Ann Demeulemeester S/S 2022 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[MulletProof]

who's designing there now?

It looks beyond miserable.. like someone glanced over S/S 2004 and thought 'okay so it's basically black and white and a bunch of hanging strings and badly flat ironed hair, got it' and came up with this within a day. The white tanks in nearly every look just scream defeat, or lack of interest. Is she still able to just close this label or at least stop the shows? it does such a disservice to her legacy.. she made poetry out of clothes, and this is just some... Levi's-sponsored 'mall fashion show' at Target.

And 'aimer, c'est agir' on the models' face is too ironic but.. woke/dior enough, now how about you understand and appreciate something so you can love it maybe, and then you act.

 

[RedSmokeRise]

Believe it's still the in-house team?

Sebastien is missed even if his womenswear sort of fell off towards the end of his tenure ....

At this point they should just close this.

 

[MulletProof]

^ I see. Well they’re definitely not the kind who operate just fine without a boss, this is one hell of an incompetent mess.

I don’t miss Sebastien one bit, he’s the one that immediately relaxed the standards and started to water everything down in order to make it really simplistic, commercial-friendly and sometimes so corny in the process. This collection doesn’t even come off as disrespectful as it really is thanks to the gradual erosion he carried out during his tenure.

 

[CholoChic]

Maybe there is an amazing story behind those cothes but it looks boring, they added some stripes to make it interesting nd trendy.

 

[Machinegumm]

This does not bode well.

 

[bc collector]

I think Antonioli (the new owner) will nominate a new creative director soon, for now he's been busy restructuring the flagship in Antwerp and getting production and distribution in place. So, it's kind of early to make a judgement. I think both Ann and her husband are being consulted with the new course, that's something to appreciate.
In all honesty, I don't think that even Ann's work, in her last few seasons, was particularly remarkable, the collections moved on by imperceptible variations, maybe because her brand has always been less about novelty and showyness and more about a certain mood and a subtle sensuality conveyed by fabrics. But I am curious all the same to see what the new boss has in store and whether or not he will respect the niche aesthetic of the brand, modulating his expansion plans accordingly.

 

[ah ah]

Did they just transfer the fall collection from the video to the catwalk? It looked exactly the same + some strings... The only thing on point was the casting (almost the same as in the video tough)

 

[jeanclaude]

The stylism makes it look like a diffusion line trying to copy from Yohji Yamamoto.

 

[Overindulgence]

Looks like a Helmut Lang and Yohji Yamamoto hybrid. The casting was nice though.

 

[YohjiAddict]

Yohji Yamamoto F/W 06 meets Ann's S/S 04, executed by someone who clearly doesn't understand one thing about what makes those designers' clothes so powerful. As shallow as collections come...the construction, which is very Ann Demeulemeester X Target, just adds salt to the wound.

 

[Nomar]

The big hats and hair were a terrible idea.

 

[SophiaVB]

My understanding is that Antonioli is consulting with Ann & bringing the quality, production & TOV back up to the standards they were previously. So, I don't think this was meant to be a "creative" collection but rather to reintroduce the staple pieces the label was known for. (Believe there will be a "core" collection going forward). That being said, I think they could have just declined to show until they had something ready or they should have leaned into the "new era" and made it an actual moment. This is a bit depressing.

 

[FashionMuseDior]

Black and white is so played out at this point, I'm always here for some color which I did not get from this collection. I wish they would've just went all the way in with the belts' odd placements.