calfskin style with a huge celebratory buckle sprinkled with Swarovski crystals.
"Belts allow women to personalize a look or add a touch of color," said Stefano Gabbana. "They can be matched to other accessories or to the clothes for a perfect look."
At
Fendi, belts adorned many of Karl Lagerfeld's clothes. The season's top style is the
B Fendi belt that features a bold, rounded buckle similar to the ones on the
B Fendi bag crafted in black patent, white canvas and sheer plastic.
"Similar to the bags, I designed belts that are simple yet important and that stand out even without spotlighting the logo," said
Silvia Venturini Fendi, creative director for accessories. "Belts, like the rest of Fendi's accessories, are recognizable for their details, materials and different methods of craftsmanship."
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Chanel spokeswoman cited fashion's greater focus on the waist as a generator of the belt trend and listed as top sellers those belts featuring the house's iconic symbols, such as
chains, embroidered fabrics and charms.
"There is a lot of growth potential in this category at Chanel," she said.
Versace paired denim and python in
midnight blue for its featured belt styles.
In the company's remodeled Milan boutique, an example of the brand's new international store concept, an entire corner is dedicated to women's belts. The backlit display features white leather shelves to showcase the wares.